[ThirdGenNut]

EDIT: This is a 2020 model year.
I know the signal has to be tapped behind the glovebox.
Do the rear speakers have full bandwidth?
Does it make fake engine noises?
Is there a T wiring harness available so I don't have to cut anything?
Adding
audiocontrol lc7i
pdx-v9
MB Quart zc1-216
Stock rears
Pair of DVC rockford 10's
Not interested in overpriced plug'n play equipment

Thanks

[ThirdGenNut]

Didn't get any useful info from you chevy guys (no shocker) so I paid $530 and took it to a shop.
There are no mic's in the doors, android auto and bluetooth phone calls still work. Amp doesn't trigger unless I start the car. (I think they used the lc7i wrong.)
Stock head unit sounds great. The Mb quarts sound better than my klipsch speakers in my house.
Veeeeeeery happy boy here.

[FragMagnet]

Originally Posted by ThirdGenNut

Didn't get any useful info from you chevy guys (no shocker) so I paid $530 and took it to a shop.
There are no mic's in the doors, android auto and bluetooth phone calls still work. Amp doesn't trigger unless I start the car. (I think they used the lc7i wrong.)
Stock head unit sounds great. The Mb quarts sound better than my klipsch speakers in my house.
Veeeeeeery happy boy here.

Congrats ! I wish I knew where they connected the power for the lc7i, and if it would work on my '17. I hate the amps powering up every time I open the door

[ThirdGenNut]

Originally Posted by FragMagnet

Congrats ! I wish I knew where they connected the power for the lc7i, and if it would work on my '17. I hate the amps powering up every time I open the door

They ran a small power wire from the 4 gauge power wire on the amp to the lc7.

This morning the lc7 stopped sending power to the turn on lead unless i have the volume maxed.

Yeah that about blew me out of the car and into the street!

Sending it back for an exchange.

[FragMagnet]

Originally Posted by ThirdGenNut

They ran a small power wire from the 4 gauge power wire on the amp to the lc7.

This morning the lc7 stopped sending power to the turn on lead unless i have the volume maxed.

Yeah that about blew me out of the car and into the street!

Sending it back for an exchange.

That would be frustrating, especially after having it working! I need to re-read the directions as I did this back in June. I'm leaning towards having a bad amplifier, as I'm chasing a whine in the system which doesn't increase in volume when you turn it up with the head unit, but it does if you adjust the gain on the amp. It's not heard on the rears or the sub, but only the fronts. The lc7i was an attempt at fixing it rather than the high level signals straight to the amp.

[ThirdGenNut]

Originally Posted by FragMagnet

That would be frustrating, especially after having it working! I need to re-read the directions as I did this back in June. I'm leaning towards having a bad amplifier, as I'm chasing a whine in the system which doesn't increase in volume when you turn it up with the head unit, but it does if you adjust the gain on the amp. It's not heard on the rears or the sub, but only the fronts. The lc7i was an attempt at fixing it rather than the high level signals straight to the amp.

I would find a better ground and send as much signal to the amp as possible. I have the gains all the way down on my amp and all the way up on the lc7 after the WOT incident.

I put a jumper from the power to the remote lead to have music until the replacement arrives. Then i just disconnect the lc7's power harness to switch everything off.

[FragMagnet]

Originally Posted by ThirdGenNut

I would find a better ground and send as much signal to the amp as possible. I have the gains all the way down on my amp and all the way up on the lc7 after the WOT incident.

Thanks, the 4 channel amp is only producing the whine on 2 channels and is grounded directly to the battery. The amp driving the sub is driven from the lc7, which creates the signal from the noisy channel, yet the sub doesn't produce the noise, and the system had the same issue before adding the lc7. If I swap f/r on the 4 channel, then the noise moves to the fronts. I live 500 miles north of Minneapolis, and the car is in storage. Even if I turn the heat on in the garage, I still need to run the car to produce the problem, which probably wouldn't be too good for the health, lol. So I have to wait before diagnosing it.

[ThirdGenNut]

Originally Posted by FragMagnet

Thanks, the 4 channel amp is only producing the whine on 2 channels and is grounded directly to the battery. The amp driving the sub is driven from the lc7, which creates the signal from the noisy channel, yet the sub doesn't produce the noise, and the system had the same issue before adding the lc7. If I swap f/r on the 4 channel, then the noise moves to the fronts. I live 500 miles north of Minneapolis, and the car is in storage. Even if I turn the heat on in the garage, I still need to run the car to produce the problem, which probably wouldn't be too good for the health, lol. So I have to wait before diagnosing it.

Bummer, good luck in the spring!

[ThirdGenNut]

Got the replacement lc7i and installed it. It actually got worse. Started to hear static and popping in the signal. Added the AudioControl AC-LGD Load Generating Device & Signal Stabilizer and it didnt do a thing.
Returning the works.
Installed a DS18 V4HL. Turns on, no static, takes a while to shut down after the radio goes off.
Lets see how long this lasts.

[Josh42089]

Originally Posted by ThirdGenNut

Didn't get any useful info from you chevy guys (no shocker) so I paid $530 and took it to a shop.
There are no mic's in the doors, android auto and bluetooth phone calls still work. Amp doesn't trigger unless I start the car. (I think they used the lc7i wrong.)
Stock head unit sounds great. The Mb quarts sound better than my klipsch speakers in my house.
Veeeeeeery happy boy here.

So what speakers did they tap into for your signal? I have tried the rear sails and a front door speaker. Can’t manage to get a signal. Using t taps.

[ThirdGenNut]

So here's an update.
The sound floor had a lot of pink noise up to 20%(ish) volume.
I backed off the preamp to get more sub signal on the back end and it popped one of my quarts even tho they (as door speakers) were not putting out as many DB's.
I don't know if my installers are hacks or if its just a GM thing.
I am So ****ing crushed over this stereo right now. Why cant Alpine give me a friggin shallow head unit?!
Wake up ALPINE and take my money!!!!!
Going to buy some full range infinities to replace the midbass drivers.

[ThirdGenNut]

Originally Posted by Josh42089

So what speakers did they tap into for your signal? I have tried the rear sails and a front door speaker. Can’t manage to get a signal. Using t taps.

I don't know what they tapped into but it goes grey, white, green, purple. and one of my drivers was out of phase. They nicked the dash. They used metra speaker adapters that rattle under 150hz. I have ground loop hum. it looks like they ran audio in and out next to the chassis power wire. and the ground is the same length as the power wire, both going back to the battery. Ground should never be the same length as power and never run signal next to power.
I gave these hacks over $500 to hook this shit up.
When I told them they were hacks they blamed my Top-of-the line JL, alpine, audiocontrol and quart equipment.

[cheeze9878]

Have you checked out the "sub thump" (one word with a .com after it, since I can't put that website on here) website for all the plug and play wiring harnesses you need? Definitely makes things a lot easier.

[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by cheeze9878

Have you checked out the "sub thump" (one word with a .com after it, since I can't put that website on here) website for all the plug and play wiring harnesses you need? Definitely makes things a lot easier.

This ^ +1 Mr Thump can't help Bose but rocks the non-Bose.

I sprung for the Bose on the LT1. Not the best, but NPP makes the most beautiful music. All it needs is a rock and roll background.