[NickyRacerBoy]

Aim solo DL showed 7250 rpms

[TrackClub]

Looked like 7500 on PDR, but whatever lol!

[NickyRacerBoy]

Originally Posted by Stormtrooper1le

You were rollin man- that sucks to see happen but unfortunately the nature of the sport! For future I would just watch your downshifts as some are pinging 7k+!!!

Thanks..
Gear downshifts timing is more complicated as entre speeds increase..but I know what u mean..
Dont wanna over brake for turns but then again wanna wanna watch my rpms.

[Stephen12ZL1]

you were consistently over revving your LT1...it was definitely the ultimate downfall & the reason for that failure. Was the limiter stock & valvetrain?

[Stormtrooper1le]

Originally Posted by NickyRacerBoy

Thanks..
Gear downshifts timing is more complicated as entre speeds increase..but I know what u mean..
Dont wanna over brake for turns but then again wanna wanna watch my rpms.

Dude your doing it at like the 200-300' brake marker lol- but I know what you mean

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

you were consistently over revving your LT1...it was definitely the ultimate downfall & the reason for that failure. Was the limiter stock & valvetrain?

I dont think a stock motor has double srpings

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Looked like 7500 on PDR, but whatever lol!

I think there's a tendency to look at the beginning of the red as being 7000 when it's really only 6500.

Nick's last two downshifts for T1 went past 7000.


Norm

[NickyRacerBoy]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

I think there's a tendency to look at the beginning of the red as being 7000 when it's really only 6500.

Nick's last two downshifts for T1 went past 7000.


Norm

Yes...exactly...
7500 rpms would illuminated the the last red bar fully.

As far as constantly overrevving Johnson link bar slow bleed down lifters PAC daul springs should easily handle 7500 rpms. I run cam phaser delete so that should not be in play either.
My overall gearing at NJMP two tracks makes me squeeze 4th gear. Going into 5th right at the end of the straightaway then to just downshift is a no go. Granted need to complete my downshift a little later but come sit in my passenger seat. I am pushing hard.

My oil is analyzed every change and always good but I need to change out valve springs every session. These springs have 19 track days at 120 130 miles per event.

[RUQWIKR]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

you were consistently over revving your LT1...it was definitely the ultimate downfall & the reason for that failure. Was the limiter stock & valvetrain?

It's a head / cam motor with different valvetrain, no VVT, higher rev limit, etc.

[NickyRacerBoy]

Originally Posted by RUQWIKR

It's a head / cam motor with different valvetrain, no VVT, higher rev limit, etc.

[NickyRacerBoy]

Bottom line is these valve springs are only good for a session.
The engine has no noise so hopefully the valve is stuck in the closed position. Has to be or it would be clanking hard. Pull the head get it fixed and if piston is damaged replace it. Obviously check the rod and bearing on that hole.

[RUQWIKR]

Originally Posted by NickyRacerBoy

Bottom line is these valve springs are only good for a session.
The engine has no noise so hopefully the valve is stuck in the closed position. Has to be or it would be clanking hard. Pull the head get it fixed and if piston is damaged replace it. Obviously check the rod and bearing on that hole.

Your valve spring budget will be more than your already high purple crack / Hoosier budget if your replacing your springs each session.

Think you typed it at beer:30 - the next ones, buy ones that last a season!

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by NickyRacerBoy

Yes...exactly...
7500 rpms would illuminated the the last red bar fully.

As far as constantly overrevving Johnson link bar slow bleed down lifters PAC daul springs should easily handle 7500 rpms. I run cam phaser delete so that should not be in play either.
My overall gearing at NJMP two tracks makes me squeeze 4th gear. Going into 5th right at the end of the straightaway then to just downshift is a no go. Granted need to complete my downshift a little later but come sit in my passenger seat. I am pushing hard.

My oil is analyzed every change and always good but I need to change out valve springs every session. These springs have 19 track days at 120 130 miles per event.

Yes, taking a peek at the vid again, she didnt go full 7500.
But, the more important fact is that you keep the motor at (or over) 7000 for long durations and several times per (short) lap both on accelerations and under braking. Hence my flippant and poorly articulated response of "whatever"

No engine is meant to run for *prolonged* intervals close to its redline no matter how "built" it is. Besides that last 500rpm likely doest really give ya much - pace wise - anyway.

Seems to me you should perhaps look at different gearing for this track and either go shorter and shift into 5th, or longer and stay in 4th but either way get a bit of rpm margin as right now you got none. Even if you swap springs more frequently something else can go boom next time. Imo.

Anyhow, looks like this fix may be relatively simple (but still sucks zero doubt), but especially if ya plan on going full on racing, id look at better gearing for sure as door to door is a completely different kettle of fish driver stress related- even at lowest of amateur levels. Cheers!

[RUQWIKR]

Just do a YouTube search on valve float or bounce. A valve train in control can stay at that rpm for long periods of time. Spintron will show where the fuss point(s) are. Often, it’s not always at sone high rpm but sometimes also well below it. Top level engine builders like Katech have Spintrons to try different cam, lifter, valve, rocker, spring, etc. combos on. The lighter the valves, typically the better. I’d run LT4 intake Ti intake valves and only on a cam train / valvetrain combo I had Spintron data on.