[lt4camaro]

Originally Posted by Yosh6

Not exhaustive, but a few more things. 1) Everything out of the trunk including panels; 2) both sway bars (15 lb ea) just for track; 3) ditto on Anti-gravity battery; 3) drain the windshield washer tank; 4) Aluminum (and plastic) belly pan under engine. 5) Lightest wheels/tires you can find (for me was Bogart 14 lb. front, 21 lb. rear and Hoosier DBR 8 lbs each lighter than M/T. 3320 lbs. no driver, 1/8 tank fuel. 1SS

Hey Yosh6, how does the car hook with out the rear sway? better, worse, no change?? I may have talked to you about this already? are you the guy that lowered the rear of the car with different spring like a inch??

[Yosh6]

Originally Posted by lt4camaro

Hey Yosh6, how does the car hook with out the rear sway? better, worse, no change?? I may have talked to you about this already? are you the guy that lowered the rear of the car with different spring like a inch??

lt4camaro, yes lowered the rear 1" with BMR springs. Can't offer a definitive answer to your question because the rear sway bar came off the same time as other changes. Never isolated that one thing. Best guess is it didn't hurt. 2021 goal was to improve the 60' and went from 1.5's to 1.462. For a bolt-on N/A car, that's not too bad.

[lt4camaro]

Originally Posted by Yosh6

lt4camaro, yes lowered the rear 1" with BMR springs. Can't offer a definitive answer to your question because the rear sway bar came off the same time as other changes. Never isolated that one thing. Best guess is it didn't hurt. 2021 goal was to improve the 60' and went from 1.5's to 1.462. For a bolt-on N/A car, that's not too bad.

That is for sure, thanks Bud. I understand why removing the front bar allows or promotes front lift which encourages weight transfer. I also understand removing a rear sway bar may induce a little more squat but also may be less pushing the rear tires into the pavement?? I dont know, just rattling that shit around in my head.

[Duramacr1]

2021 LT1 . No options . This was with a 1/4 tank and before I installed my aerospace front brakes which saved 50lbs. So I would guess 3230 with brakes .
I still have the stock drivers seat and muffler . Just your standard weight reduction . Pass seat, rear seats, belly pan, front sway bar, lightweight battery, dragpak, washer fluid reservoir , rear trunk mat only, front bumper support ,
Headers and no cats also lose some weight . Car is an A10 so I would think a manual could be even lighter if it had the same stuff off the car ..

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by Duramacr1

Attachment 1106274

2021 LT1 . No options . This was with a 1/4 tank and before I installed my aerospace front brakes which saved 50lbs. So I would guess 3230 with brakes .
I still have the stock drivers seat and muffler . Just your standard weight reduction . Pass seat, rear seats, belly pan, front sway bar, lightweight battery, dragpak, washer fluid reservoir , rear trunk mat only, front bumper support ,
Headers and no cats also lose some weight . Car is an A10 so I would think a manual could be even lighter if it had the same stuff off the car ..

Nice work, a great weight and u can still do more. The light weight brakes are nice, what was the total price you figure for the swap?

If I do sway bars gone and light weight brakes that will put in the 3200’ with all the rest of advice on thread.

[Duramacr1]

Blackbeast, 1200 for the front brakes . Just order the kit

[asthmamax11]

Racing brakes or V6 brakes

[BlackbeastSS2]

Seats are officially in now, used planted seat brackets to anchor them down. I had purchased a couple of seat sliders but couldn’t use them due to the height of the seats and no clearance up top. Got some nice hardware super grade bolts and snugged them down German style. These seats are not moving or going anywhere.

[Sillysspeed]

I like this post

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by JSH

I'm currently at 3725 w/ 2 gal. and could easily get below 3700

JHS, if you haven't installed your Edelbrock 2650 yet, you should weigh it and see how it compares to the your LT4 blower.

[JimGnitecki]

I have a lot of experience with the Anti-Gravity and other brands of Lithium batteries in MOTORCYCLES.

I have used them in at least 6 different motorcycle projects over the past few years, and they work fine, provided you understand how they work:

- VERY high starting current capacity, BUT it deceases when the battery gets very cold. You should actually turn ion the headlights for a minute before cranking when the battery is cold, as that warms it sufficiently.

- Don't get the very smallest capacity. Get one that is MODERATE. You STILL save at least 50% of the weight or more over a conventional battery.

- To counter parasitic drain, keep the battery on a SMART, LITHIUM-rated battery charger.

- Inabsence of any parastic drain, Lithium batteries will stay charged for many months even without a charger attached.

Jim G

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by JimGnitecki

I have a lot of experience with the Anti-Gravity and other brands of Lithium batteries in MOTORCYCLES.

I have used them in at least 6 different motorcycle projects over the past few years, and they work fine, provided you understand how they work:

- VERY high starting current capacity, BUT it deceases when the battery gets very cold. You should actually turn ion the headlights for a minute before cranking when the battery is cold, as that warms it sufficiently.

- Don't get the very smallest capacity. Get one that is MODERATE. You STILL save at least 50% of the weight or more over a conventional battery.

- To counter parasitic drain, keep the battery on a SMART, LITHIUM-rated battery charger.

- Inabsence of any parastic drain, Lithium batteries will stay charged for many months even without a charger attached.

Jim G

I have an Antigravity battery and agree with Jim’s post. I went mid size at 40AH and probably would go for the 60AH if I had to do it again. I’m glad I didn’t go smaller. If the car sits for a week or so without the charger the battery rundown protection will kick in, so I pretty much always leave it on the charger. That said, I was stunned at how much lighter this battery is vs the OEM one.

[JimGnitecki]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

I have an Antigravity battery and agree with Jim’s post. I went mid size at 40AH and probably would go for the 60AH if I had to do it again. I’m glad I didn’t go smaller. If the car sits for a week or so without the charger the battery rundown protection will kick in, so I pretty much always leave it on the charger. That said, I was stunned at how much lighter this battery is vs the OEM one.

Joshinator: Do you happen to have the OEM battery's:
- Brand?
- Model no. or part no.?
- Weight?

And, how hard is it to get a Battery tender type wiring harness attached to it so that a charger can be easily plugged into it when it is in the garage? Is it reasonably accessible?

Jim G

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by JimGnitecki

Joshinator: Do you happen to have the OEM battery's:
- Brand?
- Model no. or part no.?
- Weight?

And, how hard is it to get a Battery tender type wiring harness attached to it so that a charger can be easily plugged into it when it is in the garage? Is it reasonably accessible?

Jim G

Jim

Pics attached. It was a solid 30 lbs heavier than the Antigravity one (17 vs 47 IIRC). I just wired up my charger to grab the large hot wire feed at the front power distribution block. When I’m done I just unplug the quick disconnect and tuck it back in by the block. Been doing it for 4 years with no issues even though it’s not right at the battery.