[TheDamme94]

Since DIY didnt have any answers, anyone have specific instructions on installing the IAT breakout from DSX? And also has anyone tried to make an access door for the LPFP instead of dropping the fuel tank?

[parbreak]

Bump for an answer on the IAT

[TJay74]

What about the IAT?

I have the DSX kit on my 2017 Camaro SS with a Procharger D1SC. I drilled and installed the IAT into my intake myself.

[MP3BOOSTED]

I'm interested in the IAT breakout as i'm having some crazy issues with my car right now, just went boosted, i installed a 3 bar map sensor but for some reason the MAF is causing me to run rich. I'm replacing the MAF since it was exposed in engine bay / not plugged in for a while when undergoing the build but for some reason the IAT's are dropping pretty badly, i feel like this is also causing the cooling fan to stay on even when car is off. i'm going to check wiring here today to see if i can spot anything but after checking on dsx website i'm wondering if that IAT breakout kit would help me any.

[TJay74]

Where is the MAF installed at?

Did you install a Baro breakout?

IAT's dont impact the cooling fan logic, have you pulled codes yet to see what is going on?

Did you do any of this work with the battery plugged in?

[MP3BOOSTED]

Originally Posted by TJay74

Where is the MAF installed at?

Did you install a Baro breakout?

IAT's dont impact the cooling fan logic, have you pulled codes yet to see what is going on?

Did you do any of this work with the battery plugged in?

the MAF is installed on the charge pipe going to the throttle body (as given by procharger)

I was able to pull codes on my scanner, i have to get them from my phone but it was in reference to IATs (Both codes that were given), no codes given via HPTuner scan.

So as far as the battery it has not been plugged in while any of this work was done with the car, actually, everytime i shut it off i unplug the battery as the fan will continue to stay on, i then plug it back in when i have a new tune revision and then carry on with a drive to see how it performs. as i'm loading the tune the fan does not kick on but once vehicle is actually started the fan goes on high and stays on even when turning the car off so any changes being mad are with the battery being disconnected.

[MP3BOOSTED]

Originally Posted by TJay74

Where is the MAF installed at?

Did you install a Baro breakout?

IAT's dont impact the cooling fan logic, have you pulled codes yet to see what is going on?

Did you do any of this work with the battery plugged in?

Oh forgot to answer: no i did not install a baro breakout yet, seeing this post is my first time hearing about it, i do have the RPM custom meth kit installed, dsx aux installed which came with a harness to tap into the MAP, i have installed a 3 bar MAP sensor but other then that procharger provided an extension harness for the MAF as the procharger bracket as well as placement of the MAF caused that to now require a longer harness to reach it.

[TJay74]

Has the fan part of the tune been modified from stock?

Are you running a 160° or the stock 192° t-stat?

The charge pipe is the normal location for the MAF on a Procharger inlet tube, it isnt the best location but it is it where PC puts it.

Also you really need to use a baro break out harness. If you changed the intake manifold to the 3 bar MAP then you are now using 2 map sensors. The MAF has MAP sensor in it, and the intake manifold has one as well. So now the ECM is seeing a baro signal and the MAP signal that is being influenced by boosted air.

The MAP in the MAF needs broke out with the DSX Baro breakout kit, or the baro/IAT breakout kit. Then the 3 bar MAP goes into the IM location. This gives the ECM actual outside barometric info as well as actual boosted MAP data from the 3 bar that is installed in the IM.

HPT tuners can read the codes as well, hook back up and connect with the scanner app. Then open the diagnostic data section and have it scan for error codes. The ECM in the Camaro keeps history of codes even if they have been cleared. They stay for soo many key cycles before it allows them to clear.

[MP3BOOSTED]

Originally Posted by TJay74

Has the fan part of the tune been modified from stock?

Are you running a 160° or the stock 192° t-stat?

The charge pipe is the normal location for the MAF on a Procharger inlet tube, it isnt the best location but it is it where PC puts it.

Also you really need to use a baro break out harness. If you changed the intake manifold to the 3 bar MAP then you are now using 2 map sensors. The MAF has MAP sensor in it, and the intake manifold has one as well. So now the ECM is seeing a baro signal and the MAP signal that is being influenced by boosted air.

The MAP in the MAF needs broke out with the DSX Baro breakout kit, or the baro/IAT breakout kit. Then the 3 bar MAP goes into the IM location. This gives the ECM actual outside barometric info as well as actual boosted MAP data from the 3 bar that is installed in the IM.

HPT tuners can read the codes as well, hook back up and connect with the scanner app. Then open the diagnostic data section and have it scan for error codes. The ECM in the Camaro keeps history of codes even if they have been cleared. They stay for soo many key cycles before it allows them to clear.

I physically haven’t touched or did anything with the fan from stock as far as the tune I’d have to ask my tuner. I’m running my stock thermostat which I was considering in being an issue as well but last time I went with mishimoto the dang thing stuck on me and caused the car to overheat. So I put stock back in.

I just ordered the IAT/Baro breakout kit, I also included the sensors with it just Incase. I will be installing that as soon as it comes in, I also switched over to a aluminum charge pipe and when doing so this Friday I will be installing a new MAF and MAF extension harness just because.

I was able to read the codes earlier and this is what I got “P0113, P2199”.

[TJay74]

The P0113 is a high voltage error from the IAT (inlet air temp) sensor. It means the sensor reported more than the 5v it is designed to read. Most sensors are on a reference voltage setup, they operate in the 0v-5v range.

Those extensions harnesses from PC are known to be bad or have issues with the pins not engaging correctly and or not pinned correctly.

The code P2199 is related to the IAT as well. My money is on the IAT part of the harness isnt pinned correctly or the connection isnt good.

[MP3BOOSTED]

Originally Posted by TJay74

The P0113 is a high voltage error from the IAT (inlet air temp) sensor. It means the sensor reported more than the 5v it is designed to read. Most sensors are on a reference voltage setup, they operate in the 0v-5v range.

Those extensions harnesses from PC are known to be bad or have issues with the pins not engaging correctly and or not pinned correctly.

The code P2199 is related to the IAT as well. My money is on the IAT part of the harness isnt pinned correctly or the connection isnt good.

My tuner was saying the same thing, I am going to try a new harness tomorrow/saturday and give a try and respond back with results.

thanks

[MP3BOOSTED]

Originally Posted by TJay74

The P0113 is a high voltage error from the IAT (inlet air temp) sensor. It means the sensor reported more than the 5v it is designed to read. Most sensors are on a reference voltage setup, they operate in the 0v-5v range.

Those extensions harnesses from PC are known to be bad or have issues with the pins not engaging correctly and or not pinned correctly.

The code P2199 is related to the IAT as well. My money is on the IAT part of the harness isnt pinned correctly or the connection isnt good.

would you think this is the issue why my fans are staying on high even when the car is off?

recommendations on aftermarket thermostat? needed or not needed?

[DorkMissile]

Originally Posted by MP3BOOSTED

would you think this is the issue why my fans are staying on high even when the car is off?

recommendations on aftermarket thermostat? needed or not needed?

Fan is probably staying on because you have a CEL (the P0113) - it is a safety feature because the ECU thinks it is hot.

Now I have a totally different setup as far as a blower goes (ECS / Vortech) but I can guide you on what we had to do with my car to get things smoothed out.

First - my MAF was relocated also - and on the ECS kit, it actually gets moved to the output side of the intercooler. The problem is that it is like 36" down the tubing from the intake, and my tuner thinks that (1) the sensitivity of the air speed may be a little sluggish due to how far away it is, and (2) there could be some kind of harmonic / reverberation issues. Needless to say, I would have weird MAF readings (the MAF output would fluctuate even though it would be under a steady load / rpm - like +/- 10%).

In my tune - as he has some kind of master HP Tuners license - he was able to build a custom table that basically cheats the MAF sensor by converting the sensor data to fake MAF data that the ECU reads. I can see it in my tune, but cannot modify it because I do not have the high level license that he has. *no idea how to get one either*

Secondly - since the MAF is so far away - it came with a extension harness (similar to that of the ProCharger one). The connector they supplied was not real good quality where it met the factory ECU plug, so I myself ended up using their wire to extend the factory plug. Since doing both of these, I have not had any more weird MAF problems

The reason to run a separate IAT sensor is the fact that prior to putting one in, the ECU is reading air temp at the MAF. If you move it more than about 12" or so from the throttle body, it is really no longer relevant. And something else to consider is that the temp sensor you put into the intake is a much better, much more robust sensor also. The ones in the MAF are really setup just for stock-ish type work.

If you are running anything like Meth Inj / Water Inj, you pretty much need the IAT breakout as you are injecting behind the MAF

[MP3BOOSTED]

Originally Posted by DorkMissile

Fan is probably staying on because you have a CEL (the P0113) - it is a safety feature because the ECU thinks it is hot.

Now I have a totally different setup as far as a blower goes (ECS / Vortech) but I can guide you on what we had to do with my car to get things smoothed out.

First - my MAF was relocated also - and on the ECS kit, it actually gets moved to the output side of the intercooler. The problem is that it is like 36" down the tubing from the intake, and my tuner thinks that (1) the sensitivity of the air speed may be a little sluggish due to how far away it is, and (2) there could be some kind of harmonic / reverberation issues. Needless to say, I would have weird MAF readings (the MAF output would fluctuate even though it would be under a steady load / rpm - like +/- 10%).

In my tune - as he has some kind of master HP Tuners license - he was able to build a custom table that basically cheats the MAF sensor by converting the sensor data to fake MAF data that the ECU reads. I can see it in my tune, but cannot modify it because I do not have the high level license that he has. *no idea how to get one either*

Secondly - since the MAF is so far away - it came with a extension harness (similar to that of the ProCharger one). The connector they supplied was not real good quality where it met the factory ECU plug, so I myself ended up using their wire to extend the factory plug. Since doing both of these, I have not had any more weird MAF problems

The reason to run a separate IAT sensor is the fact that prior to putting one in, the ECU is reading air temp at the MAF. If you move it more than about 12" or so from the throttle body, it is really no longer relevant. And something else to consider is that the temp sensor you put into the intake is a much better, much more robust sensor also. The ones in the MAF are really setup just for stock-ish type work.

If you are running anything like Meth Inj / Water Inj, you pretty much need the IAT breakout as you are injecting behind the MAF

This might be to much to ask but can you send me pics (PM) on where everything is relocated on yours, I know it is a different setup but helps me have a few options on the table. As far as your tune i'll mention the type of procedure to my guy and see what he thinks, I am running the RPM custom meth kit and have purchased the breakout harness. so did you have to drill into your intake manifold after the throttle body to get that reading now?