[bchaney]

Notice the oil pressure was low at idle less then 10 psi. The oil pressure looks good on the gas. I went ahead and pulled the oil filter and cut it open and its not good there is a lot metal in there so now the motor is coming. The only thing that gets me is I don't see any copper color from a bearing its all aluminum flakes. The motor sounds and runs perfect no noise, ticks, nothing. I hoping to have the motor out by tomorrow afternoon and tore down to get it ready for the machine shop.

Just a lil back story on the car it has 2600 miles on it and I bought it back in January from the original owner that had the car built. I have put 500 miles on the car since I have own it. Its never been to the track or raced or abused since I owned it. And I'm pretty sure the guy I bought from didn't either.

Car has a 416 in it with a 2.3 Magnuson. Its a TSP crank, TSP super I beam rods, TSP cam 226/231 .635/.635 Stock casting heads P&P by PRC. Had the car tuned by MS tuning car made 800hp and 800ft lbs on there hub dyno on e85.

[Puddin]

Originally Posted by bchaney

Notice the oil pressure was low at idle less then 10 psi. The oil pressure looks good on the gas. I went ahead and pulled the oil filter and cut it open and its not good there is a lot metal in there so now the motor is coming. The only thing that gets me is I don't see any copper color from a bearing its all aluminum flakes. The motor sounds and runs perfect no noise, ticks, nothing. I hoping to have the motor out by tomorrow afternoon and tore down to get it ready for the machine shop.

Just a lil back story on the car it has 2600 miles on it and I bought it back in January from the original owner that had the car built. I have put 500 miles on the car since I have own it. Its never been to the track or raced or abused since I owned it. And I'm pretty sure the guy I bought from didn't either.

Car has a 416 in it with a 2.3 Magnuson. Its a TSP crank, TSP super I beam rods, TSP cam 226/231 .635/.635 Stock casting heads P&P by PRC. Had the car tuned by MS tuning car made 800hp and 800ft lbs on there hub dyno on e85.

Looks like you had more than just valve seals go bad on you since the last time you posted. My guess would be the flakes are coming from somewhere in the heads.

[bchaney]

idk you may be right but once I change the valve seals on number 1 cylinder the smoking stopped!

[Puddin]

Are the flakes magnetic? After looking back at your pics you have metal in every pleat and they are all fairly large chunks. Hate to say it but looks like you have a big $$$$ fix coming your way. Seeing this makes me wonder why a guy would sell a car that hopped up with a little over 2000 miles unless he knew something was up and got out from underneath before the damage was done.

[bchaney]

Yep its bad spun three rod bearings!

[Puddin]

Originally Posted by bchaney

Yep its bad spun three rod bearings!

That sucks. Who did the work on this motor because I would stay away from whoever it was.

[bchaney]

The guy I bought it from went to shop local to him and they sent the motor off to be assemble. He didnt know who it was. We couldn't find anything else wrong in the motor to cause the oiling issue the oil pump looked perfect. So now I need a new crank and block.

[Puddin]

Did it Crack the block as well? In your last picture I see a what looks like a crack that runs from one of your cyliner bores and makes a T.

[laynlo15]

Doesn't look like a crack, just the bad scratches in the cylinder walls. I've been where he is now. I would consider just buying a short block from Texas speed, they are very reputable for their engine builds. If it spun any rod bearings and you decide to use the pistons and rods again you'll need to have the rods on the big end checked because it will probably require resizing. I had to have all my Manelys resized after I spun several rod bearings plus most of the mains including the center thrust bearing. My crank broke and caused all my issues. It broke internally and caused the oiling issue which caused the bearing failures. When I pulled the crank pulley bolt out oil ran out of the front of the crank. I can tell you now that should not happen. Good luck on your decision on what to do and man I feel for ya.

[KingLT1]

If buying something prebuilt look at LME or TMS.

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

If buying something prebuilt look at LME or TMS.

Yah, forgot about LME. Good reputation

[ZO6Ted]

Horsepower Research in McKinney Tx is another one. Erik that had HKE Racing Engines in Houston is the builder. He is meticulous.

[Umbriel]

LME or TMS is who I would look into and then Texas Speed.

[bchaney]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Doesn't look like a crack, just the bad scratches in the cylinder walls. I've been where he is now. I would consider just buying a short block from Texas speed, they are very reputable for their engine builds. If it spun any rod bearings and you decide to use the pistons and rods again you'll need to have the rods on the big end checked because it will probably require resizing. I had to have all my Manelys resized after I spun several rod bearings plus most of the mains including the center thrust bearing. My crank broke and caused all my issues. It broke internally and caused the oiling issue which caused the bearing failures. When I pulled the crank pulley bolt out oil ran out of the front of the crank. I can tell you now that should not happen. Good luck on your decision on what to do and man I feel for ya.

Hmmm... when I pulled the crank pulley I had oil coming out too, we couldn't figure out where it was coming from. How can a forged crank break internaly?