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Old 12-16-2017, 12:34 PM   #43
Zeke.Malvo

 
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I would have a leakdown test done still

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Old 12-16-2017, 01:08 PM   #44
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Sorry to hear about your issue.
Never been inside a modern LT1, but pushrod engines are all the same, essentially.
After an overrev, (aside from obviously broken parts) the only thing a mechanic can really tell by examining is if there was piston-to-valve contact. The excessive revs exceed the design limits of the valve springs and cause the lifter to be "thrown" away from the cam lobe instead of following it back down nicely like it should. This lets the valves and the piston occupy the same space, not good. If the valve-to-piston contact was light, your motor's bottom end should survive with just some nicks in the piston top. This can be determined with a bore scope, as you have found with your mechanic.
You'd have to tear the top end all apart to make sure everything that might have been damaged is checked out/replaced.
Pushrods can be checked for damage, as can valves and rockers. Valve springs can be rate-checked to see if they have been weakened, but personally, I would never trust them again. If a valve spring breaks, you will really have some valve-to-piston contact and serious damage. I would have the top end serviced by the dealer and see if they will warranty it.

Good luck, my friend.
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Old 12-16-2017, 03:51 PM   #45
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Money shift and Money shot, similar names, completely different outcomes... ha ha
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Old 12-16-2017, 04:38 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by guitarman8373 View Post
Mine is an M6 and the computer locks me out of the lower gears if shifting into them would cause over-reving......so unless driver brutally forced shifter into the wrong gear or something I don't understand why this happened. (works just like the reverse gear lock-out).
I thought there were lockout solenoids that have been on the T6 for a long time??
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Old 12-16-2017, 06:40 PM   #47
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I thought there were lockout solenoids that have been on the T6 for a long time??
If there's any argument against deactivating the skip shift, we may have found it. No doubt the solenoid that locks out 2nd for skip shift would be the same solenoid that locks out second to prevent accidental shifts from third to second at high revs. Anyone know if these aftermarket skip shift defeat devices are sophisticated enough to only prevent lockout in the skip shift mode, but not in the high rev 3rd to 4th scenario? Better yet, can anyone confirm such an "engine safety" lockout software control scenario exists? I know they didn't exist in the past - the shift linkage spring always pulls to the center of the "six legged H" on well-designed 6MTs - it seems it would take the driver to intentionally pull against that spring to put into second vs. 3rd; but I can see how a novice might do that in the excitement of spirited acceleration. ...I've never tried the Corvette 7MT and have been curious how one can drive with that shift linkage "without having to think about it" to prevent hitting the wrong gear...I guess with a good centering spring, the only real risk is hitting 7th when you wanted 5th because you pushed against the spring too hard when going for 5th...
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Old 12-16-2017, 07:13 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Zeke.Malvo View Post
I would have a leakdown test done still

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I've gotten on the gas a few times like I said feels like normal but yeah I'm still going to give it a shot with the leak down test.
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Old 12-16-2017, 07:18 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by wwiiavfan View Post
Sorry to hear about your issue.
Never been inside a modern LT1, but pushrod engines are all the same, essentially.
After an overrev, (aside from obviously broken parts) the only thing a mechanic can really tell by examining is if there was piston-to-valve contact. The excessive revs exceed the design limits of the valve springs and cause the lifter to be "thrown" away from the cam lobe instead of following it back down nicely like it should. This lets the valves and the piston occupy the same space, not good. If the valve-to-piston contact was light, your motor's bottom end should survive with just some nicks in the piston top. This can be determined with a bore scope, as you have found with your mechanic.
You'd have to tear the top end all apart to make sure everything that might have been damaged is checked out/replaced.
Pushrods can be checked for damage, as can valves and rockers. Valve springs can be rate-checked to see if they have been weakened, but personally, I would never trust them again. If a valve spring breaks, you will really have some valve-to-piston contact and serious damage. I would have the top end serviced by the dealer and see if they will warranty it.

Good luck, my friend.
Well the car is already fixed, put 100+ miles on it and it seems like everything is really good and tight. I'm going to check out the other cylinders on the other side however to make sure everything is all good (since the mechanic only focused on the affected side with cylinder 3). It starts right up, has regular valve train noise and pulls hard and no CEL. I'm going to still do a compression or leak down test just to keep me sleeping well.
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Old 12-17-2017, 01:46 PM   #50
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Better yet, can anyone confirm such an "engine safety" lockout software control scenario exists? .
+1
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Old 12-17-2017, 01:52 PM   #51
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lockout software on a manual? I doubt it. It's not easy to do a money shift either, you really gotta bang it into that lower gear.
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Old 12-18-2017, 12:33 AM   #52
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lockout software on a manual? I doubt it. It's not easy to do a money shift either, you really gotta bang it into that lower gear.
I'm surprised they haven't created something that would lock it out similar to skip shift. But I agree, you have to put it in there with force to actually get it in gear at such a high rpm.

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Old 01-13-2018, 10:46 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by Zeke.Malvo View Post
I'm surprised they haven't created something that would lock it out similar to skip shift. But I agree, you have to put it in there with force to actually get it in gear at such a high rpm.

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They have, as far as I know. I mean 2nd gear alone tops out at +- 80mph and it locks me out of 1st for sure at those speeds.

I don't really feel like going on the highway and getting up to 85+ mph in 3rd just to see if it'll prevent me from shifting into 2nd accidently tho.

I use the push/pull method for shifting and never had an issue. Sometimes I'll go into too high of a gear if I'm not paying attention (5th instead of 3rd etc) but I could see how a brute force grabbing of the shifter and pulling it into gear could overcome the lockout possibly.
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Old 01-13-2018, 07:42 PM   #54
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They have, as far as I know. I mean 2nd gear alone tops out at +- 80mph and it locks me out of 1st for sure at those speeds.

I don't really feel like going on the highway and getting up to 85+ mph in 3rd just to see if it'll prevent me from shifting into 2nd accidently tho.

I use the push/pull method for shifting and never had an issue. Sometimes I'll go into too high of a gear if I'm not paying attention (5th instead of 3rd etc) but I could see how a brute force grabbing of the shifter and pulling it into gear could overcome the lockout possibly.
It doesn't have a lockout. It's just that difficult to do.

I was referring to a lockout like the skipshift stuff. The TR6060 does not have a lockout.

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1969 Pro-Touring MaCh 1 - CHP 427w 10.8 comp - 3140 lbs. - 460 rwhp / 490 rwtq
T56 Magnum || 14" 6 piston front / 13" 4 piston rear Wilwood brakes || Hydraulic clutch || 9" Detroit Locker || TCP Coilovers || Forgeline Wheels 18x10 275/35 front, 19x12 325/30 rear
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Old 01-24-2019, 10:23 PM   #55
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Well the car is already fixed, put 100+ miles on it and it seems like everything is really good and tight. I'm going to check out the other cylinders on the other side however to make sure everything is all good (since the mechanic only focused on the affected side with cylinder 3). It starts right up, has regular valve train noise and pulls hard and no CEL. I'm going to still do a compression or leak down test just to keep me sleeping well.
Were you able to get this warrantied?
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