[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Kings is always poking so its ok and sometimes I deserve it. We've all been thru a lot of stuff and some have had worse luck then others but we've all survived so far.

I am just sharing experience my friend.

I had a 1996 Z28 M6 that I put a P1SC procharger on back in 2002. One of the first to run a Procharger in the area. Back then it was claimed you could run a STOCK tune with a supplied fuel management unit that simply restricted the return fuel line and increased fuel pressure as boost increased. It worked but ran rich...I decided it would be better to get a proper tune. So I ordered a mail order tune(popular at the time due to limited resources) for the car from a well recognized company at the time. Guess what, I installed it(swapped pcm's), then went out and made a couple pulls. Engine blew a head gasket. So I ended up taking it to a shop and come to find out, the mail order company sent me a NA tune for another car. That cost me 5k...The tune company refunded me the tune only. Back then there was no HPtuners...data-logging was unheard of. You had to use LS1/LT1 edit which was not user friendly unless you were a computer geek.


In 2020 it's is a entirely different ball game...the tools are out there so even a novice in the hobby can take the necessary measures to make sure the setup is proper with a little bit of research.

I am not trying to bash a guy when he is down...I am trying to send a message to all that read this. Don't buy into the "Bolt a supercharger on and go" claim that these companies try to sell. Before you ever go FI, you SHOULD purchase HPtuners and a AEM wideband. Then start learning how to log data. It will save you a lot of money in the long run. Even getting a professional dyno tune doesn't mean that your setup is optimized. I have fixed plenty of those so called tunes for guys and I am just a nobody that tries to share info and experiences on the internet to help others save time, hassle, and money.

[gtfoxy]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I am just sharing experience my friend.

I had a 1996 Z28 M6 that I put a P1SC procharger on back in 2002. One of the first to run a Procharger in the area. Back then it was claimed you could run a STOCK tune with a supplied fuel management unit that simply restricted the return fuel line and increased fuel pressure as boost increased. It worked but ran rich...I decided it would be better to get a proper tune. So I ordered a mail order tune(popular at the time due to limited resources) for the car from a well recognized company at the time. Guess what, I installed it(swapped pcm's), then went out and made a couple pulls. Engine blew a head gasket. So I ended up taking it to a shop and come to find out, the mail order company sent me a NA tune for another car. That cost me 5k...The tune company refunded me the tune only. Back then there was no HPtuners...data-logging was unheard of. You had to use LS1/LT1 edit which was not user friendly unless you were a computer geek.


In 2020 it's is a entirely different ball game...the tools are out there so even a novice in the hobby can take the necessary measures to make sure the setup is proper with a little bit of research.

I am not trying to bash a guy when he is down...I am trying to send a message to all that read this. Don't buy into the "Bolt a supercharger on and go" claim that these companies try to sell. Before you ever go FI, you SHOULD purchase HPtuners and a AEM wideband. Then start learning how to log data. It will save you a lot of money in the long run. Even getting a professional dyno tune doesn't mean that your setup is optimized. I have fixed plenty of those so called tunes for guys and I am just a nobody that tries to share info and experiences on the internet to help others save time, hassle, and money.

Yeah, I remember those days.

I was exposed to Haltecs & Accel DFI back around 96.

around 2K I was using a Ford EPEC on my twin turbo stang. I saw a lot of guys trying to replicate what I was doing with just injectors/MAF, manual timing & fuel pressure. It would work but the fine tuning & data logging just wasn’t the same.

[SienarSystems]

Funny, I blew the seals on my rotary with a mail order tune (also from a respected company) on my tt Rx7. Traded it for a ‘96 cobra.

[DPB1LE]

I had a Whipple supercharger package installed about a year ago at PDT Motorsports in Oakdale and they dyno'd it stock and after the Whipple tune. Their programmer said the tune was good. Whipple provided them a tune for a stock engine and one for Rotofab intake. They said the tune for the stock engine was the safest to run. My car has run awesome on the stock Whipple tune for a year now (592HP and 586TQ). Only problem I had was a blown front main seal after a track day last year which they repaired for me. I have developed another oil leak just recently. Bringing it in next week, hoping it's not the rear main. I've read that the stock LT1 front main seals (rear too?) won't hold up to FI engines. What is the best way to deal with the crankcase pressure problem on LT1's after FI?

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by DPB1LE

I had a Whipple supercharger package installed about a year ago at PDT Motorsports in Oakdale and they dyno'd it stock and after the Whipple tune. Their programmer who is supposed to be very good said the tune was good. Whipple provided them a tune for a stock engine and one for my only mod which was a Rotofab intake. They said the tune for the stock engine was the safest to run, can't remember why. My car has run awesome on the stock Whipple tune for a year now (592HP and 586TQ). Only problem I had was a blown front main seal after a track day last year which they repaired for me. I have developed another oil leak just recently. Bringing it in next week, hoping it's not the rear main. I've read that the stock LT1 front main seals (rear too?) won't hold up to FI engines. What is the best way to deal with the crankcase pressure problem on LT1's after FI?

If you are blowing out main seals with the stock pulley you might have a piston ring issue. I would have a compression test done on your engine.

I have had my Whipple for a year and put about 5k miles on it so far...no leaks or blown seals. Custom tune with LS3 crank seal, catch can, and metco valve cover breather.

[gtfoxy]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

If you are blowing out main seals with the stock pulley you might have a piston ring issue. I would have a compression test done on your engine.

I have had my Whipple for a year and put about 5k miles on it so far...no leaks or blown seals. Custom tune with LS3 crank seal, catch can, and metco valve cover breather.

I’d personally do a leak down as well.

Outside of that, I’m a big proponent of crank case vacuum pumps.

[jCastr25]

I recently purchased a camaro with a e force supercharger and noticed it was leaking oil from the rear main seal, im just hoping its not a piston ring problem.

[gtfoxy]

Originally Posted by jCastr25

I recently purchased a camaro with a e force supercharger and noticed it was leaking oil from the rear main seal, im just hoping its not a piston ring problem.

How many yrs/miles since it was installed?

I’d check the warranty information on the kit to see if it’s transferable.

[laynlo15]

King is right, on my original lt1 I blew the front crank seal and replaced it with the ls3 seal but thinking back it probably broke the ring land on number 1 at the same time. Ran a couple more months and at the Camaro fest in 2018 it blew oil out of the rear seal and I'm guessing at the time it broke number 8 ring land but I kept going not knowing at the time I had two broken pistons and at the next race I finished it off and pushed a lot of oil out of the rear seal and oil the track down. Scoped it and did a compression check so the damage was done.

[radz28]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I am just sharing experience my friend...
... I am not trying to bash a guy when he is down...I am trying to send a message to all that read this. Don't buy into the "Bolt a supercharger on and go" claim that these companies try to sell. Before you ever go FI, you SHOULD purchase HPtuners and a AEM wideband. Then start learning how to log data. It will save you a lot of money in the long run. Even getting a professional dyno tune doesn't mean that your setup is optimized. I have fixed plenty of those so called tunes for guys and I am just a nobody that tries to share info and experiences on the internet to help others save time, hassle, and money.

There are guys on here, like Jannetti, that will work through email with you. I recommend him because he has always been spot-on with me. Get your HPTuners and AEM WB and get with someone like him, if nothing else. I've done a little tuning on a couple of my cars, and it can be as fun and rewarding as you want it to be. It can also be a nightmare if you don't know WTF you're doing.

[jCastr25]

Originally Posted by gtfoxy

How many yrs/miles since it was installed?

I’d check the warranty information on the kit to see if it’s transferable.

The car has 18,2xx miles and the kit was installed back in 2017, or at least thats the information y received when I purchased the car.



At this point im hoping the cylinder walls are not damaged so I can do a set of GPI drop in forged rods/pistons.

[jCastr25]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

King is right, on my original lt1 I blew the front crank seal and replaced it with the ls3 seal but thinking back it probably broke the ring land on number 1 at the same time. Ran a couple more months and at the Camaro fest in 2018 it blew oil out of the rear seal and I'm guessing at the time it broke number 8 ring land but I kept going not knowing at the time I had two broken pistons and at the next race I finished it off and pushed a lot of oil out of the rear seal and oil the track down. Scoped it and did a compression check so the damage was done.

What was your hp when this happened?

[DPB1LE]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

If you are blowing out main seals with the stock pulley you might have a piston ring issue. I would have a compression test done on your engine.

I have had my Whipple for a year and put about 5k miles on it so far...no leaks or blown seals. Custom tune with LS3 crank seal, catch can, and metco valve cover breather.

Ok thanks KingLT1 for the recommendation. I will have the shop do a compression check when I bring it in. It's running very strong still on the Whipple tune. I did have a LS3 front seal put in already. I've read on the forum here that the LT1 seals are weak and the shop's tuner told me that some boost gets by the rings in lower mileage engines? I thought there wasn't much risk to damaging the pistons unless you increase boost? I'll look into getting a catch can and breather.

[EDFHOBBIES]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I am just sharing experience my friend.

I had a 1996 Z28 M6 that I put a P1SC procharger on back in 2002. One of the first to run a Procharger in the area. Back then it was claimed you could run a STOCK tune with a supplied fuel management unit that simply restricted the return fuel line and increased fuel pressure as boost increased. It worked but ran rich...I decided it would be better to get a proper tune. So I ordered a mail order tune(popular at the time due to limited resources) for the car from a well recognized company at the time. Guess what, I installed it(swapped pcm's), then went out and made a couple pulls. Engine blew a head gasket. So I ended up taking it to a shop and come to find out, the mail order company sent me a NA tune for another car. That cost me 5k...The tune company refunded me the tune only. Back then there was no HPtuners...data-logging was unheard of. You had to use LS1/LT1 edit which was not user friendly unless you were a computer geek.

The mail order tune happen to be in Oklahoma called fast proms?


In 2020 it's is a entirely different ball game...the tools are out there so even a novice in the hobby can take the necessary measures to make sure the setup is proper with a little bit of research.

I am not trying to bash a guy when he is down...I am trying to send a message to all that read this. Don't buy into the "Bolt a supercharger on and go" claim that these companies try to sell. Before you ever go FI, you SHOULD purchase HPtuners and a AEM wideband. Then start learning how to log data. It will save you a lot of money in the long run. Even getting a professional dyno tune doesn't mean that your setup is optimized. I have fixed plenty of those so called tunes for guys and I am just a nobody that tries to share info and experiences on the internet to help others save time, hassle, and money.

The mail order tune happen to be in Oklahoma called fast proms?