[hawk02]

If you haven't seen this video, it raises some serious questions regarding the performance of these supposedly after-market cold air intakes.

I know quarter-mile runs versus track laps are like comparing apples to oranges. However, it makes perfect sense to me that the OP would want the largest quantity of the coldest air possible going into the engine. I'm just skeptical that can be achieved based on the design of the Roth-Fab.

[JSH]

If you haven't seen this video, it raises some serious questions regarding the performance of these supposedly after-market cold air intakes.

I know quarter-mile runs versus track laps are like comparing apples to oranges. However, it makes perfect sense to me that the OP would want the largest quantity of the coldest air possible going into the engine. I'm just skeptical that can be achieved based on the design of the Roth-Fab.

I watched this video and knew it was on the right track when he mentioned that the BG with all of its gaps takes in a lot of engine compartment air, which is 120F+ versus 45-75F ambient (here). This is why I've sealed all the gaps in the intake area. Temps have come way down. And I'm doing a ram air snorkel, removing the rain/snow blocker behind the upper grill and driver's side headlight, etc.

One question I now have is, is there a closed-air box similar to OEM that can fit over my current 6" inlet tube?

[JSH]

Originally Posted by hawk02

If you haven't seen this video, it raises some serious questions regarding the performance of these supposedly after-market cold air intakes.

I know quarter-mile runs versus track laps are like comparing apples to oranges. However, it makes perfect sense to me that the OP would want the largest quantity of the coldest air possible going into the engine. I'm just skeptical that can be achieved based on the design of the Roth-Fab.

I watched this video and knew it was on the right track when he mentioned that the BG with all of its gaps takes in a lot of engine compartment air, which is 120F+ versus 45-75F ambient (here). This is why I've sealed all the gaps in the intake area. Temps have come way down. And I'm doing a ram air snorkel, removing the rain/snow blocker behind the upper grill and driver's side headlight, etc.

One question I now have is, is there a closed-air box similar to OEM that can fit over my current 6" inlet tube? [/QUOTE]

[Dynamical]

About 10-12 years ago I had a SSRA CAI on my old 4thgen. Tried it at the track. then took it off. Tried it at the track. Just speaking of cooler IATs, the car was more consistent in the 60' and over all with the 1/4 time was a couple tenths faster. I watched my IATs and the car just sitting still brought in cooler air with the CAI and that is why I believe the 60' was more consistent/lower. Watching IATs after the car was rolling read lower also due to the direct path to available cooler air. So FWIW, I learned from experience cooler IATs is defiantly a plus.

[DangerZL1]

The 4th gen CAI filter location outside of the engine compartment and behind the lower bumper cover was ideal. I had one on mine and it made a noticeable difference in performance.

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by DangerZL1

The 4th gen CAI filter location outside of the engine compartment and behind the lower bumper cover was ideal. I had one on mine and it made a noticeable difference in performance.

I think it’s fair to say an NA car would benefit much more than a blower where the air is getting compressed and pushed through an intercooler.

[CamOnlyJabroni]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

At power levels that typically go hand-in-hand with Big Gulp installations, the airflow is much more important than IATs are. That air is compressed and is significantly hotter leaving the rotor pack (Boyle’s Gas Law), then goes through an air-to-water intercooler which removes a large amount of temperature, probably 60-80 degrees or more (maybe TooHighPSI will chime in with his experience). Five or ten degrees on the IAT inlet is trivial. The much bigger issue is the lack of airflow to the filter area at big horsepower levels. I actually removed the BG insulation strips from mine and gained nearly a full MPH on back to back runs at the strip. I’ll be coming up with something to get serious airflow to the filter this winter…the BG setup is a hold up at my power level. Again, at 700-800 WHP it’s not a problem, but as you approach and exceed 1K WHP, the BG needs help. Just my humble opinion of course.

Looks like I need to remove the rubber strips off mine then. Will get a log before and after so I can review data. My vette has the Cordes 5” intake that runs a K&N RU-2805XD filter. It’s not very big in size and seems to work fine. That car hits 125lb/min on airflow.

[DangerZL1]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

I think it’s fair to say an NA car would benefit much more than a blower where the air is getting compressed and pushed through an intercooler.

Good point. The 2012 ZL1 also picked up over a pound of boost with a RotoFab due to the restrictive factory air box. I think GM did a much better job with the 6th gen air feed. I need to at least remove the snow blocker from mine. Eee

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by hawk02

If you haven't seen this video, it raises some serious questions regarding the performance of these supposedly after-market cold air intakes.

I know quarter-mile runs versus track laps are like comparing apples to oranges. However, it makes perfect sense to me that the OP would want the largest quantity of the coldest air possible going into the engine. I'm just skeptical that can be achieved based on the design of the Roth-Fab.

Originally Posted by JSH

If you haven't seen this video, it raises some serious questions regarding the performance of these supposedly after-market cold air intakes.

I know quarter-mile runs versus track laps are like comparing apples to oranges. However, it makes perfect sense to me that the OP would want the largest quantity of the coldest air possible going into the engine. I'm just skeptical that can be achieved based on the design of the Roth-Fab.

I watched this video and knew it was on the right track when he mentioned that the BG with all of its gaps takes in a lot of engine compartment air, which is 120F+ versus 45-75F ambient (here). This is why I've sealed all the gaps in the intake area. Temps have come way down. And I'm doing a ram air snorkel, removing the rain/snow blocker behind the upper grill and driver's side headlight, etc.

One question I now have is, is there a closed-air box similar to OEM that can fit over my current 6" inlet tube?

I have hated those Roto-shit intakes since I first got this car and looked to see what was available for them. Their setup always did scream "K&N style hot air intake" with a larger than stock tube at the MAF to me as they come from RF direct. Numbers produced on dynos does not equate to true on the road performance, which is why I always took the dyno queen results with a grain of salt.

This is also the second time I have seen someone talk about how it indeed proves to be a hot air style intake so it only further solidifies my initial thinking on this thing compared to the stock air box. I've been running an AEM dry flo filter on the stock air box since I got it and if I was looking for supercharger sound, I'd be more inclined to shoot for a lid before an intake or just suck it up and deal with the added whine all the while compromising performance for added noise.

[CalgaryZL1]

Also not a fan of open air box, that’s why I chose the elite over the others. It has quite a large surface area filter.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by CalgaryZL1

Also not a fan of open air box, that’s why I chose the elite over the others. It has quite a large surface area filter.

I like it, but they don't make a 6" intake. The best I an do is insulate and seal-up mine. I've considered running the 6" intake tube up to the stock gasket.

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by JSH

I like it, but they don't make a 6" intake. The best I an do is insulate and seal-up mine. I've considered running the 6" intake tube up to the stock gasket.

Is the RotoFab 6" past where the filter clamps on? I believe it gets smaller as it goes toward the TB.

I know projects are fun and its nice to think you are doing something unique, but just as a reminder, this is a pic of my car on the day that it ran 8.20 at 173 MPH in ~1k DA. The filter never came off. All I'm saying is, no reason to overthink this.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

Is the RotoFab 6" past where the filter clamps on? I believe it gets smaller as it goes toward the TB.

I know projects are fun and its nice to think you are doing something unique, but just as a reminder, this is a pic of my car on the day that it ran 8.20 at 173 MPH in ~1k DA. The filter never came off. All I'm saying is, no reason to overthink this.

The first thing I think of with your car here is that if it had had cooler air to the throttle body it could have been an 810 etc. It's all about air density. That's why we measure density altitude every 10 seconds at the racetrack to help predict what the car will run. I tend to overthink everything. It's sort of what I do

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by JSH

The first thing I think of with your car here is that if it had had cooler air to the throttle body it could have been an 810 etc. It's all about air density. That's why we measure density altitude every 10 seconds at the racetrack to help predict what the car will run. I tend to overthink everything. It's sort of what I do

Let me put it a little differently, I was able to crack the stock LT4 cylinder wall without ever worrying about the placement of the filter or bell mouth. LME rates the stock block built short blocks at 1400 RWHP on turbos, which doesn't take into consideration parasitic loss of blowers. It happened the first time I tried to run the all in pulley and intake setup, thus the reason it has a different engine now.

From the setup in the picture we changed pulley's for an additional 1.5 psi, added the bell mouth 1.5 psi more, and then went to a larger intake with integrated bell mouth for another 1.5 psi. So from when it ran that pass, its already making ~4 psi more in worse air - same location of intake, albeit the headlight is now removed.