[pcobbsm]

Anyone got pics of how to disconnect the magnetic shock sensor? It's got a little red tab on it that looks like a locking mechanism, but raising it doesn't loosen it up or allow me to disconnect it.


I'm putting in the Ground Control camber plates.



Thx,


Paul
2016 Camaro SS

[Move_Over]

Originally Posted by pcobbsm

Anyone got pics of how to disconnect the magnetic shock sensor? It's got a little red tab on it that looks like a locking mechanism, but raising it doesn't loosen it up or allow me to disconnect it.


I'm putting in the Ground Control camber plates.



Thx,


Paul
2016 Camaro SS

It slides out first, then you’ll be able to push the tab in.

[carguy55]

My VORSHLAG CAMBER PLATES are for sale. Never been used. PM if interested

[davidwarren]

I just got these in and hope to have them on by this weekend.

[20Bluezl1]

Bringing this thread back, I was wondering if these camber plates are worth the investment. Is it easier to switch from street to track alignment? I have a Zl1 non 1le and I'm running Apex wheels with 1le specs and 3r.

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1

Bringing this thread back, I was wondering if these camber plates are worth the investment. Is it easier to switch from street to track alignment? I have a Zl1 non 1le and I'm running Apex wheels with 1le specs and 3r.

They will make it super easy to switch back and forth from a street to track alignment. The only caveat is that your toe also changes a bit when you change camber: more negative camber also means more toe out. That can work in your favor, though. You also get two discrete caster settings, whereas caster is not adjustable at all from the factory.

[Rodan]

It isn't as simple as just moving the camber. Switching track<>street alignments still requires an adjustment to toe, and there is no 'middle ground' setting that will work with both street and track settings.

That said, the camber plates work. They allow you to get enough camber for the track, and to do so without clearance issues between the wheel and strut.

[Dabjbr]

Originally Posted by Rodan

It isn't as simple as just moving the camber. Switching track<>street alignments still requires an adjustment to toe, and there is no 'middle ground' setting that will work with both street and track settings.

That said, the camber plates work. They allow you to get enough camber for the track, and to do so without clearance issues between the wheel and strut.

So are you getting a shop to align after every camber change or do your own adjustment, string alignment, or whatever?

[Rodan]

Originally Posted by Dabjbr

So are you getting a shop to align after every camber change or do your own adjustment, string alignment, or whatever?

Since our car was only an occasional HPDE car, I had a shop align it to a moderate track alignment and left it there. It was aggressive for the street, and eventually wore the inside tire shoulder over 10k+ miles, but I was willing to live with it.

[Dabjbr]

Originally Posted by Rodan

Since our car was only an occasional HPDE car, I had a shop align it to a moderate track alignment and left it there. It was aggressive for the street, and eventually wore the inside tire shoulder over 10k+ miles, but I was willing to live with it.

Thanks bud!

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by Dabjbr

So are you getting a shop to align after every camber change or do your own adjustment, string alignment, or whatever?

Shop did the alignment on my STREET settings of -2.2 degrees camber on the front and -2.0 degrees camber on the rear. When I go to the track I adjust the front camber to MAX setting on plates which is about -3.6 degrees camber. Dont worry about TOE IN TOE OUT settings at track setting if you are good on the street setting. My tires are wearing GREAT. I DO ROTATE front to rear every 4K miles but with 12K miles on tires and maybe 12 track sessions I still have 60% left. MS 4S 305 30 19 all the way around with APEX SM-10 19 x 10.5 wheels ET22. Tire wear is EVEN across the face of the tread.

[h018871]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

Shop did the alignment on my STREET settings of -2.2 degrees camber on the front and -2.0 degrees camber on the rear. When I go to the track I adjust the front camber to MAX setting on plates which is about -3.6 degrees camber.

Very similar to how I'm currently set up.
I have have the plates in the rear (increased) caster position.
Street: Front camber -2.1, total toe (in) 0.2, rear camber 2.0, total toe (in) 0.12
For the track I use 2 options: I measured these on an alignment rack
1) front camber to -2.5, total toe moves to -0.05 (out)
2) camber to -3.2, total toe moves to -0.48 (out). This is quite a bit so the car "wiggles" slightly under hard braking, but turn-in is fantastic. When in this setting, I get wear on both inner and outer sections of the front tires.

I choose option 1 or 2 dependent on the track and direction

[Texan4iu]

Thank you so much for these instructions. After watching a video or two & having these step by step instructions handy, I installed my plates the other night. I'm no BF Goodrich mechanic, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night. LOL!

In all seriousness, I appreciate you more than you know.

[QUOTE=Move_Over;10522827]DIY Write up. Sorry no photos. I get 2-3 photos in and forget to take more. So my DIY's are always just words. If anyone has any questions or any steps are unclear feel free to ask. If you mess your car up, injure yourself, die, lose a 10mm I am in no way responsible
Important tools: BFH (big effin hammer), BFBB (big effin breaker bar) 1/2 impact wrench, good socket set, McPherson style spring compressor, floor jack, good jack stands, open-ended 18mm wrench and most importantly common sense. If you do not feel comfortable as you read through these, take it to a trusted shop.

1: Set Parking Brake

2: If you don't have air or an impact to take off lugs, crack the lug nuts loose before raising the car.

3: Jack the front end up and support the front end using appropriate jackstands. Do not do one side at a time using a floor jack. Make sure the front end is at a medium/high height, when you remove/lower the struts that will make more sense.

4: Remove wheels, when I am on jackstands I always throw the wheels under the vehicle for emergency purposes.
Important, make sure to remove the MRC ride heigh sensor arms from the control arm, if you do not, you risk overextending the sensor and breaking it

5: Remove both 18mm endlink nuts at the strut end. This may take holding in place with a 5mm hex wrench. Swing the endlinks out of the way.

6: Unclip brake hose, 10mm brake hose bracket, and ABS clips from the control arms. This will allow you enough slack to drop the hub down and pull the strut assembly.

[Ummpwr]

Just installed my set last night.

Very nice product 👍

I didn't even need to use a spring compressor, just loosen the top nut very slowly and then have one person press down on the spring while another starts the top center nut.

Anyway, I'm maxed out with the camber plates setting and close but not quite maxed out on the strut adjustment.

Could probably get to -4.0 if wanted to bit at -3.5 front camber now.

What camber are others running for CAMC Autox?

Eric