[thescreensavers]

Originally Posted by BowtieRocket

Bet the 1LE trailing arms and control arms are still spaghetti...

While there is no doubt BMR arms are beefier the video does not prove anything.

The OEM arms are not designed for twisting that's why it flexes, its multi link, Other arms take care of torque(rotation/Twist). That arm should only see vertical load on the strong axis of the part, it's also designed to crumple in an accident the BMR arms will not and might rip their mounting points and cause a ton more damage.

[rotis]

Can you get close-up pics of the inboard joint on the new lower control arm you have pictured? how does it differ from the stock unit? Just more firm rubber? or is it a spherical?

[Mountain]

Originally Posted by rotis

Can you get close-up pics of the inboard joint on the new lower control arm you have pictured? how does it differ from the stock unit? Just more firm rubber? or is it a spherical?

X2

It should be spherical.

[rotis]

I'm not so sure. The full 1LE kit for MRC cars has you replace the same part. The part in this kit is supposedly the stock MRC part. That would mean there are three different front LCAs.

SS non-MRC
SS MRC
SS 1LE/ZL1

I'm a little doubtful.

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by Nick S

Hey Norm, not sure how the OP is going to measure wall thickness on the new bars (if they are even hollow) when there are no open ends of the tube. He would have to cut the bar into two pieces to measure this?? Or is there some other way I'm not thinking of to measure the wall thickness of the tubing with ordinary measuring tools?

The ends of the arms are 'flattened', and would measure pretty close to being two wall thicknesses thick.


Norm

[vtirocz]

Originally Posted by thescreensavers

While there is no doubt BMR arms are beefier the video does not prove anything.

The OEM arms are not designed for twisting that's why it flexes, its multi link, Other arms take care of torque(rotation/Twist). That arm should only see vertical load on the strong axis of the part, it's also designed to crumple in an accident the BMR arms will not and might rip their mounting points and cause a ton more damage.

Exactly! It all comes down to what tangible / quantifiable benefit you are achieving with that added or changed part vs. the cost (ie. $$$, weight, potential negative impact on performance).

If GM left that same hardware on the SS 1LE and ZL1, then I'm pretty certain it's not in need of upgrading on a regular SS in most cases. That will not stop people from throwing aftermarket parts on to "fix" a problem that doesn't exist though.

[Sledgehammer70]

Originally Posted by Sub

Lethal, how do they feel? Whats the consensus?

Is this considered a "GM" upgrade? Warranty still ok?

No feedback yet, I was traveling for 3 days and came home to winter rain. Car has been parked and will remain parked for a few more days until weather allows me to do some real testing.

I have a ton of pics and a video detailing how I will be testing coming. I will see what thicknesses I can get from the old parts and new parts. But to be honest, the rear bar stock felt hallow, the ZL1 bar feels solid. The fronts on the other hand feel hallow but the ZL1 bar is a thicker bar. I will get dimensions.

[rotis]

The stock rear bar is hollow. It's 1" diameter with a 0.168" wall.

[1LE Red Dragon]

I had this kit installed today at the dealer while getting trans line recall, and new rear end assembly installed. I am taking it easy on the car on the ride home to give the rear diff a couple of drive cycles breakin. I did take on left hand turn i always go quick around and the rear stepped out much easier than it used to. So either I have more front grip or less rear grip. I have MRC and AFE/PFADT springs and had the car in track mode.

That's all I can tell you so far.

[Migueeela93]

Got mine a few days ago. Excited for this.

[glenB]

Originally Posted by Migueeela93

Got mine a few days ago. Excited for this.

I have read that the 1LE/ZL1 rear bar is 1" but probably 26mm as is the SS, but the 1LE/ZL1 it is solid, which would make it stiffer.

Can you confirm that the rear bar is solid and measure both bars.... inquiring minds would like to know.

Thanks

[cooden]

These will install with no issues if you have the Eibach Pro-Kit installed correct?

[Mikeyt03]

Any updates? I'm about to pull the trigger on some bmr sway bars.

[1LE Red Dragon]

I can give a little update on mine.

AFE/PFADT lowering springs
MRC factory option
GM 1LE/ZL1 Sway bar kit
MRR M017 wheels with Nitto 555G2
305 rear, 285 front

Car has much better turn in an less understeer. Tends more towards neutral to slight oversteer. Tons of grip, and seems even more composed than before. Ride is great. I think it did nothing but improve everything about the dynamics of the car. I'm pretty impressed.