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Old 07-23-2018, 09:04 AM   #15
RXtacy
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeromeS13 View Post
I was able to get -2.5 degrees in the front, and had about 6mm of clearance between the wheel and the strut.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpha1BC View Post
Right, sorry I meant needing to grind out the bolt-hole on the strut. I could only get -2 because that's all the holes on the struts would allow. No issues with tires or rims clearing anything.
There is some variance to the tolerance stack up. I was able to get -2.5 also, but my buddy maxed out at ~ -2.3 IIRC. Usually one side has slightly less than the other so that is your limiting factor.

That being said a little grinding to the bolt slots and you can get even more.
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Old 07-23-2018, 09:45 AM   #16
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2.6F with no issues right at a (competent) GM delaer with zero grinding. 1.6 rear.
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Old 07-23-2018, 10:37 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Alpha1BC View Post
If you're lucky you might be able to get -2.5 out of the front without modification. I am maxed out at -2. To get more, I'd either need to grind out my struts or get camber plates.
I got -2.6 on mine

I assume it's maxed out.. ironically it was set to -2.6 F and -1.9 R as picked up from the dealer - new. However, that dealer clearly set it that way as the OEM paint torque check marks no longer lined up.
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Old 07-23-2018, 11:04 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Alpha1BC View Post
Right, sorry I meant needing to grind out the bolt-hole on the strut. I could only get -2 because that's all the holes on the struts would allow. No issues with tires or rims clearing anything.
Odd. It's weird how some of us can get -2.5 or so and some can only get -2.0 or so without modification.
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Old 07-23-2018, 11:18 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Dave-ROR View Post
I got -2.6 on mine

I assume it's maxed out.. ironically it was set to -2.6 F and -1.9 R as picked up from the dealer - new. However, that dealer clearly set it that way as the OEM paint torque check marks no longer lined up.
Wonder why a dealer would even touch an alignment on a new car.
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Old 07-23-2018, 11:27 AM   #20
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Wonder why a dealer would even touch an alignment on a new car.
Maybe it arrived visibly "disturbed"? Or maybe the dealer took it out on track lol!
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Old 07-23-2018, 11:50 AM   #21
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Maybe it arrived visibly "disturbed"? Or maybe the dealer took it out on track lol!
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Old 07-23-2018, 01:09 PM   #22
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Maybe it arrived visibly "disturbed"? Or maybe the dealer took it out on track lol!
lol didn't have enough mileage on it yet for that.

Absolutely no idea why they changed it though.
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Old 07-23-2018, 02:10 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Dave-ROR View Post
lol didn't have enough mileage on it yet for that.

Absolutely no idea why they changed it though.
When I test drove mine, I swore the alignment was off. I'm generally very sensitive to this. Tech drove it and thought the same, however after checking, alignment was fine (I even watched them check it). It was the horrible roads around the dealership, exaggerated the tram lining of the large tires, making it feel out of alignment.

Perhaps someone from your dealership felt the same thing, and thought the alignment was off/needed fixing. Now why did they set it to a track spec....maybe the technician tracks his cars, lol
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Old 07-24-2018, 09:10 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by JeromeS13 View Post
Odd. It's weird how some of us can get -2.5 or so and some can only get -2.0 or so without modification.
Yeah, maybe I'm just the unlucky one that got parts on the edge of the spec limits in this case. We had the bolts that go through the strut pushed out of the knurls and the adjustment screw that goes into the top of the knuckle was pulled out. I got -2.0 on one side and -2.1 or -2.2 on the other so we set them both to -2.0 and called it a day. I guess I'd rather have that be the issue with the car than something more serious lol.
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