[parish8]

i am looking at doing the drop in rods and piston set up and plan on cranking it up over 1000hp. Here is the minimum plans.

Rod and piston kit
Cam, dod delete kit, springs, phase lock or limiter
Head studs

That’s about $4k. What am I missing? Patrick g is going to spec out a cam for me. It will have the 32% fuel lobe.

Are the lt4 head gaskets any better and do they work on an lt1? Do the valves in the heads need upgraded? Should I do main studs and can you just bolt them in without any machine work?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by parish8

i am looking at doing the drop in rods and piston set up and plan on cranking it up over 1000hp. Here is the minimum plans.

Rod and piston kit
Cam, dod delete kit, springs, phase lock or limiter
Head studs

That’s about $4k. What am I missing? Patrick g is going to spec out a cam for me. It will have the 32% fuel lobe.

Are the lt4 head gaskets any better and do they work on an lt1? Do the valves in the heads need upgraded? Should I do main studs and can you just bolt them in without any machine work?

Machine work is a must to fit all the parts together.

Ted.

[parish8]

After doing some research it looks like the main studs would require machine work so they are out.

The drop in piston and rod combo isn’t suppose to need anything but a light hone and file fit the rings. I can do that stuff in my garage.

[Redlinez]

Wow, PatrickG is still at it!

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by parish8

After doing some research it looks like the main studs would require machine work so they are out.

The drop in piston and rod combo isn’t suppose to need anything but a light hone and file fit the rings. I can do that stuff in my garage.

I mean no disrespect when I say this, this is no Briggs and Straton.

Don't get caught up in the sales pitch for a 1000 HP combo stuff needs to be done right.

A Torque plate hone to set piston to wall clearance is required.

Blueprint and balancing is required as well.

Ted.

[Perdieu]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

I mean no disrespect when I say this, this is no Briggs and Straton.

Don't get caught up in the sales pitch for a 1000 HP combo stuff needs to be done right.

A Torque plate hone to set piston to wall clearance is required.

Blueprint and balancing is required as well.

Ted.

No disrespect, but there are a few guys well over 950 to the tire with just a light ball hone and drop in rods and pistons (Cunningham Motorsports set up)

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Perdieu

No disrespect, but there are a few guys well over 950 to the tire with just a light ball hone and drop in rods and pistons (Cunningham Motorsports set up)

Non taken.

I take the position, just because someone else gets away with it doesn't make it right.

If I am going to break and engine down it is going to get a blueprint and balance job even it I don't change any parts. NHRA stocker tricks.

Ted.

[parish8]

I will be sure and let everyone know how it does. Plan is to turn it strait to 1000rwhp and work up from there over time.

Anyone else have any other suggestions i might want to consider while it is out?

I am getting the 42 auto sports trans upgrade.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by parish8

I will be sure and let everyone know how it does. Plan is to turn it strait to 1000rwhp and work up from there over time.

Anyone else have any other suggestions i might want to consider while it is out?

I am getting the 42 auto sports trans upgrade.

You may want to do that ARP hardware

[Turbo_RORO]

Originally Posted by parish8

I will be sure and let everyone know how it does. Plan is to turn it strait to 1000rwhp and work up from there over time.

Anyone else have any other suggestions i might want to consider while it is out?

I am getting the 42 auto sports trans upgrade.

Hey Parish8, I'm pretty sure that you have seen my thread. I used the CMS drop in parts. My motor had 6kish miles at teardown and the factory crosshatch as still visible. I did not do ARP main studs. But I do have ARP headstuds. Not sure what power the car makes. Should be right about 1000(crank). So far so good. While I drive it EVERY DAY I do not rev it beyond 6800.

[SC88]

Originally Posted by Turbo_RORO

Hey Parish8, I'm pretty sure that you have seen my thread. I used the CMS drop in parts. My motor had 6kish miles at teardown and the factory crosshatch as still visible. I did not do ARP main studs. But I do have ARP headstuds. Not sure what power the car makes. Should be right about 1000(crank). So far so good. While I drive it EVERY DAY I do not rev it beyond 6800.

do you know if you can pull heads on and off with the motor in the car and head studs installed?

[DFW1LE]

Curious about LT-4 head gaskets vs LT-1. I believe the LT-4 are a thicker multi-layer design, so for a blown application, I would think you would want LT-4 gaskets.

[Turbo_RORO]

Originally Posted by SC88

do you know if you can pull heads on and off with the motor in the car and head studs installed?

I don't think that you can pull the heads with head studs in the car.

[Turbo_RORO]

Originally Posted by DFW1LE

Curious about LT-4 head gaskets vs LT-1. I believe the LT-4 are a thicker multi-layer design, so for a blown application, I would think you would want LT-4 gaskets.

I do not think they are interchangeable. There is a issue that I cant remember right now. I also believe they are the same thickness. Also the head stud kit is different for LT1 to LT4. I think the difference is in the bolts. I think the LT4 has more bead bolts.