[s3rics213]

I’m looking to build up my engine in the next few months and I want to prep it for a procharger further down the road -94 or d1x so what I’m looking into part wise and getting is as follows.

Gpi drop in piston/rods
Cam that I can be N/A with great power that will also be great with a procharger
(Ss4 from gpi, who also says that will work) but being told by others it won’t
MSD I/M
Headers

Car already has a Roto-Fab and E installed
So looking for my best options and suggestions along with why or why not they will work.

Thanks look forward to reading everyone’s responses.

[KingLT1]

SS4 is too much cam for a FI street car. It has 17.5 degrees of overlap. Hit Pray up for his Stage 2 blower cam.

[Puddin]

Have you talked to anybody from GPI or just visited the website? I'd call them if you haven't and pick their brain.

[s3rics213]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

SS4 is too much cam for a FI street car. It has 17.5 degrees of overlap. Hit Pray up for his Stage 2 blower cam.

Will I have a issue running a blower cam in a N/A set up till I procharger though? And thanks for the response.

[s3rics213]

Originally Posted by Puddin

Have you talked to anybody from GPI or just visited the website? I'd call them if you haven't and pick their brain.

I have but I don’t think I’ve talked with anyone of knowledge just more of a sales rep. That’s my next step is to call. Thanks.

[KingLT1]

Fwiw There is a local car that has gpi forged drop-ins, ss4 cam(recommended by gpi. Rep), and P1 Centri. The car made good power on the Dyno, but the cam bleeds off so much boost the P1 gets smokin hot from being over spun to make 11-12psi with IAT's pegging 180. I'm sure a F1a would work better but imo it's still the wrong cam.

A Centri cam in a NA application would work better then a large NA cam in a Centri application.

[s3rics213]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Fwiw There is a local car that has gpi forged drop-ins, ss4 cam(recommended by gpi. Rep), and P1 Centri. The car made good power on the Dyno, but the cam bleeds off so much boost the P1 gets smokin hot from being over spun to make 11-12psi with IAT's pegging 180. I'm sure a F1a would work better but imo it's still the wrong cam.

A Centri cam in a NA application would work better then a large NA cam in a Centri application.

That’s more of what I wanted to read. That comes into Duration of how long the cam stays open if I’m not mistaken right. Like a 232/251 .639 would be worse then a 232/256 same lift.

[Shocker91]

like KingLT1 said get with Pray on his stage 2 blower cam. i currently have that cam in my car and my car has been above 1xxx WHP with out a hiccup with his tuning and has plenty left in it for more power. beware though one thing we learned and GPI will admit is that the rods in their drop in kit are not rated past 900 ( dont know if you are planning on going past that just and FYI). now my car is getting a custom built and forged 416 with a cam based off the stage 2 blower cam because it fits FI builds so well. if you need any specific information i am more than happy to help you get squared away!

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by s3rics213

That’s more of what I wanted to read. That comes into Duration of how long the cam stays open if I’m not mistaken right. Like a 232/251 .639 would be worse then a 232/256 same lift.

Sort of yes, but it has more to do with overlap...lot's of overlap is not ideal for boost. Overlap is a derivative of duration and LSA. Most of your supercharger camshafts have a generous split between intake and exhaust duration with a wider LSA generally in the 114-118 range for a broad power range that will carry power and reduce overlap. A 232/256 with a 118 LSA(8 degrees of overlap) would be better then a 232/251 111 LSA(19.5 degrees of overlap) on a Centri build.

I personally would do something around a 226/242 114-115 with 4-6 degrees of overlap.

[DorkMissile]

230+ duration intake cams are going to really make the car a POS to drive, especially without the blower. Im not sure if your car is a auto or manual, but if its an auto it will need a stall, and if its a stick it is going to buck under low load.

If you want a good cam that will be OK both N/A and good on a Procharger, the BTR Supercharged Stg1 or 2 would be good choices, and prooven.

[MP3BOOSTED]

I went with a cam from pray performance that is bigger then his stage 2 boosted cam. Only thing that will happen if your running a boosted cam on your NA setup is your power won't be as high as other NA built specific cams.

Either way i'd contact pray and grab his Stage 2. I went with a slightly bigger setup as my power goals are to be more then 1000whp

[s3rics213]

Thanks everyone for reaching out. I’m waiting for a few shops to get back with me on a better(suggested piston/rod combo) to see where we stand with the build. One place wanted to just jump straight to a resleeved 427 but not looking to go that route yet.

[oldman]

http://www.cammotion.com/gen-5-lt-ca...ger-camshafts/

Cam Motion is the only people I know that make a specific centri cam. You can order any duration and any lobe profile. I went with a sub .600 lobe.

I went with a 230+ duration cam just cause I WANTED the lope, my original zero overlap Pray stage 1 or 0 depending was just too mild, very hard to tell it was NOT stock. The Cam Motion defined lope cam leaves no doubt.... was not a power mod. I have an m6 and feel the cam is completely totally drivable...

I have a idle / rev video on the NA section. Will do one soon with a 100% stock exhaust system, at 45 MPH it really behaves and sounds like stock. In the parking lot it sounds like a BIG cam even with a near stock exhaust.

[yose]

i have a tick performance stage 2 blower cam, i can post the specs if you would like