[Getnlwr]

Went to leave work on Sunday. I usually start Lil Yellow from the key fob, since I have to walk a good distance. It helps warm things up. I have never driven the car without it being atleast half way to warmed up per the gauge cluster. Currently at about 3100 miles. Still damn near like new. Completely stock except the Clear bra and windows tinted.



It didn't start. The lights flashed like it was going to start. Tried it a few times as I walked up to it. No luck.



Climbed in and hit start. It started. It sounded like it was only running on 4 cylinders. The whole car shook badly. The dash popped up with a reduced power warning and I shut it off.



Check Engine light solidly lit.



Started it again.



Same thing happened.



Started looking through my phone for tow trucks. (forgot about the little onstar button).


For shits and grins started it again. It started up fine. Ugh. Now I have no idea what's going on. Check engine light is on but not flashing. I have a bluetooth scantool with me (its always with me in the car) and hook up and it gives me 5 codes. B2AAA, P0700, P2101, U0100, U0101.



Slowly drove it home without any weird sounds or handling differences. I also didn't play with the car at all. Just a simple drive home.


Monday morning call the dealer I bought it from. Roy Robinson Chevrolet in Marysville WA. They put me on the phone with the service manager and he asks me to tell him what happened twice. He asks me to start it up in the morning ( Tuesday ) if it starts fine to drive it in to their maintenance area. If it doesn't start correctly, they will have it towed in for me. This is the second new car I have bought from them. The other was a Subaru 10 years ago.



I did note to the service writer that the car has a random missfire that sounded like a hiccup when it was idleing, and that it wasnt there before.



God help me, I like this car. But this is a bit nerve wracking.



They hand me the keys to a Colorado that is brand new and tell me they will call me in a few days. So far the dealership has been exemplary to me for service and professionalism. They also had dark silver ZL1 in the waiting area that was also an A10, just didn't have the sunroof or the carbon fiber package my car has, as well as a burnt orange ZL1 vert.



Now I am playing the waiting game.



Anyone have an idea what it could be?



Getnlwr.

[Gunkk]

Could be a bunch of things, wiring fault (short, loose pin in a plug, etc.), harness rub through at a belt or body, bad ECU, bad TCU, or possibly even just a random glitch. The car may have woken up from sleep badly and encountered a low voltage or other goofy condition. Low voltages in these cars will wreak all kinds of havoc and throw all kinds of incongruous codes.

If you still had the car, I'd suggest pulling the negative battery cable and letting the car sit for 20-30 mins to reset the computers.

Sounds like the dealer knows what they are doing, so you're in good hands.

[2018 ZL1]

I recently had a very similar problem, it was a bad spark plug wire. Dropped the car at my dealer, 2 hours later it was back at home.

[Can'tHave2MuchHP]

Originally Posted by Gunkk

Could be a bunch of things, wiring fault (short, loose pin in a plug, etc.), harness rub through at a belt or body, bad ECU, bad TCU, or possibly even just a random glitch. The car may have woken up from sleep badly and encountered a low voltage or other goofy condition. Low voltages in these cars will wreak all kinds of havoc and throw all kinds of incongruous codes.

If you still had the car, I'd suggest pulling the negative battery cable and letting the car sit for 20-30 mins to reset the computers.

Sounds like the dealer knows what they are doing, so you're in good hands.

[Getnlwr]

Just picked it up. They had some idea on what happened but cant get it to duplicate. Car has been reset and codes cleared. They more or less told me to keep a close eye on it. Ugh. I'm satisfied with what they did to diagnose. The owner of the dealership Gordy came out to talk with me. Very polite professional guy, along with the rest of his team.

[Getnlwr]

As a side note the Colorado has the option to turn the backup cam on while driving. Can we activate that on our cars?

[ZL1 affair]

Would seem your car sits a lot. Do you keep a battery tender on it? I would guess battery voltage low and ECU was having fits.

[Wierd Harold]

Last thing you want to do is erase all codes stored ,this makes it hard for a tech.sounds like you were treated good.

[OVERPAR73]

I had the same thing happen to me a couple weeks ago. Came out from work and started the car up for about 3 seconds because the motor sounded like it was going to come apart. Let it sit for about 5 minutes started it back up and ran OK but had the check engine light. Limped it home the very short trip and disconnected the neg battery overnight. Everything has reset and I have been very careful since and everything has worked with no problems after driving several short trips around town. Just going to keep my eye on everything. Please keep us informed with any updates you have on your car, thanks.

Bill

[Getnlwr]

Originally Posted by ZL1 affair

Would seem your car sits a lot. Do you keep a battery tender on it? I would guess battery voltage low and ECU was having fits.

Sits a lot? It's my daily driver! Only has 3100 miles but I bought it in April this year. It was a left over from 2018.

[Getnlwr]

Originally Posted by Wierd Harold

Last thing you want to do is erase all codes stored ,this makes it hard for a tech.sounds like you were treated good.

I didn't erase the codes. The dealer did after they tried to diagnose.

[Getnlwr]

****.

Round 2

Same issue as first happened again without the engine sputtering. Just had a CEL and the same codes as last time. I reset it myself and just figured I would wait it out and see what happened.



Today:
Round 3
Car started via remote start fine. Went to leave and the door wouldn't open. Silver push button wouldn't respond.

Keypad wouldn't do it. Tried the passenger doors as well. The car's lights would flash when I hit the button but nothing else happened. The trunk would open without an issue. Tried the phone app as well and it would just pop up with an error and wouldn't complete the command. I went back inside and got the second key fob. Same issue.



**** **** **** ****.


After the car shut off on it's own after it timed out, I remembered the press and hold for the windows to automatically roll down. That did work.



I was able to reach in and pull the handle twice and open the door. Car started fine and windows went up fine. The door lock light on the passenger side is lit up. The light on the drivers side is not lit. None of the lock and unlock commands are working. I have a $70000 car that doesn't lock now. ****. Well, atleast my works parking lot is fairly secure. To the dealership tomorrow we go. again.



Car drove and handled fine. No check engine light. Just a headache.

[ST1LE]

Sounds like you have an electrical issue. My M3 had issues starting and acted weird at times when cranking it up, turned out to be a loose ground wire.

My current Jeep went bonkers 2000 miles after I bought it, doing all sorts of weird stuff like your last post, all random but all electrical. They couldn't find anything specific, but loosened and tightened all the connections and it went away.

Both times, seemingly severe issues turned out to be loose cables. I hope that is all you're dealing with, an electrical issue. Saw some similarities so figured I would share what I experienced. Good luck getting this figured out.

[wwiiavfan]

Replace the battery and I bet your troubles will stop.