[cmitchell17]

My 2017 SS was built in I think March, it had loose oil pan bolts from the factory, I drove it I think like 60k before I noticed the leak enough to go under there and tighten them down.

Did you check the pan bolts?

Also I have never heard of the oil cooler o-rings going bad?

[17MaroSS]

Originally Posted by cmitchell17

My 2017 SS was built in I think March, it had loose oil pan bolts from the factory, I drove it I think like 60k before I noticed the leak enough to go under there and tighten them down.

Did you check the pan bolts?

Also I have never heard of the oil cooler o-rings going bad?

Pan bolts seemed fine. Just concerned about front and rear main seals.

Anyone have torque specs for these pan area bolts?

[avalonandl]

Mine was a pinhole leak in my WIX filter......nothing but AC for me....It would have been covered by GM....

[cmitchell17]

Check your oil cooler coolant hose coming out of the adapter on the block going to the radiator where it turns into about a 6in rubber line. Mine randomly failed, and I had to limp my car home after mine leaked out all the coolant and I had to limp it home and hopefully didn't warp the heads or anything like that.

I know the reasons why things like forgetting to tighten pan bolts and simple rubber coolant hoses failing, but I won't mention it. If you were someone who didn't know about cars you would be taking it in for stuff like that, and the dealer would be trying to get as much money from warranty claims from GM, and a repair place would be doing the same and claiming "you need a new motor" and you would be claiming the car is unreliable and is crap.

[Ventmaster]

Originally Posted by 17MaroSS

Well the saga continues...


... had it up on the lift again today and it looks like the rear main seal and front main seal bolts are a little wet. Really hope I don't have to rip everything apart to replace them. I'll be watching them carefully until the next oil change. The oil cooler lines and bolts are bone dry though so that's good

Question: do the bolts for the subframe brace thing need to be torqued down? We weren't sure so just tightened snug.

The subframe brace held in place by 6, 15mm bolts should be torqued to 43lb/ft. Its also been recommended to support the trans if you're gonna have to remove the brace again. I'm always on jackstands, so I just use a block of wood and my floor jack without adverse effect.

If you're referring to the "Front Cradle Shear Plate" see page 15 here- https://ecom-dam.ext.gm.com/parts/do...s_84401187.pdf
There are alot of bits bolted under these cars!

[17MaroSS]

Originally Posted by Ventmaster

The subframe brace held in place by 6, 15mm bolts should be torqued to 43lb/ft. Its also been recommended to support the trans if you're gonna have to remove the brace again. I'm always on jackstands, so I just use a block of wood and my floor jack without adverse effect.

If you're referring to the "Front Cradle Shear Plate" see page 15 here- https://ecom-dam.ext.gm.com/parts/do...s_84401187.pdf
There are alot of bits bolted under these cars!

Perfect thank you!

But what do you mean by "support the trans"?

[Ventmaster]

Originally Posted by 17MaroSS

Perfect thank you!

But what do you mean by "support the trans"?

Sorry, the initial 43ft/lb spec is for the trans cross member that is located further towards the back of the car than I think you're working. It can be seen on page 7 of this PDF for installing Hurst's short shifter- https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...hifter+install

[17MaroSS]

Thanks Ventmaster!