[bandier]

Hi DualSS, Thanks for coming back. LOL. This AXDSPX-ETH1 obviously is the way to go. Give us the basics on your build and your opinion. Using all the channels? What amp? What speakers? Etc.

I personally would like to keep all the channels because they are there other than the center. But, that could prove to be too expensive replacing all the speakers. So maybe not, still plotting. Anyway, tell us what you did.

[DualSS]

Originally Posted by SomeGeoffGuy

Any issues? Are you glad you did it? I have been looking at this for my 23. I am going to try a post-amplifier signal solution first, but I think ultimately I am going to need a pre-amplifier signal.

-Geoff

The ETH is a game changer. Is it perfect? Nope. But I would do it all over again if I had to. Why waste your money on something that won't fix the Bose roll-off and ANC issue? The whole idea behind this kit is to eliminate the Bose amp entirely and to rely on a way better aftermarket amp to handle the audio....

[DualSS]

Originally Posted by bandier

Hi DualSS, Thanks for coming back. LOL. This AXDSPX-ETH1 obviously is the way to go. Give us the basics on your build and your opinion. Using all the channels? What amp? What speakers? Etc.

I personally would like to keep all the channels because they are there other than the center. But, that could prove to be too expensive replacing all the speakers. So maybe not, still plotting. Anyway, tell us what you did.

For starters you need a multi-channel amp and a sub amp(optional). I personally use a JL Audio 8 channel amp which means the center channel is not hooked up as that is channel 9. So its; Front Right, Front Left, Rear Right, Rear Left, Right Tweeter, Left Tweeter, Rear Deck Right and Rear Deck Left.

I haven't gotten around to replacing the old Bose speakers, yes I know aftermarket ones would sound better, but for now they sound like 5 times louder and clearer than before. If they blow up, that's fine too, because it'll motivate me to get something cool. I can actually hear my rear deck speakers now btw.....

[bandier]

DualSS, for the price of $500 for the ASDSPX-ETH1 you're essentially getting the benefit of more control and balance of your existing Bose speaker system. You said it's louder. For me, I'm not sure if I need louder but I do like clarity and definition of the system sound. Please share your opinion in that respect. I'm assuming the speakers will sound the same as before, but does the rebalancing of the system, other than the increased volume, add anything to the crispness of the audio? I hope that makes sense.

I am considering the same approach as you and gradually build on the system with the improved speakers later.

Originally Posted by DualSS

For starters you need a multi-channel amp and a sub amp(optional). I personally use a JL Audio 8 channel amp which means the center channel is not hooked up as that is channel 9. So its; Front Right, Front Left, Rear Right, Rear Left, Right Tweeter, Left Tweeter, Rear Deck Right and Rear Deck Left.

I haven't gotten around to replacing the old Bose speakers, yes I know aftermarket ones would sound better, but for now they sound like 5 times louder and clearer than before. If they blow up, that's fine too, because it'll motivate me to get something cool. I can actually hear my rear deck speakers now btw.....

[DualSS]

Originally Posted by bandier

DualSS, for the price of $500 for the ASDSPX-ETH1 you're essentially getting the benefit of more control and balance of your existing Bose speaker system. You said it's louder. For me, I'm not sure if I need louder but I do like clarity and definition of the system sound. Please share your opinion in that respect. I'm assuming the speakers will sound the same as before, but does the rebalancing of the system, other than the increased volume, add anything to the crispness of the audio? I hope that makes sense.

I am considering the same approach as you and gradually build on the system with the improved speakers later.

Ok, maybe I'm just bad at explaining things. So I remember on the Bose amp, never quite feeling satisfied with the way the system sounded. It's very mid and bass heavy even after tuning on the equalizer and you only really hear the door speakers and tweets and every other speaker barely makes any sound and they just kinda fade into the background.
I knew if I went out and bought a sub amp and sub I would end up just overpowering the Bose system and it would never sound right because of the Bose roll-off.
It has always been my tradition to replace a stock stereo in all my vehicles with an aftermarket unit, it's like a night and day difference every time in terms of overall clarity, not having to turn up the volume so much to hear more of those little sound effects that are absent when using a stock stereo.
Of course replacing the stock stereo is not an option on our Bose-equipped cars so the ETH is basically our equivalent of installing a nice and shiny double din head unit.
But yeah, now I essentially don't have to turn up the volume as much as before to hear more of those hidden details in our music.
The only real downside to doing the ETH is that right away you'll feel the need for some serious bass as you'll lose all those mid and bass heavy effects that the Bose amp provides.
I ended up having to start shopping for a mono amp and sub to complement the 8 channel amp.
With that being said, I was unaware of the ETH going up in price to $500 as I bought mine at $350 when it came out. So yeah, this is not a cheap upgrade once you factor everything you'll need, but to me it was worth it regardless, if not for the bump in audio quality, than for the fun I had while engrossed into the project while getting to know my car better.....

[SomeGeoffGuy]

Originally Posted by DualSS

It's very mid and bass heavy even after tuning on the equalizer and you only really hear the door speakers and tweets and every other speaker barely makes any sound and they just kinda fade into the background.

Do your door panels still buzz on the bass hits? I was listening to "Devil Inside" by INXS, which isn't especially bass heavy and it sounded terrible. At the beginning of the song when it is just the bassline and some light synth, both door panels were buzzing on every bass hit. I kept turning the bass down in the factory EQ down but it just wouldn't go away. Drives me nuts.

-Geoff

[DualSS]

Originally Posted by SomeGeoffGuy

Do your door panels still buzz on the bass hits? I was listening to "Devil Inside" by INXS, which isn't especially bass heavy and it sounded terrible. At the beginning of the song when it is just the bassline and some light synth, both door panels were buzzing on every bass hit. I kept turning the bass down in the factory EQ down but it just wouldn't go away. Drives me nuts.

-Geoff

That's a good question, I'll have to get back to you on that. I have Bass turned to "0" notches on the equalizer, but from what I recall when I drove the car a few days ago, the only vibrations to be felt were coming from the sub in the trunk. But yeah, the exaggerated mids and bass from the Bose amp disappear once your ETH1 is connected to an aftermarket amp, of course your sound will probably differ from mine depending on how you tune your amp and ETH1 built-in DSP.....

[SomeGeoffGuy]

Originally Posted by DualSS

That's a good question, I'll have to get back to you on that. I have Bass turned to "0" notches on the equalizer, but from what I recall when I drove the car a few days ago, the only vibrations to be felt were coming from the sub in the trunk. But yeah, the exaggerated mids and bass from the Bose amp disappear once your ETH1 is connected to an aftermarket amp, of course your sound will probably differ from mine depending on how you tune your amp and ETH1 built-in DSP.....

Sounds great - thank you. I am to the point of looking at an inline filter to thin the bass out. It sounds terrible! Either that or maybe tear down the door and try to quiet it down. Ugghhh.

-Geoff

[DualSS]

Originally Posted by SomeGeoffGuy

Sounds great - thank you. I am to the point of looking at an inline filter to thin the bass out. It sounds terrible! Either that or maybe tear down the door and try to quiet it down. Ugghhh.

-Geoff

Inline filter?
Tear down the door? You mean like to install some dynamat?

[SomeGeoffGuy]

Originally Posted by DualSS

Inline filter?
Tear down the door? You mean like to install some dynamat?

I think the door needs some work! I am not sure what is buzzing. I assume there is a layer of plastic that is attached to the door sheet metal with some stickey stuff, then the door panel screwed/snapped/clipped on top of that to the sheet metal. So is the door panel vibrating or is the plastic vibrating? Or is the metal vibrating on itself? I would like to figure that out before I slap in some aftermarket speakers and have the same problem.

And yes, filter. Put a big cap in at like 75 or 100 Hz and see what happens.

-Geoff

[DualSS]

Originally Posted by SomeGeoffGuy

I think the door needs some work! I am not sure what is buzzing. I assume there is a layer of plastic that is attached to the door sheet metal with some stickey stuff, then the door panel screwed/snapped/clipped on top of that to the sheet metal. So is the door panel vibrating or is the plastic vibrating? Or is the metal vibrating on itself? I would like to figure that out before I slap in some aftermarket speakers and have the same problem.

And yes, filter. Put a big cap in at like 75 or 100 Hz and see what happens.

-Geoff

I mean no part of my car is rattling, is that what you mean? But aftermarket speakers by themselves won't sold the problem. The problem is the Bose amp, period. You're just gonna have to start trying stuff, experiment to see different outcomes, I can only tell you what my experience has been and unless you sit in my car and listen to the sound, you won't really know. Start a thread and let us know your findings.......

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by SomeGeoffGuy

I think the door needs some work! I am not sure what is buzzing. I assume there is a layer of plastic that is attached to the door sheet metal with some stickey stuff, then the door panel screwed/snapped/clipped on top of that to the sheet metal. So is the door panel vibrating or is the plastic vibrating? Or is the metal vibrating on itself? I would like to figure that out before I slap in some aftermarket speakers and have the same problem.

And yes, filter. Put a big cap in at like 75 or 100 Hz and see what happens.

-Geoff

My doors have no rattles, not anymore. Stock rattled and buzzed with low bass (especially EDM).

The doors are garbage as it relates to audio. Everything is flimsy. The door panels buzz as well. What I did was extreme, for sure, but I have sub bass coming from my doors now with zero rattles.

If I were to take a budget approach, I'd start with the door panel itself. Butyl rope around all of the mating panels would be a good start, along with some CCF on the boomerang shaped trim piece. I have a video series on treating these doors that I have processed, I just need to upload, but my build log shows it as well.

[SomeGeoffGuy]

Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive

My doors have no rattles, not anymore. Stock rattled and buzzed with low bass (especially EDM).

The doors are garbage as it relates to audio. Everything is flimsy. The door panels buzz as well. What I did was extreme, for sure, but I have sub bass coming from my doors now with zero rattles.

If I were to take a budget approach, I'd start with the door panel itself. Butyl rope around all of the mating panels would be a good start, along with some CCF on the boomerang shaped trim piece. I have a video series on treating these doors that I have processed, I just need to upload, but my build log shows it as well.

Great link - thank you. I need to do something similar. I was wondering what to do with those large holes...

-Geoff