[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by T32803

They are too far away for me. What does the tune alone cost?

Well, I paid for dyno tuning, which I'm sure has a different going rate than remote tuning, plus it was last year, not sure it'd be the same now. Also if you buy parts from them with the tune, additional tune adjustments are free. Why don't you give them a call and find out.

[Driski]

I agree, give Ted Jannetty a call. He is incredibly knowledgeable about these cars and very easy to talk with. He will be able to provide you with options. Of course, he understands budgetary concerns.

[T32803]

I live 1,200 miles from Ted Jannetty so I didn't want to call him and
waste his time asking about prices so I asked you just to get an idea
of what a tune-only from a good place should cost.

[Driski]

Originally Posted by T32803

I live 1,200 miles from Ted Jannetty so I didn't want to call him and
waste his time asking about prices so I asked you just to get an idea
of what a tune-only from a good place should cost.

First, Ted would not mind speaking to you and providing some guidance. Perhaps for what you need it can be done remotely? Having said that the best I can tell you is a charge of around $240 per hr. for Dyno tune with wide band per hour @ 3 hrs. was what it cost me. I had headers and E85 added. I hope that helps you in your decision. good luck

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by T32803

I live 1,200 miles from Ted Jannetty so I didn't want to call him and
waste his time asking about prices so I asked you just to get an idea
of what a tune-only from a good place should cost.

I hear you, but am also pretty sure he or any of his other 4 guys would be happy to give you info without buying anything. That's what Ted had done repeatedly before I even had the car he eventually tuned for me, which was also a factor in my decision to choose their shop. The price I paid for dyno tuning was the same as the one Driski quoted, bur then again, we can't answer your exact question because your situation is different (and because we aren't JRE, heh).

[Zosozeppelin]

Update on my end:

I live about 30 minutes from my dealer and drove through their end of town today. They had told me after my first visit regarding the shudder that it wasn't reading high enough on the picometer for GM to warranty the flush and to come back around May to try again. When I went by today, it was raining pretty bad and the tech that is basically solely dedicated to working on these shudders at this dealership said that the picometer will not read it at all if it's raining outside, even if the car is shuddering like crazy. This makes me wonder if that's what happened the first time as it was raining that day they tried. Anyway, long story short, they told me to come back after Tuesday this week so that they could give me a loaner Malibu (I didn't even ask about that, they offered that on their own) so that they can drive it and flush it. They said that they're almost certain they can get it to vibrate bad enough and that they'll get it taken care of. So, that makes me feel better about it, especially since they want to keep it and get it done. We shall see!

[Driski]

Best of luck!

[Zosozeppelin]

Took it to the dealer and went on a test drive with them. It read bad enough within the first 30 seconds of us getting on the interstate to qualify it for the flush. The tech said that it was a good thing I had the extended warranty on it because he's not convinced that the torque converter wasn't damaged from all of this and that eventually it will have to be replaced. I'll cross that bridge when we get there. I'm just glad it's getting flushed at this point.

So for anyone else that is struggling to get it to read bad enough at a dealer:

1. Drive for at least 20-30 minutes before you go up there to get it nice and warmed up.
2. Do not bring it up there if it is going to rain that day as it will not pick up on the picometer if it's raining.
3. Make sure it's warmer outside, it'll shudder worse when it's warm.
4.Get them to take it on the interstate or have them ride with you while you drive and do a slower, steady acceleration between 45-75 MPH. I've found that it consistently shudders when I drive that way.

[SSport16]

Good deal...so far I have had good luck with the flush and latest TCM reprogram, hopefully you will too!

[T32803]

Originally Posted by SSport16

Good deal...so far I have had good luck with the flush and latest TCM reprogram, hopefully you will too!

GM is offering TCM reprogramming ???
This sounds like something new. Do tell..

[SSport16]

Originally Posted by T32803

GM is offering TCM reprogramming ???
This sounds like something new. Do tell..

I have had it done 2 or 3 times already....Mine was also shifting/jerking rough when shifting from P to D or P to R this last time when I brought it in for the newest flush, so they once again reprogrammed the TCM, basically sets it back to factory default basically, puts into a relearn mode for a while, like when the car when was bought new.

[T32803]

Originally Posted by SSport16

I have had it done 2 or 3 times already....Mine was also shifting/jerking rough when shifting from P to D or P to R this last time when I brought it in for the newest flush, so they once again reprogrammed the TCM, basically sets it back to factory default basically, puts into a relearn mode for a while, like when the car when was bought new.

Ah, resets it to re-learn mode. When you said "TCM reprogram" it sounded
like the TCP was being reprogrammed to take out the shudder.

[njweatherman]

I wonder if I have the shudder now:(
2018 2ss, automatic, Range finder to eliminate AFM, flow-master axleback, K&N cold air-intake, 7,500 miles.


When I slowly accelerate at any speed, I can feel the rear wheels vibrate and the steering wheel, but it is not continuous. The vibration persists on-and-off until I let up off the gas or I accelerate at a faster rate.



It does not happen when I am coasting or accelerating steadily.



Any thoughts? Is this the infamous shudder?

[Silverado57]

Originally Posted by njweatherman

I wonder if I have the shudder now:(
2018 2ss, automatic, Range finder to eliminate AFM, flow-master axleback, K&N cold air-intake, 7,500 miles.


When I slowly accelerate at any speed, I can feel the rear wheels vibrate and the steering wheel, but it is not continuous. The vibration persists on-and-off until I let up off the gas or I accelerate at a faster rate.



It does not happen when I am coasting or accelerating steadily.



Any thoughts? Is this the infamous shudder?

If it feels like you're going over mild rumble strips, that's it. It may be something else you're experiencing.

I see you're in H'town. I discovered my shudder on Waterloo Road cruising at about 45 mph with steady pedal.