[Kyleregn]

Hey was wondering what you guys thought. I am currently rebuilding my motor with all Manley rotating going with the 10:5 compression 12cc dish pistons. BTR stage 1 forced induction cam. Stock heads but using BTR and Manley on the rebuild. I am running a p1x Stage 2 with the 4.0 and getting 7psi. Planning to drop to a grip tec 3.25. I may in the future change that to upping the crank to 8.25 and upping the head pulley depending on slippage. I’m not exactly sure where I’ll be but hoping to be around 12psi. I have a snow performance WMI kit and ARH full length headers. I am installing LT4 high side and injectors plus a Big Gulp aux fuel supply. My question is, would nitrous be good to add? I was thinking a 100-150 shot would be nice to have. Just not sure how it would work with the WMI kit I already have. Which setup would work well? Can I use both nitrous and my WMI throttle body plates for injection? Any help would be appreciated.

[oldman]

I'd be a little careful on maximum blower speed of 65,000 RPM. You going to be getting really close to that on 7000 RPM shifts.

I'm not a fan of N20 on this car, N20 adds a whole lot of torque and everything on this car is pushed to the limit with just FI, your crank for instance is not rated and is unstable even at 650 ft -lbs, that is why the LT4 has a different fillet design AND has the last throw solid vs hollow. Same goes with the M6, the Zl1 has a stronger (determine by ration) M6, even there the input shaft is not rated on either M6 for more that 650 ft - lbs. Remember it is NOT HP that breaks stuff, it is torque. I'd port the heads and spin the engine upto 7350 RPM, with a 3.5 pulley. Check for max speed, but you should be OK, I have a D1x which has a 62,000 RPM limit. I would also suggest a D1X at the HP range of 12 PSI....it makes safer "cleaner" boost higher in the curve but at about a 20 HP of so of efficiency. Sorry at some point you gotta pay to play. Go for Manley valves too, Proflow I don't think you need the race stuff (severe duty, Inconel or better), but at least the high quality stainless EV8 or better.

[Kyleregn]

I am replacing the crank with Manley also. I was thinking I may want to up the head unit and forget the nitrous. Any idea how much to swap from the p1x to the f1?

[laynlo15]

I ran the Manley Pistons (10.5), Manley Rods and Lt1 Crank but with a Livernois Cam. Ran 9.41@146 with that setup.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by Kyleregn

I am replacing the crank with Manley also. I was thinking I may want to up the head unit and forget the nitrous. Any idea how much to swap from the p1x to the f1?

The D1x upgrade was cheap, I got my setup second hand anyway for cheap, so it was like getting the D1x for free. ($1600) my memory on the exact cost is hazy as I got three different pulleys too.

The f1 means you sell the P1x as little / nothing can be used between the
"kits" and the f1 intercooler AFAIK requires you to hack off the bumper brace.

If you are going true rotating assembly I would NOT bother with stock "drop-in" weight stuff. I posted many times what type of rods / pistons I'd go to.
as an example:
https://www.tickperformance.com/wise...rt-ls6125-927/

Anyway the D1x has over 1000 engine HP rating... really enough for most mortals.