[Lemosine]

Okay so you can see the mods in my sig... anyone with similar mods do you really notice much of a difference compared to stock? I hardly notice the difference I figured it would be day and night difference especially after a tune but maybe I am expecting too much? I should of tested more pre tune to help compare. So after being tuned felt like I was fooling myself saying its faster because I wanted to believe it. I downloaded a g-force application on my phone (I know it can not calculate true G's but it can compare numbers still on the pull). So on pump it showed me the following. I feel like I may have expected more.. not power but more feeling on the butt dyno if you get where im coming from.

2nd gear 0.53 on E 0.55
3rd gear 0.36 on E 0.42
4Th gear 0. 27 on E 0.34

[Red Hot 2017 SS]

I’ve notice a big difference in my car TSP 1 7/8 with no cats K&N Cold Air Dry Filter and Dyno Tune but it’s a 8 Speed Auto

[Lemosine]

Originally Posted by Red Hot 2017 SS

I’ve notice a big difference in my car TSP 1 7/8 with no cats K&N Cold Air Dry Filter and Dyno Tune but it’s a 8 Speed Auto

My main thing is E85 compared to my normal pump tune it seems hardly any difference. Im wondering if they tuned me for pump and didn't tune me on E85? maybe they just activated the sensor. I would assume if so you can still run It with the tables already in the computer. I was also told I made 504HP and that really confused me because with the mods I have I expected 460-475 maybe? Also this is a HUB/Chassis dyno and is known to read lower than a Dyno Jet and a Mustang Dyno, its called Mainline popular dyno in Australia. I have noting against the shop they were all nice and respectful seem to work on a lot of LS engine cars. Awesome guys, just confused I guess and sorta needed to vent. I kinda was thinking if you have 504 HP would you lose traction going WOT in 2nd gear maybe in mid RPM range or at least chirp the tires?

[oldman]

Originally Posted by Lemosine

My main thing is E85 compared to my normal pump tune it seems hardly any difference. Im wondering if they tuned me for pump and didn't tune me on E85? maybe they just activated the sensor. I would assume if so you can still run It with the tables already in the computer. I was also told I made 504HP and that really confused me because with the mods I have I expected 460-475 maybe? Also this is a HUB/Chassis dyno and is known to read lower than a Dyno Jet and a Mustang Dyno, its called Mainline popular dyno in Australia. I have noting against the shop they were all nice and respectful seem to work on a lot of LS engine cars. Awesome guys, just confused I guess and sorta needed to vent. I kinda was thinking if you have 504 HP would you lose traction going WOT in 2nd gear maybe in mid RPM range or at least chirp the tires?

Hub dynos read higher in general because there is no loss via the heavy tires and friction to the rollers. Since you can't race dynos, only a dynojet which measure actual HP needed to spin up actual rollers yields any HP that can be though about as universal. All these eddy current dynos (using programmable electrical loads) can spit out literally any HP reading. Some makes sense for instance there are Bosch dynos that can measure drivetrain friction, this can be added back into the dyno to yield true crank HP.

Ill say this E85 outside of a cam is the single biggest power adder NA, so either your sensor is not working or the tune is not. You should be able to check you HPTuner software and there is a read out for E85 content.

[Lemosine]

Originally Posted by oldman

Hub dynos read higher in general because there is no loss via the heavy tires and friction to the rollers. Since you can't race dynos, only a dynojet which measure actual HP needed to spin up actual rollers yields any HP that can be though about as universal. All these eddy current dynos (using programmable electrical loads) can spit out literally any HP reading. Some makes sense for instance there are Bosch dynos that can measure drivetrain friction, this can be added back into the dyno to yield true crank HP.

Ill say this E85 outside of a cam is the single biggest power adder NA, so either your sensor is not working or the tune is not. You should be able to check you HPTuner software and there is a read out for E85 content.

Interesting, I read that, that dyno reads lower but you make 100% sense. I don't have an HP, I am most likely going to purchase one and check that way (I hope they did not lock the tune). I know the sensor is activated and getting a reading because my scan gauge is reading the alcohol content (depending where i go its 75 - 78%)where if the sensor was not on then it would not read anything.

Maybe if I get an HP I can get someone with experience to look at it and read my logs.

[Gen5&Beyond]

Something isn't right. You should notice the night/day difference you are referring to. I also started with similar mod's as yours and thought the car wasn't performing as well as others I'd been reading about. Come to find out it was the tune. I'm not about to talk bad about anyone that's not who I am. I had Brett at Pray Performance re-tune my car and It picked up what I was missing. Mine is a A8 so part of my tune was the transmission. That was my experience.

[USAFS197]

Your first indication of it being the tune is the difference, or lack thereof, between pump and E85. I would get a tune elsewhere.

[Lemosine]

Yeah I think i will have to do that. I don't need the stock tune in order for another tuner to make any needed adjustments right? They used an HP on it.

[KingLT1]

E85 is not going to make any difference in power alone. The power comes from being able to increase timing. In Hp tuners, go to Spark, Flex fuel Spark and see if the table has been adjusted correctly. Should be upwards of 4 degrees of advance in that table. The increased timing is what nets the power gain. You should be seeing 27-28 degrees total at wot on E. There are other tables that need addressed as well.

[danhr]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

E85 is not going to make any difference in power alone. The power comes from being able to increase timing. In Hp tuners, go to Spark, Flex fuel Spark and see if the table has been adjusted correctly. Should be upwards of 4 degrees of advance in that table. The increased timing is what nets the power gain. You should be seeing 27-28 degrees total at wot on E. There are other tables that need addressed as well.

Ummmm I think I saw 20* of timing in my stock tune.

And I think the 27-28* of timing is about the max for 93 octane.

[PRAY]

Originally Posted by danhr

Ummmm I think I saw 20* of timing in my stock tune.

And I think the 27-28* of timing is about the max for 93 octane.

From my experience your not going to get any more than 24* in the car on pump without seeing some sort of KR. The prime point for E seems to be 26-28* depending on the car. The oxygen in the E will give some gains but the couple of degrees of timing does the rest of the work.

[danhr]

Originally Posted by PRAY

From my experience your not going to get any more than 24* in the car on pump without seeing some sort of KR. The prime point for E seems to be 26-28* depending on the car. The oxygen in the E will give some gains but the couple of degrees of timing does the rest of the work.

Really? I haven't starters cracking into mine yet (getting some warranty work done first). But it's kinda surprising it only takes that much timing.

[DFW1LE]

What was the e content in your tank when the car was tuned? Perhaps the tune needs an adjustment if you weren't > 60% e.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by danhr

Really? I haven't starters cracking into mine yet (getting some warranty work done first). But it's kinda surprising it only takes that much timing.

Yes....Really.

Originally Posted by DFW1LE

What was the e content in your tank when the car was tuned? Perhaps the tune needs an adjustment if you weren't > 60% e.

With flex sensor, E content is reported to the ECM, ECM then adjusts Stoich, PE, and timing values based on E percentage it sees. So if he was seeing 78%, then he should be netting 95% of the gains unless his Stoich, PE, or Flex fuel spark tables are not setup correct. Even if Ethanol content was below 60%, the ECM should correct it automatically being it has tables from 0-100%. So you don't have to tune for a specific percentage...that is the whole point of a flex fuel sensor.