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Old 12-26-2017, 06:13 PM   #15
Jimmylhibbler
 
Drives: 2016 dark red camaro ss
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My 2016 as camaro is dead, I tried jumping it but got nothing. When I say nothing I mean no electrical power. User the key fob in the cup holder and try starting it and get nothing no lights at all.
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Old 12-26-2017, 06:22 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glen e View Post
Something is wrong. I let my car sit for five weeks and it starts fine. You have a parasitic drain somewhere or a bad battery

I agree something is wrong. Left mine sit for 3 weeks and it started up just fine. Something is drawing power that shouldn't be.
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Old 12-26-2017, 06:28 PM   #17
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Something is wrong have a look here Battery Testing and Warranty Replacement Requirements (North America ONLY)
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Old 12-27-2017, 11:06 AM   #18
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Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE
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I keep getting emailed from Onstar that battery is low, When I hook the car up to a charger it cranks fine, lights work, but won't fire over. It pops a bit, but won't fire over.
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Old 01-18-2020, 01:03 PM   #19
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after replacing 2 batteries in my low mileage 2016 2SS the dealer updated the battery management and infotainment software. Seemed to have fixed it after 3 weeks it still started. Then it sat for a month during christmas and was totally dead.
So not sure what the problem is now. The cars on the dealers lot sit for many weeks and dont go dead, why the is he suggesting i get a battery tender. Probably cause he cant find the problem.
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Old 01-18-2020, 03:17 PM   #20
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My '17 RS Vert with 8000 miles and original battery has been driven only 3 times since the end of October. It starts and runs just fine.
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Old 02-27-2020, 02:18 PM   #21
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I've been having dead battery issues. Parasitic draw is pretty bad. .187 - .278 amps with everything off.

Hooked up multimeter and pulled fuses nothing. Buddy of mine that's a tech at Toyota suggested pull all the fuses and insert one at a time back. Finally found the problem.

Rear fuse box F23 BCM 1 and front fuse box F26 BCM 2 cause it to spikes to .187 from .011 problem finding is both fuses cause it to jump so pulling one at a time didn't allow it to drop. Have to have both fuses out at the same time.

Next step have to figure out what's up with the BCM
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Old 07-13-2020, 10:17 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_mo30 View Post
I've been having dead battery issues. Parasitic draw is pretty bad. .187 - .278 amps with everything off.

Hooked up multimeter and pulled fuses nothing. Buddy of mine that's a tech at Toyota suggested pull all the fuses and insert one at a time back. Finally found the problem.

Rear fuse box F23 BCM 1 and front fuse box F26 BCM 2 cause it to spikes to .187 from .011 problem finding is both fuses cause it to jump so pulling one at a time didn't allow it to drop. Have to have both fuses out at the same time.

Next step have to figure out what's up with the BCM
Same problem here. I need a new BCM.
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Old 07-14-2020, 06:05 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glen e View Post
Something is wrong. I let my car sit for five weeks and it starts fine. You have a parasitic drain somewhere or a bad battery
This.

My car sat for 3months this winter & fired right up.
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Old 07-14-2020, 07:06 PM   #24
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Well, I was having weird issues along with the battery drain. Window roll down roll up messages, mirror dimming intermittently not working, side impact sensor not working...Those were caused by the bad BCM.

Battery drain was totally a different issue - my aftermarket Helix tail lights! Damn! I got one of the early units and I don’t have a harness. Oh well.
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Old 07-18-2020, 12:14 PM   #25
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Drives: 2019 2SS
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Just purchased a 2019 2SS. The battery went dead after three days of not driving. The dealer told me to store the key fobs in a metal box, so they do not try to communicate with the car all the time. Seems odd.
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Old 07-18-2020, 04:00 PM   #26
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Just purchased a 2019 2SS. The battery went dead after three days of not driving. The dealer told me to store the key fobs in a metal box, so they do not try to communicate with the car all the time. Seems odd.
Absolutely abnormal, this isn't a Fisher-Price toy. There are times when I don't drive the car for 3-4 weeks, she starts right up afterwards every time (I use a battery tender during winter months, that long a storage would probably be too much), and I'm not even stock with a hardwired dashcam and LED replacements with resistors where necessary for every non-LED bulb.

It's either a bad battery or more likely some parasitic draw that sucks the battery dry. The dealer's advice is a mildly ridiculous brush-off, you might want to try another service advisor or another dealer altogether, they have tools to diagnose these electrical issues.

You can also try to diagnose it yourself with a multimeter and systematically removing and replacing fuses, but frankly, since you just bought the car, it should be the dealership's problem and I'd expect them to go the extra mile right after a purchase.
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Old 07-18-2020, 05:22 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamweaver## View Post
The dealer told me to store the key fobs in a metal box, so they do not try to communicate with the car all the time. Seems odd.

Very odd, considering I hang my keys right inside the door from my garage just a few feet from 2 of my vehicles (2018 Colorado, 2019 Equinox, 2020 Camaro) and they never have battery issues. In fairness, the Colorado is stored in the driveway. However, The Camaro and the Equinox both have RKE and Passive Access Operation.
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Old 08-16-2020, 11:19 AM   #28
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On my second battery with no solution. Even 30 minutes off of the battery tender, it won’t start.

Does anyone have a clear cut solution. I’m hesitant to bring the car to a dealer only to receive some bs answer
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