[Anti_venomSS]

So I have decided to say bye to the factory warranty and go ahead and start building my car I am torn between the P1x and D1x Prochargers. I am thinking to keep the build super simple (for now haha). D1x Procharger stage 2 kit w/ Race bov on 10lbs, Lt4 fuel setup, tune and MT ET Streets. Hoping for 650whp.

I really want to keep the car super quiet and as much as a sleeper as possible. Would it be a terrible idea to keep the factory headers/exhaust? I realize I will lose power. Would 650whp on 10lbs be feasible for this build?

[Drsagacity]

Congrats on your build...welcome to the dark side.

I haven't had my Procharger for a few years, so will let the experts respond. Looking forward to watching your progress.

I seem to recall Pray had a car setup with the P1x running 650whp. Off the top of my head it seems like most of the cars run headers over 600whp. I do know that Laynlo ran his completely stock motor up over 700whp with the manifolds, but he also had alky injection going.

[MR 45TH]

That plan should get you where you want to be. No it’s not a terrible idea since these factory exhaust do flow pretty well, however like you already know you will sacrifice some power. I also still run factory exhaust.

[Anti_venomSS]

Originally Posted by Drsagacity

Congrats on your build...welcome to the dark side.

I haven't had my Procharger for a few years, so will let the experts respond. Looking forward to watching your progress.

I seem to recall Pray had a car setup with the P1x running 650whp. Off the top of my head it seems like most of the cars run headers over 600whp. I do know that Laynlo ran his completely stock motor up over 700whp with the manifolds, but he also had alky injection going.

Thanks dude! Super excited to get everything sorted out!

[Anti_venomSS]

Originally Posted by MR 45TH

That plan should get you where you want to be. No it’s not a terrible idea since these factory exhaust do flow pretty well, however like you already know you will sacrifice some power. I also still run factory exhaust.

Nice! Good to know that other people have also done this. Did you go with the Helical gears on your procharger?

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Drsagacity

Congrats on your build...welcome to the dark side.

I haven't had my Procharger for a few years, so will let the experts respond. Looking forward to watching your progress.

I seem to recall Pray had a car setup with the P1x running 650whp. Off the top of my head it seems like most of the cars run headers over 600whp. I do know that Laynlo ran his completely stock motor up over 700whp with the manifolds, but he also had alky injection going.

Pray has tuned 2 P1x cars up around 780-800whp now. That being said he would suggest a D1x minimum for reduced IATS.

[Dysan911]

I wanted to keep mine quiet as well but let me tell you about that Race bypass!. It's LOUD!. dead giveaway.

Also I ran into the stock Cats being a bottleneck & contributing to some knock so I replaced the stock manifolds with catless ARH LT's and wow what a difference. I would say as long as you maybe get some Cat delete pipes at the minimum you'd be fine at that power level.

[Anti_venomSS]

Originally Posted by Dysan911

I wanted to keep mine quiet as well but let me tell you about that Race bypass!. It's LOUD!. dead giveaway.

Also I ran into the stock Cats being a bottleneck & contributing to some knock so I replaced the stock manifolds with catless ARH LT's and wow what a difference. I would say as long as you maybe get some Cat delete pipes at the minimum you'd be fine at that power level.

Aw man I don't want to be a ricer with a loud bov Thanks for the response! What do you mean it caused knock?

Also, 2 questions - Has the catch can helped with the oil issue? Why did you go with 1 7/8 and not 2" LTH?

[Dysan911]

Originally Posted by Anti_venomSS

Aw man I don't want to be a ricer with a loud bov Thanks for the response! What do you mean it caused knock?

Also, 2 questions - Has the catch can helped with the oil issue? Why did you go with 1 7/8 and not 2" LTH?

I wouldn't say it sounds like a ricer by any means. Imagine a lear jet taking off when you're 2 or 3k RPM and holding. Then floor it and the bypass snaps shut and all you hear is the exhaust and the procharger spooling. Let off and it opens the bypass and that rushing lear jet sound returns until you drop down below 2k RPM.

The other alternative is just go with stock procharger bypass valve. That one is quiet but just be absolutely sure about it. Research it, etc because many have regretted they didn't go with the race bypass.

So regarding the KR I was getting. I have a smaller 3.7 pulley on my P1 so my boost was almost 11lbs at redline. Not sure how efficient the P1 is at that boost level but I bet if you went with the D1 you'd be starting off on the right foot. I believe the way it works is the additional boost creates more heat and so my timing had to be dialed back quite a bit to resolve a few degrees of knock at the top. My tuner said if I eliminate the cats it will drop the boost down a bit but the LT's would more than make up for that with better timing and better efficiency in getting the air in and out of the motor. They really woke up the top end very noticeably.

I went with the 1 7/8's because I wanted 600-650 and felt the 2in were just overkill for my power level and also didn't want to run into any chance of rubbing the steering column. I also wanted to retain a little low end torque. If my goal was 800+, there would be no doubt that 2in is the way to go.

The Oil catch can is a must once you see the amount it catches and be sure to either go with a metco valve cover breather or a vented catch can so you don't blow out the front lower crank seal.

[Eyefixstuff]

Originally Posted by Dysan911

I wouldn't say it sounds like a ricer by any means. Imagine a lear jet taking off when you're 2 or 3k RPM and holding. Then floor it and the bypass snaps shut and all you hear is the exhaust and the procharger spooling. Let off and it opens the bypass and that rushing lear jet sound returns until you drop down below 2k RPM.

The other alternative is just go with stock procharger bypass valve. That one is quiet but just be absolutely sure about it. Research it, etc because many have regretted they didn't go with the race bypass.

So regarding the KR I was getting. I have a smaller 3.7 pulley on my P1 so my boost was almost 11lbs at redline. Not sure how efficient the P1 is at that boost level but I bet if you went with the D1 you'd be starting off on the right foot. I believe the way it works is the additional boost creates more heat and so my timing had to be dialed back quite a bit to resolve a few degrees of knock at the top. My tuner said if I eliminate the cats it will drop the boost down a bit but the LT's would more than make up for that with better timing and better efficiency in getting the air in and out of the motor. They really woke up the top end very noticeably.

I went with the 1 7/8's because I wanted 600-650 and felt the 2in were just overkill for my power level and also didn't want to run into any chance of rubbing the steering column. I also wanted to retain a little low end torque. If my goal was 800+, there would be no doubt that 2in is the way to go.

The Oil catch can is a must once you see the amount it catches and be sure to either go with a metco valve cover breather or a vented catch can so you don't blow out the front lower crank seal.

This is pretty spot on, everything. With my setup I just did a full cat delete and it opened it right up. For me it was just a cost thing. That said, my setup (with a P1SC1) put down 637rwhp through an A8 and I couldn’t be happier with it. Also, I love the race bypass, have helical gears, and I really like the sounds. The ONLY thing that kind of bothers me now is that the stock NPP muffler is a little too “tinny” sounding, which possibly an aftermarket one will help.

Not sure what your goals are, but I went beyond my expectations with this setup and just ran a 10.6@130.9 the other night and was super happy with it. An amazing daily driver too. Because of when the power comes on, I averaged 27mpg on the way home from the dyno, and have no problems letting my wife take the car and go to work with it. If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn’t change anything EXCEPT maybe upgrade to a better head unit because I didn’t realize how much money it is to do it after the fact. Just poor research on my part.

[Anti_venomSS]

Originally Posted by Dysan911

I wouldn't say it sounds like a ricer by any means. Imagine a lear jet taking off when you're 2 or 3k RPM and holding. Then floor it and the bypass snaps shut and all you hear is the exhaust and the procharger spooling. Let off and it opens the bypass and that rushing lear jet sound returns until you drop down below 2k RPM.

The other alternative is just go with stock procharger bypass valve. That one is quiet but just be absolutely sure about it. Research it, etc because many have regretted they didn't go with the race bypass.

So regarding the KR I was getting. I have a smaller 3.7 pulley on my P1 so my boost was almost 11lbs at redline. Not sure how efficient the P1 is at that boost level but I bet if you went with the D1 you'd be starting off on the right foot. I believe the way it works is the additional boost creates more heat and so my timing had to be dialed back quite a bit to resolve a few degrees of knock at the top. My tuner said if I eliminate the cats it will drop the boost down a bit but the LT's would more than make up for that with better timing and better efficiency in getting the air in and out of the motor. They really woke up the top end very noticeably.

I went with the 1 7/8's because I wanted 600-650 and felt the 2in were just overkill for my power level and also didn't want to run into any chance of rubbing the steering column. I also wanted to retain a little low end torque. If my goal was 800+, there would be no doubt that 2in is the way to go.

The Oil catch can is a must once you see the amount it catches and be sure to either go with a metco valve cover breather or a vented catch can so you don't blow out the front lower crank seal.

Thank you for the detailed response. This was really helpful. I was on the fence regarding the catch can. Looks like I will definitely add it to the build list.

[Anti_venomSS]

Originally Posted by Eyefixstuff

This is pretty spot on, everything. With my setup I just did a full cat delete and it opened it right up. For me it was just a cost thing. That said, my setup (with a P1SC1) put down 637rwhp through an A8 and I couldn’t be happier with it. Also, I love the race bypass, have helical gears, and I really like the sounds. The ONLY thing that kind of bothers me now is that the stock NPP muffler is a little too “tinny” sounding, which possibly an aftermarket one will help.

Not sure what your goals are, but I went beyond my expectations with this setup and just ran a 10.6@130.9 the other night and was super happy with it. An amazing daily driver too. Because of when the power comes on, I averaged 27mpg on the way home from the dyno, and have no problems letting my wife take the car and go to work with it. If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn’t change anything EXCEPT maybe upgrade to a better head unit because I didn’t realize how much money it is to do it after the fact. Just poor research on my part.

Do you still have the stock fuel system at those power levels? 10.6, 27mpg and the ability to be a daily driver all sound super appealing and equally impressive. How is traction on the street? Do you run stock tires or drag radials? I am a little worried I will spin on 305/35/20 ET Streets as this is my first RWD car.

[Eyefixstuff]

Originally Posted by Anti_venomSS

Do you still have the stock fuel system at those power levels? 10.6, 27mpg and the ability to be a daily driver all sound super appealing and equally impressive. How is traction on the street? Do you run stock tires or drag radials? I am a little worried I will spin on 305/35/20 ET Streets as this is my first RWD car.

I have the ZL1 in tank, LT4 hpfp, and LT4 injectors. Also 3.7 pulley. Keep in mind that 27mpg was only because I was purposely trying to see the best I could possibly get, so I was babying it.

Currently using pilot sport 4s 305/30/20 and they hook up okay in warm weather. Obviously at this power level no matter what you’re going to spin some. At the track I use 17” ET street R and dead hook off the line. I know guys running 20” ET street SS as daily tires and they like them a lot.

[TJay74]

I have a 2017 SS 1LE with a D1SC with the stage 2 intercooler and a Tial 2" surge valve. I started out with the stand PC Pro-Flo valve and regretted not putting the 2" valve on it from the get go.

The larger valve is more efficient, it responds faster and allows boost to come on faster. Yes it is louder, but being loud as the only negative it is well worth it.

I have ARH catless headers on my car, with a Alky Controls meth injection system and a very conservative tune I put down 650rwhp at 10.5lbs of boost. I contemplated the D1X but Procharger was adamant I would give up a decent amount of power down low and would only gain it way up high along with being able to put me over my HP goal that I was trying to stay with in.