Chillers

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by graf101

I just had an adm stage 2 LSA conversion installed by Andy at adm, and he did not include an iat2 sensor on my build. Anyone know how he bypassed this from a tuning aspect and possibly know what the reason for not including this might be? Is it safe to run without it? Please excuse my lack of knowledge on this subject.

If you have a Gen5 camaro you can not add IAT2 the computer does not have the hardware for it.

However I am sure he cut the wires that were using the MAF Air temp sensor and connected them to an IAT sensor on the side of the LSA supercharger so the computer can read IAT at the IAT2 location, then set the IAT timing adder table accordingly.

Ted.

[KaBoom1701]

Ted,

Do you recommend upgrading to this high flow pump like Jess suggested?

http://www.lingenfelter.com/product/...l#.WEGcB-YrI2w

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by KaBoom1701

Ted,

Do you recommend upgrading to this high flow pump like Jess suggested?

http://www.lingenfelter.com/product/...l#.WEGcB-YrI2w

You will gain more cooling capacity from a higher flowing water pump than any other mod to your stock intercooler system.

So Yes, let us know if we can provide one for you, we are an authorized LPE dealer.

Ted.

[KaBoom1701]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

You will gain more cooling capacity from a higher flowing water pump than any other mod to your stock intercooler system.

So Yes, let us know if we can provide one for you, we are an authorized LPE dealer.

Ted.

Sounds good. Will this require you to update/change the tune you have for my car?

Thanks for your help.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by KaBoom1701

Sounds good. Will this require you to update/change the tune you have for my car?

Thanks for your help.

No sir plug and play.

[KaBoom1701]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

No sir plug and play.

Even better. Sign me up. Let me know how much.

Thx Ted.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by KaBoom1701

Even better. Sign me up. Let me know how much.

Thx Ted.

Give us a call, we sell at LPE pricing.

Ted.

[fluxzl1]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

No sir plug and play.

ted..
which LPE pump do you recomend??

[KaBoom1701]

Originally Posted by fluxzl1

ted..
which LPE pump do you recomend??

I imagine the one I posted a link to.....scroll up a few replies.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by fluxzl1

ted..
which LPE pump do you recomend??

Originally Posted by KaBoom1701

I imagine the one I posted a link to.....scroll up a few replies.

Correct that one is specific to the ZL-1

[COBARO1]

Originally Posted by jessrayo

Heat soak is the heat from the engine working up into the intake system and raising the intake temps on the car. I may have more racing hours at higher horsepower levels than anyone else with a ZL1 and I have been working on high intake temps from day 1 owning the ZL1.

When people talk about intake heat there is something that must be clearly understood, the vast majority of time spent by most ZL1 owners is with the supercharger purring along with the bypass valve open. When the car is at idle, when the car is cruising down the interstate at 70, anytime you do not have the throttle mashed the bypass is open and the supercharger is freewheeling. At these times, any intake heat you are getting is from the engine, this is "heatsoak". If you look at your boost gauge, it sits at zero most of the time. Supercharger is spinning but it is sort of on stand-by with all of the air free flowing back into the intake tube. It is not compressing air and it is not making any heat. When your car is in this kind of operation mode, phenolytic spacers and chillers do a wonderful job of keeping the supercharger a little cooler and then when you give it the beans for 5 to 10 seconds it will be a little more peppy.

When you push the gas, close the bypass and the supercharger actually has to make boost it makes a lot of heat. Not heatsoak from the engine but the supercharger itself is compressing air and spinning upwards of 23,000 rpms against resistance. If you stand on the gas a lot, as an example when I road race my car at my local track I have a 2.5 mile lap that has 3 quarter mile plus straights and 4 eighth mile plus straights. I do one lap in about 2 minutes, on a 30 minute session my car does 45 flat out 1/4 mile runs and 60 flat out eighth mile runs with the only rest being when I'm standing on the brakes. In these circumstances the supercharger is the hottest item on the car. It is far hotter than the rest of the engine because the intake temps can get well over 200 and some of the water coming out of supercharger brick will actually boil into steam. I can shut down after 30 minutes and have easily boiled off a gallon of water. As Trackman stated above, you could easily cook burgers on the lid of the supercharger and you sure don't want to touch it. In these conditions the supercharger actually drives up the engine water and oil temps. You do not want to put spacers under the supercharger because the supercharger NEEDS to heatsoak back into the engine, there are no water jackets around the rotors and intake manifold. The water going through it is trying to cool air and the air is still getting over 200 AFTER it has been cooled by the water. That means rotor and metal temps are over 300 before the cooling brick.

Chillers work great for daily driving and drag racing because they can store up some cool water but as soon as you get in the gas the A/C compressor turns off. In a drag race you hold the throttle for 10 seconds and that is about how long it takes to heat up the water that has already been chilled. Then if you can coast long enough to begin chilling the water back down and have the bypass open on the supercharger it is great. Forget it for road racing. I have heard that the chiller can actually cool enough water for a 24 second standing mile without getting intake temps over 140. You are looking at $700 to $1000 for a good chiller. You can buy a reservoir and a lot of bags or ice for that price. My testing has shown that I can do 2 pounds of ice or about the equivalent of a gallon reservoir of ice drag racing and never get a temp above 140.

As White ZL1 said previously 140 is kind of the magic number because above that your car adjusts timing and starts reducing power. If you don't have an accessory gauge or device to view IAT2 you may never know it is getting hot and the car is automatically reducing power. Even if it pulls a few degrees of timing and you lose 50 horepower, most people don't even notice the difference. It is still pretty fast. It cools down pretty quickly with the supercharger freewheeling with the bypass open.

I have a Heartbeat blower with the largest twin brick supercharger intercoolers available to date. I have a 4 gallon trunk reservoir with the best water pump available to date, I have a Ron Davis heat exchanger in my grill and it is very efficient without blocking airflow to the radiator and other cooling I have in my car. When my car is moving it cools very well. I'm still looking for a more powerful fan system to cool at lower speeds.

If you push up the boost levels and you hold the throttle open for more than 10 seconds at a time without giving it a lot of time to rest you need all the cooling you can get from a bigger tank, bigger pump and better intercoolers. Ice helps a ton if you do short runs. And nitrous does help also....lol.

"Chillers work great for daily driving and drag racing because they can store up some cool water but as soon as you get in the gas the A/C compressor turns off."

What about running a chiller with an electric compressor instead of the belt driven compressor, that way when your at WOT the compressor would still stay on?

Such as:

Electric Air Conditioning Compressor

Sean Hyland Motorsport announces the electric air conditioning compressor for hot rods. This compact 12-volt A/C compressor comes with 8AN or 10AN fittings, operates quietly and can be mounted virtually anywhere on custom cars and hot rods, freeing up underhood space. The kit comes complete with wiring and a controller to work with any aftermarket underdash air-conditioning system. OEM quality and engineering ensures years of dependable service.

Sean Hyland Motorsport Ltd.
888-282-2566
www.seanhylandmotorsport.com

[COBARO1]

Originally Posted by 2013 ZL1 #7860

Why couldn't you tune the AC compressor to stay on until 90% throttle and 5,500 rpm and allow it to keep cooling the chiller?

On a road course the car is not always at WOT and redline. Turning and stopping happens too.

I would be willing to bet that tuning the AC compressor to stay on at all times would bring better gain with the chiller than the 20-30 hp loss from having the compressor on.

Ice is not practical in a road race scenario. Why not do both a chiller and a HE and pump along with a large tank for storage?

I have a chiller and if you run the chiller in combined with the HE the temperature actually rises because the HE temp is higher than using the chiller alone.