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Old 11-05-2020, 05:58 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by GunMetalGrey View Post
Yeah I agree regarding the track and the feeling, it was VERY SCARY!

Just to clarify, you are saying the Willwood fluid you mentioned is better than Motul fluid I have?

I would get SRF but last time I checked I could not find it anywhere
Yes imo only.
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Old 11-05-2020, 06:05 PM   #30
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1.11 are Ferodos top longevity RACE pad. Also, dont look at cross mu comparions between manufacturers.
C7R GM Racing used Pagid Blue and that's about 0.5.

You dont need an uber high torque pad to gain pace under braking. All you need to do is continue to brake deeper while progressively releasing the pressure as you turn in. Trust me it works surprisingly well even with stock pads. From your vids your braking has gone to a new level for sure (and you have been rewarded for it handsomely), but you still have tons of opportunities there.
Thanks, that's good to know and good to know.

True, I think i'm carrying more speed through the corners than these guys as well at least partially from better trail braking perhaps
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Old 11-05-2020, 06:12 PM   #31
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Thanks, that's good to know and good to know.
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Old 11-05-2020, 06:13 PM   #32
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How are DS1.11s in terms of pad life, driving to and from the track, and pad taper? And caliper “brownbo” issues with them with the SS ducts?
I believe TrackClub has experience with the DS1.11s on a Corvette he used to have, but I have no experience with them myself yet
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Old 11-05-2020, 06:23 PM   #33
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I'm kinda shocked you lost the brakes with the DTC70s and Motul 660.
But then again I boiled Motul 660 in my little lotus Elise, switched to SRF and never had an issue again.

My camaro came with SRF and DTC70s and despite having approx 700whp and going from about 145-45 into turn 1 at my local track the brake setup seemed completely and utterly unfazed.
I had the Re71s up front singing under braking too, and the tires were greasy, but brakes, brakes were awesome.

Cooling ducts should help, even if you weren't completely fading the pads, it would still likely help with pad life. If you're fading them, yes it would help, but the biggest bang for the buck would likely be the shims, if it's the fluid thats boiling. Is the pedal going to the floor, or it's firm but the car's just not stopping in as short of a distance?
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Old 11-05-2020, 06:29 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by GunMetalGrey View Post
I believe TrackClub has experience with the DS1.11s on a Corvette he used to have, but I have no experience with them myself yet
Indeed! I used them on my C5Z then moved on to DSUNOs and frankly cannot recall how they compared except for the 1.11 having much flatter torque. They are noisy, dusty and when cold not recommended. To/from would be ok, but nothing DD wise imo. And of course Ferodo website warns against it. Never had any taper issues except for xp10 i tried once on my SS.
GMG, a pad you may wanna try is DS2500. It should give you a bit more torque without frying things. I think Strano sells them (at good prices). Might be worth a try and see? Cheers!

PS Hope Yanbags chimes in here as well re his SS experience. But again, when considering pads one MUST also consider the venue. I had run ST43 which cooked my fluid and almost set my wheels on fire (seriously) on a tight track in just few laps, but they did ok at Mosport where apart from 2 corners out of 10 braking is rather light and a long straight cools things pretty good between laps. So it all depends...
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Old 11-05-2020, 10:01 PM   #35
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For those boiling fluid, how old is it? Fresh fluid is rated at the dry boiling point. Over time, and depending on exposure, the fluid absorbs water and the boiling point drops dramatically to it's wet boiling point. It doesn't take long to contaminate fluid. For example:

Fluid Dry Boiling Wet Boiling
Motul 660 617 400
Motul 600 594 401
Brembo HTC 64T 635 397
SRF 608 518

The reason people have good luck with SRF is because it is less hygroscopic than conventional brake fluids - it absorbs less water in a given time. Conventional fluid can absorb moisture sitting on a shelf. The more important number is wet boiling. If max dry boiling is important, be prepared to change the fluid before every event.

The negative with SRF is the moisture it absorbs can become corrosive. You need to change SRF every year. Conventional fluid is designed to resist corrosion and can sit in the system for much longer periods. but it will be reduced to it's wet point

Like everything related to tracking a car, there are trade-offs.

I like Brembo HTC 64T for its low compressibility and high dry boiling point. Gives you a firmer pedal. But I will be changing it a lot more frequently due to it's relatively low wet boiling point.

Link to a comparison of all the major brands
https://thebuildjournal.com/tech-gui...parison-guide/
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Old 11-05-2020, 10:07 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEZL1 View Post
I'm kinda shocked you lost the brakes with the DTC70s and Motul 660.
But then again I boiled Motul 660 in my little lotus Elise, switched to SRF and never had an issue again.

My camaro came with SRF and DTC70s and despite having approx 700whp and going from about 145-45 into turn 1 at my local track the brake setup seemed completely and utterly unfazed.
I had the Re71s up front singing under braking too, and the tires were greasy, but brakes, brakes were awesome.

Cooling ducts should help, even if you weren't completely fading the pads, it would still likely help with pad life. If you're fading them, yes it would help, but the biggest bang for the buck would likely be the shims, if it's the fluid thats boiling. Is the pedal going to the floor, or it's firm but the car's just not stopping in as short of a distance?
How long were your tracking sessions and how long of a break did you have in between sessions?

This only happens to me when I don’t take a 40 minute break between my 20 minute sessions

I’m also using Goodyear super car 3R tires in 305 front and 325 rear widths, which I understand to be the stickiest non-slicks you can buy, Which will definitely allow the brakes to work harder than with RE 71s

The car gives me a warning on the corner before the corner where the pedal goes to the floor by not stopping very well, on the next corner the fluid boils... the first time I chose to ignore this and almost crashed the car, the second time I did not ignore it!
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Old 11-05-2020, 10:14 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackClub View Post
Indeed! I used them on my C5Z then moved on to DSUNOs and frankly cannot recall how they compared except for the 1.11 having much flatter torque. They are noisy, dusty and when cold not recommended. To/from would be ok, but nothing DD wise imo. And of course Ferodo website warns against it. Never had any taper issues except for xp10 i tried once on my SS.
GMG, a pad you may wanna try is DS2500. It should give you a bit more torque without frying things. I think Strano sells them (at good prices). Might be worth a try
That’s good to know regarding the daily driving impact that the Ferodo DS 1.11s have, would you like about the hawk DCT 70s is in terms of noise at least they are great for daily driving, though I’m sure they really bad for rotor wear
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Old 11-05-2020, 10:17 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pcormier66 View Post
For those boiling fluid, how old is it? Fresh fluid is rated at the dry boiling point. Over time, and depending on exposure, the fluid absorbs water and the boiling point drops dramatically to it's wet boiling point. It doesn't take long to contaminate fluid. For example:

Fluid Dry Boiling Wet Boiling
Motul 660 617 400
Motul 600 594 401
Brembo HTC 64T 635 397
SRF 608 518

The reason people have good luck with SRF is because it is less hygroscopic than conventional brake fluids - it absorbs less water in a given time. Conventional fluid can absorb moisture sitting on a shelf. The more important number is wet boiling. If max dry boiling is important, be prepared to change the fluid before every event.

Link to a comparison of all the major brands
https://thebuildjournal.com/tech-gui...parison-guide/
My fluid was may be one or two months old and it was either motul 660 or 600, I can’t remember which.

Once my fluid boiled I should’ve realized it would happen much easier the next time I was on the track, Even after a 60 minute break between sessions it happened again.

Does anyone know where to get Castrol SRF?
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Old 11-05-2020, 10:19 PM   #39
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https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-SRF-R...s%2C251&sr=8-2
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Old 11-05-2020, 10:21 PM   #40
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Note: SRF comes in 1l bottles. Most others, like motul, are 500ml. Divide price by 2 for comparison
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Old 11-05-2020, 11:01 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GunMetalGrey View Post
How long were your tracking sessions and how long of a break did you have in between sessions?

This only happens to me when I don’t take a 40 minute break between my 20 minute sessions

I’m also using Goodyear super car 3R tires in 305 front and 325 rear widths, which I understand to be the stickiest non-slicks you can buy, Which will definitely allow the brakes to work harder than with RE 71s

The car gives me a warning on the corner before the corner where the pedal goes to the floor by not stopping very well, on the next corner the fluid boils... the first time I chose to ignore this and almost crashed the car, the second time I did not ignore it!
It is the tires that slow down the car, so...
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Old 11-05-2020, 11:04 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by GunMetalGrey View Post
My fluid was may be one or two months old and it was either motul 660 or 600, I can’t remember which.

Once my fluid boiled I should’ve realized it would happen much easier the next time I was on the track, Even after a 60 minute break between sessions it happened again.

Does anyone know where to get Castrol SRF?
Once it boils it is done like dinner. Never track the car unless you replace it with fresh. Just an fyi.
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