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Old 04-16-2017, 06:56 PM   #85
Michigan1LTRS
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Great job!! This turbo Camaro is kicking some booty!!
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Old 04-16-2017, 06:59 PM   #86
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You look like you are on a rail. Amazing handling!!!
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Old 04-17-2017, 05:04 PM   #87
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Thank you for the re-cap & videos Mark! Looking forward to seeing the outcome in Lincoln in September.

Coming back to the ATS coupe question: Any thoughts on it's competitiveness given that it's about 50-100 pounds heavier but has an inch less wheelbase, length and width with approximately the same power output? Also I believe the ATS is running a wide rear wheel (18x9).
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Old 04-23-2017, 10:31 PM   #88
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Mark @race2win knocked it out of the park at Crow's Landing Pro Solo -- first in DS by a wide margin, then all the way to the Super Challenge finale, running times that would have stood up in STX, STR, STU, BS, etc. Congrats! A big deal, and long a goal of Mark's.

Conemark, I have one of those Caddy things. It's probably very competitive in the right hands. Feel free to ping me w questions
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Old 04-24-2017, 12:53 PM   #89
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Mark @race2win knocked it out of the park at Crow's Landing Pro Solo -- first in DS by a wide margin, then all the way to the Super Challenge finale, running times that would have stood up in STX, STR, STU, BS, etc. Congrats! A big deal, and long a goal of Mark's.

Conemark, I have one of those Caddy things. It's probably very competitive in the right hands. Feel free to ping me w questions
Congratulations to Mark! So glad this platform and powertrain combination are working out well!
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Old 05-09-2017, 08:21 AM   #90
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Nice job mark!

almost bought a 2.0t for autoX and you have proven it to be competitive, but my heart was set on a 1ss in FS for now
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Old 05-25-2017, 06:56 PM   #91
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Back in Camaro (red this time!).

Tires/wheels and alignment so far. Got -2.1 up front without much trouble.

Not sure if you'd call it an exhaust, but a single-exit straight pipe out back. Actually sounds pretty good to me, and about 30 pounds lighter.


Last edited by destoups; 05-26-2017 at 11:36 AM.
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Old 05-26-2017, 06:54 AM   #92
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Back in Camaro (red this time!).

Tires/wheels and alignment so far. Got -2.1 up front without much trouble.

Not sure if you'd call it an exhaust, but a single-exit straight pipe out back. Actually sounds pretty good to me, and about 30 pounds lighter.
Nice, some pics of the exhaust?
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Old 05-26-2017, 09:01 AM   #93
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Originally Posted by destoups View Post
Back in Camaro (red this time!).

Tires/wheels and alignment so far. Got -2.1 up front without much trouble.

Not sure if you'd call it an exhaust, but a single-exit straight pipe out back. Actually sounds pretty good to me, and about 30 pounds lighter.
Congrats on the new Camaro, good luck Des
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Old 06-18-2017, 05:34 PM   #94
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Time for an update, my apologies as life has been pretty busy not leaving much time for forum posting

Since my last update after the Fontana Pro Solo a lot has happened! Here is a quick re-cap...
  • SCCA Crows Landing Pro Solo - 1st in D-Street, the #2 qualifier for the Super Challenge, and made it all the way to the Final and coned away the potential overall win!
  • SCCA Crows Landing Championship Tour - First in D-Street by almost 4-seconds (the courses were not only awesome for the car, but they were right in my wheelhouse as well).
  • Good Guys All American Get Together - 3rd place overall in the Top-16 shootout, and the 4th fastest time out of 67 cars! This was against some of the fastest CAM/Pro-Touring style Muscle Cars in the country.
As was the case in SoCal earlier this season, the above results have been accomplished with a completely stock car with only Bridgestone RE-71R tires, light-weight wheels, and a self-done "garage" alignment

Here are some videos for you...
Crows Tour Day-1

Crows Tour Day-2

Good Guys

Sorry, no Crows Pro videos due to camera issues...

Next up I'm going to do some posts detailing parts upgrades and set-up how-tos, time to kick up the development a notch to prepare for the SCCA National Championships in Lincoln NE this September
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Old 06-18-2017, 07:05 PM   #95
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Time for an update, my apologies as life has been pretty busy not leaving much time for forum posting

...

Next up I'm going to do some posts detailing parts upgrades and set-up how-tos, time to kick up the development a notch to prepare for the SCCA National Championships in Lincoln NE this September


Awesome!
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Old 06-19-2017, 03:46 PM   #96
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Pretty impressive! Keep up the good work!
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:53 PM   #97
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Hey everyone, I recently bought a 2016 1LT base model 2.0T 6-speed manual for the purpose of competing in SCCA Autocross events in the D-Street class. I thought I would start a new thread highlighting my build process, as well as a place where other 2.0T owners can share set-up information and results. (sorry in advance for the long read)

A little background on me, I've been autocrossing almost 25 years in Northern CA, and have owned/driven too many car to count. My last car (still have it, it's for sale ) was a 2013 Ford Focus ST, I purchased it new and set it up to compete in the G-Street class. I was fortunate enough to hook up with Sam Strano from Strano Performance Parts (stranoparts.com), together we developed a great rear sway bar for that car that helped me win back-to-back National Championships in 2014 & 2015.
Thanks Mark,

I really appreciate your videos along with the technical insights for each SCCA classes- limitations and tricks.

Keep up the low times!
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Old 06-21-2017, 09:50 PM   #98
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Simple Garage Alignment

OK, here is the first in a series of upcoming posts outlining some set-up tricks and upgrades. These apply to the Gen6 2.0T LTG and optimizing it for the SCCA D-Street class, but some of these apply to any Gen6 Camaro.

As most of you know, so far this season my car has been very successful with just wheels/tires and my "garage" alignment. Here are the details on what I did to optimize the factory alignment settings to gain maximum negative camber, which greatly improved turn-in feel and front grip.

The SCCA rulebook allows any alignment spec within the factory specified range, using factory specified adjustment procedures. Some manufacturers allow for "crash bolts" (cam-bolts) or "slotting" in the bolt holes to compensate for bent components due to crash damage. Unfortunately Chevy does not have any such procedures specified in the FSM.

However, you are allowed to loosen up the nuts/bolts and "move" the components to take up the tolerance in the bolt holes, and there is a surprising amount of tolerance in the lower front strut bolts.


The large nuts/bolts in the center of the picture are the lower strut bolts, this process is as simple as this...
  1. Jack up the car (don't forget a good jack pad disc or pinch-weld adapter)
  2. Remove the front wheel.
  3. Loosen both of those nuts (cant remember the size, either 17mm or 19mm I think).
  4. The bolts are splined, and the strut housing will be tight against the knuckle mounting surface, so you need to tap the bolts back towards the rear of the car to loosen the assembly (don't completely remove the bolts). I backed out the nuts so they were just flush with the end of the bolt, then put a 2x4 against it and tapped with a hammer.
  5. Once the bolts have been tapped back a bit it will loosen the whole assembly. With the bolts still in there grab the base of the strut just above the knuckle and push it hard straight towards the engine. Depending on how your car was aligned at the factory, it can move quite a bit. By doing this it "tilts" the top axis of the front wheel in gaining more negative camber.
  6. While holding it firmly, run the nuts back in and tighten them up. On the driver side you may need to hold the strut very firmly while tightening because of the direction you are turning the nut may want to bring it all back out again.
This technique will gain you maximum negative camber out of a totally stock car, which should be between -1.5 and -2.0 degrees.

Please note, since the tie-rods attach to the front of the hub assembly, moving everything in like this will create some toe-out. I measured about 1/8" total toe-out after doing this procedure. This works OK for me since my car is pretty much a dedicated autocross car and I don't drive it much on the street. Toe-out can help turn-in feel a lot, but it will also wear out tires prematurely and make the car feel "nervous" on the street. Moral of the story is to take the car to an alignment shop after completing this procedure to get toe specs where you want them.

I will be taking my car to my alignment guru this weekend to get fine tuned, so more to come on D-Street 2.0T alignment tricks!!
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