05-11-2017, 09:04 AM | #29 |
Fast Cars and Old Guitars
Drives: 2015 2SS RS (L99, baby!) Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: N. CA
Posts: 3,973
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How does that carbon fiber driveshaft feel? Do you get a sense that it "uncoils" in a launch? Kind of like the store-up energy in a spring?
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05-11-2017, 09:23 AM | #30 | |
Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Smithsburg, Md.
Posts: 2,445
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Extremely common unfortunately...I upgraded to 1LE axles almost immediately after purchasing the car(it already had 90k of unknown mi) so I have the stock axles for emergency backup...
So much info...stopping wheel hop is PARAMOUNT! As you discovered, the uncontrolled oscillations cause the stock cv's cages to self destruct...not necessarily a BAD THING because it saves the diff(hopefully)...as long as the suspension is in decent shape make sure the car has a good alignment...rear especially since we want the tires point straight under acceleration.... I am still learnin too! First trip 13.5, second trip 12.7 and with my recent mods I hope the third trip is equally as rewarding....biggest mod is DRIVER mod... seriously... and to clarify the e-brake launch...if you don't actively use it and therefore do not understand how to properly utilize this method(regardless of power adder!!!) please refrain from commenting on it(not you OP)...why? well I will let the following video speak for itself and anyone of you can PM BFASTNOTLAST and get it from the proverbial horses mouth...AND this is STILL the STOCK clutch!!!!! BTW - 10 sec N/A...
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2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - 150K! - All work by me...
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05-11-2017, 09:44 AM | #31 |
old school chevy rodder
Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,587
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ideas...BMR trailing arms and toes with poly bushings in them, a carrier cover by LPW and a Poly set for it.... Wheel hop removed mostly and the carrier reinforced you replace what ever you may have broke something as you know most common is the stock axles as you know which can be had cheaper or you may even want to upgrade those, I am thinking zl1s.... can be had for less than a 1000+ hp set from DSS...... SO R/R whats messed up. Wheel hop is what can destroy things out back with it causing the rear end to literally thump the car up and down between catching traction and none.
http://www.phastekperformance.com/20...rades-s/29.htm http://www.lpwracing.com/ http://www.drivenracingoil.com/ A few places I believe in, look around and if your doing something maybe you may want to think about quality lighter wheels also to help limit the hop also as rolling mass matters also but the trailing arms and toes holding it and good carrier cover over repairs and you should remove the hop. That's of course down the road as wheels get spendy... I know I spend over 2k on a set. Drag tracks are of course treated with friggin tar from hell as they have been rubber coated so many times, and regular roads can be pretty sticky too if their new and the asphalt is still sticky..I used to make roads... Anyway that has the tendency to grap the tire on the track unlike a normal street where you will go between extremely good tracking to none..... and that's where the axle with some wheel hop can snap it, and the stock axles are only meant for around stock hp numbers and need to be treated well. I don't launch hard , most launch 3500 up as stock even the launch control if you have used it goes to 4 grand and that's a lot of shock and if built a lot more tendency for immediate burn out loosing traction. Normal for me is just driving I preload the rear when taking off from lights usually when taking off being easy and then go fast from there not to break axles and that's not a good thing for the track though in reaction time just letting it roll a little before hammering it to remove shock. The stock trailing arms are stamped steel ; they decorate my storage shed with the other stock parts. You get wheel hop....that's a sign to old motorhead...you don't know what your doing if you power out of it...that's a time when a experienced racer powers down and then modifies it as much as possible to remove that and get the weight transfer down with the struts/shocks to moving the best..then you can hammer it ...But Hammer Time...that's been over for a long time..LOL
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2021 Wild Cherry ZL1 A10, Sunroof, Data, Carbon, Nav, RotoFab Dry CAI, Elite x2, Borla ATK, Driveshaft shop
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05-11-2017, 09:46 AM | #32 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS 6-speed Join Date: May 2017
Location: Havelock, NC
Posts: 18
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05-11-2017, 09:52 AM | #33 | ||
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS 6-speed Join Date: May 2017
Location: Havelock, NC
Posts: 18
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Quote:
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05-11-2017, 03:44 PM | #34 |
Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Smithsburg, Md.
Posts: 2,445
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You are welcome...
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2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - 150K! - All work by me...
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05-11-2017, 09:35 PM | #35 | |
Drives: 2010 2ss 6 speed Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: NEW BRUNSWICK CANADA
Posts: 328
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Quote:
The Eaton TrueTrac works great as well. https://youtu.be/lZmsY2YvVsc |
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05-12-2017, 08:19 AM | #36 | ||
GPI Sales Consultant
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Quote:
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GPI Max Package 2.0: Brodix BR7 heads/GPI porting, MAX3 cam, ST2116LSR, BSR Max Lift rockers, LS7 LSXR with 103mm TB, Vararam OTR, Mcleod RXT, G-Force/Strange 9" IRS setup with 4.63 gear. 551whp, 11.1@124mph.
Got a question about a GPI product? Feel free to shoot me a message! |
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05-12-2017, 08:35 AM | #37 |
GPI Sales Consultant
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It seems counter-intuitive for sure. You're not putting a heavy load on the clutch, and you're not doing it for long. You're simply preloading everything before the hit. I could see someone doing this all wrong and hurting the clutch - but when done right it has it's place.
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GPI Max Package 2.0: Brodix BR7 heads/GPI porting, MAX3 cam, ST2116LSR, BSR Max Lift rockers, LS7 LSXR with 103mm TB, Vararam OTR, Mcleod RXT, G-Force/Strange 9" IRS setup with 4.63 gear. 551whp, 11.1@124mph.
Got a question about a GPI product? Feel free to shoot me a message! |
05-16-2017, 05:43 PM | #38 | |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS 6-speed Join Date: May 2017
Location: Havelock, NC
Posts: 18
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We have updates o:... I just took off the left axle and I'll be posting what I see |
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05-16-2017, 06:13 PM | #39 | |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS 6-speed Join Date: May 2017
Location: Havelock, NC
Posts: 18
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Next to take off the diff |
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05-16-2017, 06:17 PM | #40 |
Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Smithsburg, Md.
Posts: 2,445
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Man that sux....
and replace the axle seal too...good luck!
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2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - 150K! - All work by me...
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05-17-2017, 07:16 PM | #41 | |
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Quote:
Unfortunately I'd probably be the one to get it all wrong.
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Tags |
axle, broken, differential, racing |
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