Hellion top mount twin turbo heat issues

[Better Performance]

My 2010 2SS L99 has some heat related issues that I'm wondering if anyone else with a similar build has experienced and has had any luck correcting. The configuration I'm working with is a hellion top mount 64 ball bearing kit with wrapped headers and coated down pipes. Engine is stock block sleeved, forged and thermal coated 427 with 1/2" head studs and trick flow CNC heads, and Stage 2 blower cam, belt driven crankcase vacuum pump. Fuel system is Squash dual fuel return with AEM rails and ID1300 injectors. E85 tune. 4L80 Trans with 2800 billet triple disc, driveshaft shop axles and propeller shaft, 3.45 gears with Wavetrac diff. Using methanol injection to cool boost. I have hood vents cut in. The issue I'm having is primarily the #3 plug wire. I relocated the coils below and was able to route all of the ignition wires with 90° accel ceramic boots below the headers except for #3. I started out with a 35° boot with heat shielding around the wire and routed the wire over the valve cover and down by the p/s pump. After a short drive with minimal thrashing, I would notice a misfire under a heavier acceleration, and found the wire had burned from the boot about 2 "up. It is my belief that the heat build up in the pocket of the pipes meeting the collector in that area is being pulled up through the hood vents in turn cooking this wire. The rest of the ignition wires are closer to the header than this one is and are fine. The second issue is the temp sensor is having issues as the under hood temps rise, sometimes setting an open circuit code.
My thoughts are to modify the header to accommodate the #3 wire to be able to have a 90° boot and run below like the others, and to relocate the temp sensor to the passenger rear cylinder head where there is way more clearance away from the header.
Any thoughts, or other problems experienced by anyone? One more thing I will add is that the heat wrap on the headers is deteriorating fairly quickly considering that the build only has a few hundred miles on it.

[1KillerSS]

Check out the Huron speed thread located a few threads below yours, in the forced induction section. located here:


http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=425169

Read that thread, they fight it all the time. They are burning wires too. Some of them have solved it, at least for a while anyway. DEI makes thermal blankets for the wires, I think.

**EDIT** Sorry if you can't find it in that thread, check this one out.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=445782

[ttshovel]

I was having issues with the the plug wires with just headers until I switched to the msd multi angle wires. you can bend the boots however you need them to be

[Better Performance]

I have tried all sorts of different wires including the good MSD wires with the adjustable grey high temp boots, and many different configurations of heat shielding. The Accel Extreme 9000 Ceramic wires with the remote coils seems to be as good as it gets. I was able to get #3 wire with a 90° boot on today by trimming the head stud (I added 1/2" head studs and installed the additional ones on the outside edge that the trick flow heads accommodate) back to the top of the nut, and by massaging the top of the header tube to allow it to installed and removed with great effort, instead of being impossible without loosening or removing the header.

One thing I thought of with the temp sensor relocation is raising the question if it will still have an accurate reading on the back of the passenger cylinder head or not... any thoughts or experience?

I will go over the thread suggested tonight when I have a little more time.
Right now I am trying to put the final touches on another '10 L99 that has a fresh forged and coated 416 with Texas Speed stage 2 blower cam, TVS2300, Squash dual fuel, ID850's, etc,etc. Gotta have it ready for tuning appt at Speed INC this weekend...

Thanks for the quick replies, I will definitely have some feedback to post in the next day or so on the success of epic failure of this round of top mount heat management.

[Better Performance]

1killerSS, I got through that thread and see what you are talking about. My problem with the hellion kit was I couldn't do anything with #3 plug wire other than run it over the top because the header design did not allow the plug boot to go below the header, it had to be over the top and sitting in the inferno pocet, as I like to call it. I have my fingers crossed that my mod does the trick. As soon as I figure out how to post pictures I will show the before and after. The remote coil mount took care of all of the issues I was having with plug wires except for #3, I don't care to remember how many $$ worth of top quality wires I went through with the coils in stock location.... painful.

[SeaCompiler]

Dealing with heat issues under a turbo hood, but still worth it.

[Unreal]

Originally Posted by SeaCompiler

Dealing with heat issues under a turbo hood, but still worth it.

Dealing with no heat issues, while making more power, more reliability sounds like a better choice to me.

It should be "dealing with heat issues because you wanted to look at your turbos or show them off in a parking lot"

[Taco Time]

Originally Posted by Better Performance

My 2010 2SS L99 has some heat related issues that I'm wondering if anyone else with a similar build has experienced and has had any luck correcting. The configuration I'm working with is a hellion top mount 64 ball bearing kit with wrapped headers and coated down pipes. Engine is stock block sleeved, forged and thermal coated 427 with 1/2" head studs and trick flow CNC heads, and Stage 2 blower cam, belt driven crankcase vacuum pump. Fuel system is Squash dual fuel return with AEM rails and ID1300 injectors. E85 tune. 4L80 Trans with 2800 billet triple disc, driveshaft shop axles and propeller shaft, 3.45 gears with Wavetrac diff. Using methanol injection to cool boost. I have hood vents cut in. The issue I'm having is primarily the #3 plug wire. I relocated the coils below and was able to route all of the ignition wires with 90° accel ceramic boots below the headers except for #3. I started out with a 35° boot with heat shielding around the wire and routed the wire over the valve cover and down by the p/s pump. After a short drive with minimal thrashing, I would notice a misfire under a heavier acceleration, and found the wire had burned from the boot about 2 "up. It is my belief that the heat build up in the pocket of the pipes meeting the collector in that area is being pulled up through the hood vents in turn cooking this wire. The rest of the ignition wires are closer to the header than this one is and are fine. The second issue is the temp sensor is having issues as the under hood temps rise, sometimes setting an open circuit code.
My thoughts are to modify the header to accommodate the #3 wire to be able to have a 90° boot and run below like the others, and to relocate the temp sensor to the passenger rear cylinder head where there is way more clearance away from the header.
Any thoughts, or other problems experienced by anyone? One more thing I will add is that the heat wrap on the headers is deteriorating fairly quickly considering that the build only has a few hundred miles on it.

Your Trick Flow CNC heads. Is that a stock head that's been CNC'd or is that an aftermarket head that's taller than stock?

[JANNETTYRACING]

I believe you will have better results with coating rather than wrapping the headers.

Ted.

[Better Performance]

The trick flow heads are aftermarket heads.

I totally hear you about the trade off for heat VS appearance. I built this car for a customer and have been dealing with this since day one. I now am the owner of the car and am trying to make it functional. I can't complain one bit about the install or fitment of parts, especially since I installed the 4L80E at the same time. The car is built with pretty close to the best of everything, just trying to get a good game plan to go with to make it reliable. The appearance under the hood is taking back seat to function, I plan to get the bugs worked out, and then make it astetically pleasing as possible.

Ted- we worked with you on this car when it was stock, my customer bought the TVS2300 that I just installed on this other L99 from you, and needless to say, it has escalated from there. I was looking around at different coatings, what would you suggest? Remember, I don't care what it looks like as long as it works. I saw Swain Industries has a chalky white coating that is .15" thick that looked tempting. My plan with the car is to figure out what power level it will support on the street, and gradually step it up as I do necessary upgrades to support the level the engine, trans, and turbos are capable of.... all of this while trying to to all of the right things once along the way. IE, I would rather overdo something now than have to redo it later.

Thanks for the input, everyone!

[Trackman]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

I believe you will have better results with coating rather than wrapping the headers.

Ted.

I have to disagree with you there. The DEI Titanium exhaust wrap is absolutely awesome at controlling heat.

[Taco Time]

Originally Posted by Better Performance

The trick flow heads are aftermarket heads.

So your heads are likely taller than the stock heads are. That's putting the plug wires closer to the headers. (I just went through all this myself... ) The shop modified my coil brackets, pushing them up and inward, that pulled the wires tighter to get them further from the headers. They then ordered a custom set of wires for my car from Fire Core with angled ceramic boots. I haven't had any issues since. The Hellion kit is a great kit. However it is made to go on a 100% stock car. It will make crazy power, easily. (If I did it again I'd have the shop fab a twin turbo kit. It would've been less headache.)

My entire hot side was ceramic coated. I then still had some of the headers heat wrapped. Other than getting the plug wires situated, I haven't had any heat issues. Good luck!

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Trackman

I have to disagree with you there. The DEI Titanium exhaust wrap is absolutely awesome at controlling heat.

I am perfectly fine with you disagreeing.

I am however curious what you base your opinion on.

Can you provide hard data that swayed your opinion?

Ted.

[SeaCompiler]

Originally Posted by Trackman

...The DEI Titanium exhaust wrap is absolutely awesome at controlling heat.

I agree. My turbo headers are ceramic coated and was no where near enough at managing heat. Now that I wrapped mine in the DEI Titanium wrap (instead of the nasty fiberglass wrap), I can literally hold my hand as close to the wrap as I can without touching it and it does not burn. It looks great, no heat issues, does not change color, cause you to itch like mad and simply works. It's expensive though and worth every $#%^! penny.