[6spdhyperblue]

Originally Posted by OVRKLL

No rush, but why hold the header if you can put a bolt on it?
However, I understand the more wiggle room reasoning.

Yeah idk why the directions tell you to bolt the header up first. I was wondering myself

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by Booher

Yup, all good, they just adjusted it a little, said it was really easy, I figured, I was just over it heh. Still has a little rattle, I'll attend to that after I get my tuning dealt with. At some points in my wiggling, the headers were further away from the motor than the any bolt would allow easily, at least from what I could tell. I did have a jack stand on the bottom of the collector holding some of the weight.

I had some interference between the drivers side header and the motor mount that caused a rattle like vibration when I reinstalled my headers after pulling the motor last winter. I had not experienced this after the initial header installation. I loosened the bolts and lifted up on the collector to eliminate the contact. It's still close, maybe .125 or so, but it never hits.

[Booher]

I'll double check that spot when I get a chance, good looking out.

[OVRKLL]

Booher....I'm going through exactly what you went through.
I got the starter back in place, but was too tired to mess with trying to bolt it up. How did you move the lines that are in the way? Did you just loosen them up?

I saw that same video from Semi Carguy where they had it up on a lift, they seem to have no problems..then again there were 3 of them to help and support. They made it look so easy!
I wonder if these cars have a slight difference depending when they came off the line.

The brake lines on the firewall was definitely in the way.



I still need to deal with the dipstick, and now I need to check inside my header for 2 bolts that went AWOL!


How are those locking clips?
And did you use the heat shield from KooKs...where does this go?
Also, what wire harness are you moving away from the headers?
I see the heater hoses are close, but they are protected.


I plan on doing the starter and dipstick today at least, then maybe start cutting the pipes to connect to the Kooks.
I was planning on using my Sawsall to do the cut, but I see EFI rented a chain cutter from Auto Zone. Looks like that may give a straighter cut.


My shoulder blades are bruised from the creeper, my hands ache, my abs are killing me, can't sneeze without pain and my arms have little cuts here and there...this is a battle for sure!


If anyone else is planning this battle here are some weapons I wish I had, and you might want to get.
1. Air or cordless ratchet
2. Deep sockets
3. At least one universal joint socket extension
4. Good lighting, a head lamp would be a good addition


Get your car as high as possible, I'm using a Quick Jack and it gives me good height, and do all that you can while under the car to prevent up and down...unless you want a good ab work out.
And do this while you're young, like under 60 at least...LOL!!

[Booher]

Yes, there is a bracket that holds two lines near the bottom of the block maybe. Just follow the lines it is easy to find. I'll be under there later today, putting in my 02 sensors I'll try to remember and take a pic. Barely put a bolt in the top of the header to allow you to wiggle the headers to get the starter in. The starter went in vertically then I rotated it into its place. Those nasty brakelines, I hated those. If its stock exhaust you can sawzall, if its aftermarket like my borla cat delete you need something stronger, I used a grinder on mine. You can also pull thr metal plate out by bending the little tab up front
Its really easy and helps out alot. Good luck man, the battle is half over. Lmk if you need anything else, I'll try my best to help with the struggle lol. I told my exhaust guy, it took me 20 hours, he laughed, well when I got the car back with my new bung on it, he says he understands why lol

[Booher]

Oh something I never knew and it confusing. If you are running cats you need 3 bungs in your header. When people say you dont need another one for cats they are wrong. That is very important, that no one says. You must run both stock primary sensors and then you have to have another spot for your wideband to tune. I think that is almost all headers tbh, I haven't seen many with 3 in them. Dont put them after your cats, and make sure your exhaust guy knows where to put it
A member on here helped.me out with that as my exhaust guy didnt know anything about a wideband sensor.

[Texan4iu]

Happy Thanksgiving all. Thanks for all of the info on this thread. I’m getting ready to install 2” TSP Headers with Off Road X-Pipe, along with Stainless Works Redline Axelback. Pray Performance suggested 2” so that’s what I’m doing (I know there’s been a lot of discussion about 1 7/8” vs 2”). Any issues or concerns I should look out for? Also, I’ve heard a couple others have issues with heat messing up their Starter. Any suggestions to prevent that issue? I thought about ceramic coating the Headers, but would rather not if I could keep from spending the extra money.

[enzia35]

I plan on wrapping the starter with the blanket and getting the headers coated.

[Booher]

I bought a heat blanket for the starter, but I didnt put it on, but I didnt want to mess with it as I was frustrated at the time. I did however put heat tape on the starter cover though, which I recommend to everyone. Plus coating your headers help alot as well. So I have a starter blanket for sale, of anyone wants hah.

[Booher]

I got under my car today to replace my sensors and got to see the exhaust shops work. It's a little boogered up, but he didnt take much of my coating off, so I'm happy about that. Seems like so many sensors now lol. 3 on the driverside and two on the passenger side. I'm hoping it will help dial in the tune better at least. Last pic showes the bracket to remove to allow more movement in those lines. Definitely helps with putting the starter back in. I hope you guys are making good progress on yours! Theres a winter storm here today so I cant data log, hopefully tomorrow though. All three sensors are reading on hp tuners now as well, so hopefully no more hiccups. Wait, is there and echo in here? Lol

[OVRKLL]

So your Borla hooked up to the Kooks ok?


And what is the third sensor for...tuning?


What happens if I don't install one, CEL?


All went well today for the most part...key word is "Part"!

[OVRKLL]

Hey Booher, thanks for the heads up on where you found your bolts...mine were there also!

[Booher]

Hah, that spot loves to eat bolts, I'm glad it helped! They connect pretty well, but you have to cut them, I recommend something stronger than a sawzall, like a chain cutter maybe, I used a grinder which worked quite well. Yes, the third sensor is for my wideband sensor, which is needed for tuning. If you dont install a wideband? Well the other option is a clamp that goes onto your muffler that you can use on a dyno, but I'm pretty sure all tuners require a wideband.