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Old 12-12-2017, 12:03 PM   #29
Raven87
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Old 12-12-2017, 12:48 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by ChevyCav View Post
What? Who said they weren't fixing the broken lifter on #3? And it isn't repaired yet to my knowledge I have to call later tlday
I'm trying to determine how they told you it was the one lifter. Hoping for the best but I don't think the shop actually knows the extent of any damage without getting into the motor. It sounded like they pulled the heads to get to the lifters and put it all back together so you could go pick up the car.
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Old 12-12-2017, 12:56 PM   #31
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Unless there is some magic involved for the new LT1, I cannot imagine some way to remove and replace a lifter without removing the head. The lifter rides on the cam and the pushrod sits on the lifter which is much larger in diameter than the push rod. The Push rod goes through the head in a very small opening (smaller than the lifter) to operate the Rocker arm and in turn open the valve per the cam lobe.

I am not aware of a way to pull a lifter out through the head on an OHV motor but maybe I'm wrong.
You're probably right, maybe they just saw the lifter broken and came to that conclusion? Like I said before there is a part on back order something to do with the fuel line or something and isn't repair completely yet. I'm going to give a call later and see what's going on with that back ordered part.
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Old 12-12-2017, 01:23 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by sykb47l View Post
I'm trying to determine how they told you it was the one lifter. Hoping for the best but I don't think the shop actually knows the extent of any damage without getting into the motor. It sounded like they pulled the heads to get to the lifters and put it all back together so you could go pick up the car.
To my knowledge it isn't repaired yet and they said they inspected it and said that was all they could find. I am not sure other than that. All I know is there's a part on backorder and my car is still sitting there. I'm hoping since it is a reputable place that they don't do anything neglectful.
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Old 12-12-2017, 01:57 PM   #33
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You think so? Even if no damage was done to the springs physically? This is so frustrating and annoying. Is lifter, push rods and spring replacement difficult?

Edit: Just ordered a valve spring pressure tester, playing no games here.
Good idea to check them. 8000rpm could fatigue the stock springs and end up dropping a valve in the future. With heads off it shouldn't be difficult to change them if you dont have access to shop air. Buy a spring compressor and do it on a bench. Cheap insurance. Are you upgrading the cam? If so i would use new lifters as well. Best of luck op. Remember it's just a machine, it can be fixed.
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Old 12-12-2017, 03:42 PM   #34
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Good idea to check them. 8000rpm could fatigue the stock springs and end up dropping a valve in the future. With heads off it shouldn't be difficult to change them if you dont have access to shop air. Buy a spring compressor and do it on a bench. Cheap insurance. Are you upgrading the cam? If so i would use new lifters as well. Best of luck op. Remember it's just a machine, it can be fixed.
Honestly if there out of spec or something doesn't feel right I'll just take the head to a tuner and have them replace it. I'd rather it be done right. Money is tight but a new engine is definitely not in the budget. Rather do it right. I plan on just keeping everything stock
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Old 12-12-2017, 04:19 PM   #35
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If you are near redline and about to shift and you mess that up, the car is accelerating, the engine is screaming, all of that energy has to go somewhere, the rev-limiter will cut fuel, but it won't stop the thing from over-revving if you mechanically force it into a lower gear in this circumstance. You'd have to have some kind of complex engine brake to stop this, not just a fuel cutoff.
Mine is an M6 and the computer locks me out of the lower gears if shifting into them would cause over-reving......so unless driver brutally forced shifter into the wrong gear or something I don't understand why this happened. (works just like the reverse gear lock-out).
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Old 12-12-2017, 04:22 PM   #36
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Mine is an M6 and the computer locks me out of the lower gears if shifting into them would cause over-reving......so unless driver brutally forced shifter into the wrong gear or something I don't understand why this happened. (works just like the reverse gear lock-out).
Really? That's the first i hear of a lock out.
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Old 12-12-2017, 04:24 PM   #37
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Mine is an M6 and the computer locks me out of the lower gears if shifting into them would cause over-reving......so unless driver brutally forced shifter into the wrong gear or something I don't understand why this happened. (works just like the reverse gear lock-out).
It wasn't like I was redlining the car, just to much speed for 2nd gear when I tried to go to 4th, I honestly don't know it just happened pretty fast, saw what happened pressed the clutch and shifted into the right gear and drove off after that.

I'm just hoping since the speed wasn't absurd and the engine RPM had to be under 7750-8k, that the damage was very minimal and that one cylinder was the only thing affected. Other than that I have read these engines are pretty damn tough so I'm hoping that's the case.
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Old 12-12-2017, 07:44 PM   #38
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Stupid question but I doubt the warranty covers an accident like this correct? lol
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Old 12-12-2017, 07:46 PM   #39
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Stupid question but I doubt the warranty covers an accident like this correct? lol
If they know the failure was due to a mechanical over-rev, unlikely..
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Old 12-12-2017, 08:27 PM   #40
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Honestly if there out of spec or something doesn't feel right I'll just take the head to a tuner and have them replace it. I'd rather it be done right. Money is tight but a new engine is definitely not in the budget. Rather do it right. I plan on just keeping everything stock
Even better then. It should run fine with new heads installed by a competent tech. Fix it right the 1st time for sure. Shift lockout doesn't prevent a money shift. Its for fuel economy. The rev limiter can only cut fuel or ignition. Overrev is mechanical however.

If gm has a tech pull the heads or the scope the cylinder and find valve marks on the piston tops then they could deduce a money shift which i believe is not covered unfortunately.
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Old 12-12-2017, 09:15 PM   #41
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Even better then. It should run fine with new heads installed by a competent tech. Fix it right the 1st time for sure. Shift lockout doesn't prevent a money shift. Its for fuel economy. The rev limiter can only cut fuel or ignition. Overrev is mechanical however.

If gm has a tech pull the heads or the scope the cylinder and find valve marks on the piston tops then they could deduce a money shift which i believe is not covered unfortunately.
I was aware of that from my reading. To my knowledge and what I asked there wasn't any piston to valve contact. So idk it's strange to me, they scoped it and said this. I can afford to fix it, I just want it repaired either way.
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Old 12-16-2017, 10:51 AM   #42
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Update: Car is back, a valve was bent in #3, there was a very very small nick on the piston supposedly. Replaced it, CEL is off runs great, put about 100 miles since I got it back haven't heard any abnormal sounds or anything. I was paranoid about 2,4,6,8 cylinders since that side wasn't really evaluated to my knowledge but it's not down on power, no weird noises...so I think I'm in the clear. I was thinking of doing a compression/leak down test on that side just to calm down my paranoia but just looked at the engine againit's pretty intimidating to say the least.
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