Chillers

[Faster12]

What ever happened to heat soak being the main issue with these cars? Is anybody still selling/installing those super chillers/active interchillers anymore? Or has someone finally made a HX that changed the game? I wanna hear from some of the high HP guys on the forum. How are you currently managing the temps?

[2013 ZL1 #7860]

My plans involve a chiller but most people on here like the trunk mounted ice box.

[white ZL1]

Originally Posted by Faster12

What ever happened to heat soak being the main issue with these cars? Is anybody still selling/installing those super chillers/active interchillers anymore? Or has someone finally made a HX that changed the game? I wanna hear from some of the high HP guys on the forum. How are you currently managing the temps?

Heatsoak is different than having high IAT2 temps, which is what the chiller helps with.
RDS makes some spacer plates that help with the heatsoak issue.
The chiller allows you to spin the blower hard and still keep the charge temps down because your using the a/c to cool the intercooler.

[Trackman]

IAT2s are the killer . I plan to mount a grill on top of supercharger and cook burgers between rounds to help finance my next mod.

Lingenfelter has a new twin fan HX. They are tough to get your hands on one. The pusher fans are the key why it works well.
The chiller has potential for controlling short bursts but production is limited currently.
A trunk mounted ice box is the answer for drag racing.

[BoostedX2]

Does anyone know what temps either IAT1 (temp of air into blower, right) and IAT2 (temp of air from blower into engine) should be kept under? I have a dashlogic and can see what those temps are...IAT1 seems to stay within 15 to 30 degrees of ambient (depending on driving speed), IAT2s are 10-15 degrees higher....wish there was a clear cut chart or something for these...thanks!

[white ZL1]

Kept under when? During normal driving? At a dragstrip? On a road course?
Normal driving you'd like to see IAT1 around or just above ambient and IAT2 will be 10-15 higher. If that's where you are, you're good.
Dragstrip you want to keep your IAT1 down as low as you can before you make your pass. IAT2 will then depend on your blower speed and cooling mods. Ideally, below 140-145 at the end of the track? My tune starts to pull timing there. But the lower your IAT2....the better.
Road course I don't have any first hand experience but would expect IAT1 to be ambient-ish since your always moving. IAT2 could vary greatly if your spinning the blower hard depending on your cooling mods. Even with a good heat exchanger I wouldn't expect to keep IAT2 in check if your pullied. Jessrayo would have good experience here.

[1709]

Originally Posted by Trackman

IAT2s are the killer . I plan to mount a grill on top of supercharger and cook burgers between rounds to help finance my next mod.

Lingenfelter has a new twin fan HX. They are tough to get your hands on one. The pusher fans are the key why it works well.
The chiller has potential for controlling short bursts but production is limited currently.
A trunk mounted ice box is the answer for drag racing.

a lot of people use meth to cool down IAT2 temps and most likely the cheapest. have you ever thought about trying meth trackman

[Trackman]

Originally Posted by 1709

a lot of people use meth to cool down IAT2 temps and most likely the cheapest. have you ever thought about trying meth trackman

I hear nitrous works too!

[1709]

Originally Posted by Trackman

I hear nitrous works too!

yes I think you proved that.

[Baer383]

I have the LPE HX w/fans ,RDS blower spacers,High capacity coolant reservoir.

And I don't have any problem with the heat here in Georgia

[jessrayo]

Originally Posted by Faster12

What ever happened to heat soak being the main issue with these cars? Is anybody still selling/installing those super chillers/active interchillers anymore? Or has someone finally made a HX that changed the game? I wanna hear from some of the high HP guys on the forum. How are you currently managing the temps?

Heat soak is the heat from the engine working up into the intake system and raising the intake temps on the car. I may have more racing hours at higher horsepower levels than anyone else with a ZL1 and I have been working on high intake temps from day 1 owning the ZL1.

When people talk about intake heat there is something that must be clearly understood, the vast majority of time spent by most ZL1 owners is with the supercharger purring along with the bypass valve open. When the car is at idle, when the car is cruising down the interstate at 70, anytime you do not have the throttle mashed the bypass is open and the supercharger is freewheeling. At these times, any intake heat you are getting is from the engine, this is "heatsoak". If you look at your boost gauge, it sits at zero most of the time. Supercharger is spinning but it is sort of on stand-by with all of the air free flowing back into the intake tube. It is not compressing air and it is not making any heat. When your car is in this kind of operation mode, phenolytic spacers and chillers do a wonderful job of keeping the supercharger a little cooler and then when you give it the beans for 5 to 10 seconds it will be a little more peppy.

When you push the gas, close the bypass and the supercharger actually has to make boost it makes a lot of heat. Not heatsoak from the engine but the supercharger itself is compressing air and spinning upwards of 23,000 rpms against resistance. If you stand on the gas a lot, as an example when I road race my car at my local track I have a 2.5 mile lap that has 3 quarter mile plus straights and 4 eighth mile plus straights. I do one lap in about 2 minutes, on a 30 minute session my car does 45 flat out 1/4 mile runs and 60 flat out eighth mile runs with the only rest being when I'm standing on the brakes. In these circumstances the supercharger is the hottest item on the car. It is far hotter than the rest of the engine because the intake temps can get well over 200 and some of the water coming out of supercharger brick will actually boil into steam. I can shut down after 30 minutes and have easily boiled off a gallon of water. As Trackman stated above, you could easily cook burgers on the lid of the supercharger and you sure don't want to touch it. In these conditions the supercharger actually drives up the engine water and oil temps. You do not want to put spacers under the supercharger because the supercharger NEEDS to heatsoak back into the engine, there are no water jackets around the rotors and intake manifold. The water going through it is trying to cool air and the air is still getting over 200 AFTER it has been cooled by the water. That means rotor and metal temps are over 300 before the cooling brick.

Chillers work great for daily driving and drag racing because they can store up some cool water but as soon as you get in the gas the A/C compressor turns off. In a drag race you hold the throttle for 10 seconds and that is about how long it takes to heat up the water that has already been chilled. Then if you can coast long enough to begin chilling the water back down and have the bypass open on the supercharger it is great. Forget it for road racing. I have heard that the chiller can actually cool enough water for a 24 second standing mile without getting intake temps over 140. You are looking at $700 to $1000 for a good chiller. You can buy a reservoir and a lot of bags or ice for that price. My testing has shown that I can do 2 pounds of ice or about the equivalent of a gallon reservoir of ice drag racing and never get a temp above 140.

As White ZL1 said previously 140 is kind of the magic number because above that your car adjusts timing and starts reducing power. If you don't have an accessory gauge or device to view IAT2 you may never know it is getting hot and the car is automatically reducing power. Even if it pulls a few degrees of timing and you lose 50 horepower, most people don't even notice the difference. It is still pretty fast. It cools down pretty quickly with the supercharger freewheeling with the bypass open.

I have a Heartbeat blower with the largest twin brick supercharger intercoolers available to date. I have a 4 gallon trunk reservoir with the best water pump available to date, I have a Ron Davis heat exchanger in my grill and it is very efficient without blocking airflow to the radiator and other cooling I have in my car. When my car is moving it cools very well. I'm still looking for a more powerful fan system to cool at lower speeds.

If you push up the boost levels and you hold the throttle open for more than 10 seconds at a time without giving it a lot of time to rest you need all the cooling you can get from a bigger tank, bigger pump and better intercoolers. Ice helps a ton if you do short runs. And nitrous does help also....lol.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by jessrayo

Heat soak is the heat from the engine working up into the intake system and raising the intake temps on the car. I may have more racing hours at higher horsepower levels than anyone else with a ZL1 and I have been working on high intake temps from day 1 owning the ZL1.

When people talk about intake heat there is something that must be clearly understood, the vast majority of time spent by most ZL1 owners is with the supercharger purring along with the bypass valve open. When the car is at idle, when the car is cruising down the interstate at 70, anytime you do not have the throttle mashed the bypass is open and the supercharger is freewheeling. At these times, any intake heat you are getting is from the engine, this is "heatsoak". If you look at your boost gauge, it sits at zero most of the time. Supercharger is spinning but it is sort of on stand-by with all of the air free flowing back into the intake tube. It is not compressing air and it is not making any heat. When your car is in this kind of operation mode, phenolytic spacers and chillers do a wonderful job of keeping the supercharger a little cooler and then when you give it the beans for 5 to 10 seconds it will be a little more peppy.

When you push the gas, close the bypass and the supercharger actually has to make boost it makes a lot of heat. Not heatsoak from the engine but the supercharger itself is compressing air and spinning upwards of 23,000 rpms against resistance. If you stand on the gas a lot, as an example when I road race my car at my local track I have a 2.5 mile lap that has 3 quarter mile plus straights and 4 eighth mile plus straights. I do one lap in about 2 minutes, on a 30 minute session my car does 45 flat out 1/4 mile runs and 60 flat out eighth mile runs with the only rest being when I'm standing on the brakes. In these circumstances the supercharger is the hottest item on the car. It is far hotter than the rest of the engine because the intake temps can get well over 200 and some of the water coming out of supercharger brick will actually boil into steam. I can shut down after 30 minutes and have easily boiled off a gallon of water. As Trackman stated above, you could easily cook burgers on the lid of the supercharger and you sure don't want to touch it. In these conditions the supercharger actually drives up the engine water and oil temps. You do not want to put spacers under the supercharger because the supercharger NEEDS to heatsoak back into the engine, there are no water jackets around the rotors and intake manifold. The water going through it is trying to cool air and the air is still getting over 200 AFTER it has been cooled by the water. That means rotor and metal temps are over 300 before the cooling brick.

Chillers work great for daily driving and drag racing because they can store up some cool water but as soon as you get in the gas the A/C compressor turns off. In a drag race you hold the throttle for 10 seconds and that is about how long it takes to heat up the water that has already been chilled. Then if you can coast long enough to begin chilling the water back down and have the bypass open on the supercharger it is great. Forget it for road racing. I have heard that the chiller can actually cool enough water for a 24 second standing mile without getting intake temps over 140. You are looking at $700 to $1000 for a good chiller. You can buy a reservoir and a lot of bags or ice for that price. My testing has shown that I can do 2 pounds of ice or about the equivalent of a gallon reservoir of ice drag racing and never get a temp above 140.

As White ZL1 said previously 140 is kind of the magic number because above that your car adjusts timing and starts reducing power. If you don't have an accessory gauge or device to view IAT2 you may never know it is getting hot and the car is automatically reducing power. Even if it pulls a few degrees of timing and you lose 50 horepower, most people don't even notice the difference. It is still pretty fast. It cools down pretty quickly with the supercharger freewheeling with the bypass open.

I have a Heartbeat blower with the largest twin brick supercharger intercoolers available to date. I have a 4 gallon trunk reservoir with the best water pump available to date, I have a Ron Davis heat exchanger in my grill and it is very efficient without blocking airflow to the radiator and other cooling I have in my car. When my car is moving it cools very well. I'm still looking for a more powerful fan system to cool at lower speeds.

If you push up the boost levels and you hold the throttle open for more than 10 seconds at a time without giving it a lot of time to rest you need all the cooling you can get from a bigger tank, bigger pump and better intercoolers. Ice helps a ton if you do short runs. And nitrous does help also....lol.

Great Write up.

I would add the size of the intercooler brick inside the blower is the Limiter so to speak.

No matter how large a heat ex-changer you put out front the Brick can only exchange so much heat at a limited rate.

[Trackman]

Originally Posted by Baer383

I have the LPE HX w/fans ,RDS blower spacers,High capacity coolant reservoir.

And I don't have any problem with the heat here in Georgia

What before and after Iat2s temps are you recording during a run?

[CanadianZL1#992]

Originally Posted by Trackman

IAT2s are the killer . I plan to mount a grill on top of supercharger and cook burgers between rounds to help finance my next mod.

Lingenfelter has a new twin fan HX. They are tough to get your hands on one. The pusher fans are the key why it works well.
The chiller has potential for controlling short bursts but production is limited currently.
A trunk mounted ice box is the answer for drag racing.

The lingenfelter HX isn't hard to get. Oh did I get the last one. SORRY!! Lol. I'll take 1 burger with cheese!!