[lt4camaro]

Heat soak is not going to affect the performance that much and I would think the OP was aware how hot the engine has gotten and where his temps were when he made that bad pass. The 10 speed auto cars have a trans cooler , for that matter all auto trans cars have always had trans coolers, Radiator is the same size as a SS radiator, all LT1s have a engine oil cooler and a diff cooler is not necessary on a mechanical limited slip diff, only the ELSD which is for road course duty. Something out of whack for sure and suspect a loss of 50hp to cause that much of a performance difference as if the ecm pulled a ton of timing out of the car.

[shaffe]

Like others said it would be hard to figure out without data logs.

I am going to guess it has something to do with the longer burnout and car just getting hot. There is really no reason to do a long burnout on street tires. I don't care what anyone says your just wasting rubber doing a long burn out on street tires. All you need is a quick spin to clear any debris off them.

[BlackV6RS]

Originally Posted by shaffe

Like others said it would be hard to figure out without data logs.

I am going to guess it has something to do with the longer burnout and car just getting hot. There is really no reason to do a long burnout on street tires. I don't care what anyone says your just wasting rubber doing a long burn out on street tires. All you need is a quick spin to clear any debris off them.

I'm running M/T SS drag radials

[shaffe]

Originally Posted by BlackV6RS

I'm running M/T SS drag radials

Ok I assumed you were on the stock tires because

Originally Posted by BlackV6RS

Also to note, the car is all stock with 15,000 miles

In that case, again without seeing data logs it will be hard to determine. is it possible you messed up your launch technique? Seems like you lost quite a bit on the 60' from your best pass to your worst pass there is lot's of variables. Only one we have right now for the bad pass is you did a longer burnout. Did you notice any spin on the bad pass at launch? Losing 3/10s on the 60 will for sure have an effect on the top end but there is a lot of variables to consider.

[Zr8000]

Are you using the launch control? There is different settings in it. If it got changed around it would cause car to fall on its face out of the hole and kill 60 times

[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by FlukeSS

Heat soak? Remember LT1's do not have the extra cooling systems like the SS's and 1LE's do if I am not mistaken?

No big deal for the LT1. Unless the driver is hotlapping there is usually plenty of time for a drag cool off. It is on a track with curves and hotlapping where the extra SS cooling pays off.

My LT1 M6 is 2 tenths faster than my 2016 M6 SS with the same tires and Rotofab setup. In the SS, lots of 12.3s. But no faster.

With the LT1 it ran a good number of 12.10s. For sure in good air the LT1 would have touched the 11s. Not only that but my LT1 ran right with a semipro driven A10 2020 Coyote also with Tires and a CAI. But with any small mistake in the M6 LT1 The Rustang would eat my lunch. Fun!

[BlackV6RS]

I'm going back to the track on the 17th, I guess we'll see if the car is back to where it was..

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

I'm well aware of that since I have an Lt1 and as I made 3 passes in a row the heat soak was obvious since I couldn't open the hood as I was running True Street at the NMCA event. A 10 degree increase in Temps from 76 to 86 and DA went from 2100 to 2900 my car slowed down a tenth and a half but the mph didn't drop as the car starting cooling down track but it killed my 60ft and 1/8 mile. Just too much heat under the hood. His is extreme losing a full second and 6 mph.

Are you guys removing the under the hood part of the hood scoop/extracted? It does help getting rid of the heat when you just have the just the grill in place.

Also make sure you have not locked in your settings in the screen area. Hitting the mode switching would do nothing if you are locked in a setting.

[lt4camaro]

Originally Posted by shaffe

Like others said it would be hard to figure out without data logs.

I am going to guess it has something to do with the longer burnout and car just getting hot. There is really no reason to do a long burnout on street tires. I don't care what anyone says your just wasting rubber doing a long burn out on street tires. All you need is a quick spin to clear any debris off them.

The OP would have be doing a very long burnout to overheat so much to affect his ET and Trap that much.

[BlackV6RS]

Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2

Are you guys removing the under the hood part of the hood scoop/extracted? It does help getting rid of the heat when you just have the just the grill in place.

Also make sure you have not locked in your settings in the screen area. Hitting the mode switching would do nothing if you are locked in a setting.

What do you mean locked in a setting?

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by BlackV6RS

What do you mean locked in a setting?

You can go to settings and choose and lock what ever modes you want. On the centre screen. Basically it’s like and override on your centre console button. I would suggest you take off chosen settings and put on auto selection when you want to go competition mode.

https://youtu.be/LwdkRahv9Z8

[lt4camaro]

Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2

Are you guys removing the under the hood part of the hood scoop/extracted? It does help getting rid of the heat when you just have the just the grill in place.

Also make sure you have not locked in your settings in the screen area. Hitting the mode switching would do nothing if you are locked in a setting.

I certainly do, hood insulator also. Removes about 3lbs also

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by lt4camaro

I certainly do, hood insulator also. Removes about 3lbs also

I like seeing stuff like that. Nice job.

[lt4camaro]

Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2

I like seeing stuff like that. Nice job.

Its great when someone notices.... I also run a 180 stat and have zero issues with heat.