[wolfdog]

Originally Posted by Choda

Here are my AC lines. Both are heat wrapped. The one that usually mounts to the shock tower is ran out from the condenser, into the inner fender and then up behind the brake booster. I have another section of heat wrap to do the last section by the brake booster.

Thank you very much!

[wolfdog]

i like your oil feed mod!

I'm curious about the oil pressure drop on these cars with turbo added...have you logged it? not like we use afm but i am retaining vvt for stage one so the thought crossed my mind.

I may end up using a turbosmart OPR to regulate 40psi to the turbo...help out the system a bit.

[Choda]

Originally Posted by wolfdog

i like your oil feed mod!

I'm curious about the oil pressure drop on these cars with turbo added...have you logged it? not like we use afm but i am retaining vvt for stage one so the thought crossed my mind.

I may end up using a turbosmart OPR to regulate 40psi to the turbo...help out the system a bit.

Yeah, I hope this new feed method works well. I did not see an oil pressure drop with the turbo because Ive always had turbo, so I dont know what it would be without the turbo. I also know my oil pressure has never been "low".

100% get rid of vvt if you are going FI. 100%. It works great for small power upgrades or NA combos. Once you start making big power, esp with turbo. It cost me my last motor.

[KingLT1]

VVT needs to go bye bye with about any cam swap even NA. It's ok for bolt-on mild NA stuff but even more aggressive H/C cars benefit a ton by removing it all together. The cam phaser is just not designed to handle the increased valve train load and rpm from a cam that requires substantially more spring pressure to control the valves.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

VVT needs to go bye bye with about any cam swap even NA. It's ok for bolt-on mild NA stuff but even more aggressive H/C cars benefit a ton by removing it all together. The cam phaser is just not designed to handle the increased valve train load and rpm from a cam that requires substantially more spring pressure to control the valves.

I just picked up the EL-C7 cam from Texas speed with a zero phaser block. You have me thinking now, should I get the LS sprocket? That’s an extra $500.

Here’s some good info for tuning out the VVT.

https://youtu.be/NtBPWIXCBQA

[KingLT1]

Why didn't you get Pray's stage 3? You have been on Jorge's YT channel and seen the results. It will make as much or more power then the EL-C7 and drive better. The lockout kit for the stock phaser seems to work for most NA stuff.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Why didn't you get Pray's stage 3? You have been on Jorge's YT channel and seen the results. It will make as much or more power then the EL-C7 and drive better. The lockout kit for the stock phaser seems to work for most NA stuff.

I have seen both results and picked the Texas Speed. It was like flipping a coin.

Both guys Pray and Jorge’s channel great work and info. Once I get it in the car and after first tune from shop I will be jumping on a remote dyno for Pray to tune with E85.

[wolfdog]

Originally Posted by Choda

Yeah, I hope this new feed method works well. I did not see an oil pressure drop with the turbo because Ive always had turbo, so I dont know what it would be without the turbo. I also know my oil pressure has never been "low".

100% get rid of vvt if you are going FI. 100%. It works great for small power upgrades or NA combos. Once you start making big power, esp with turbo. It cost me my last motor.

Ditching the phaser is in the plan using the LME VVT delete when I start building the motor...just the mass of the phaser scares me...let alone the oil pressure fluctuation (if its a thing)

The LME cover comes with an o-ring too so no rtv...and looks nice.
https://latemodelengines.com/lme-bil...ont-cover.html

In the mean time i just want to get the turbo system up and running soundly at low boost (going to kill me to not turn it up)...save up some cash for the next round of parts and build a motor on the side.

[wolfdog]

Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2

Here’s some good info for tuning out the VVT.

https://youtu.be/NtBPWIXCBQA

I watched some of his stuff...until he fragged his ring lands lol...I did feel for the guy.

[Choda]

if you guys scroll back a couple pages, I have pics of the LME billet front cover I have. Its a really nice piece and sitting on the shelf waiting to be installed. Not only does it remove the bulky and heavy phaser with a single cam gear it but also looks sweet =].


Katech said a few more weeks on the oil pump.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by Choda

if you guys scroll back a couple pages, I have pics of the LME billet front cover I have. Its a really nice piece and sitting on the shelf waiting to be installed. Not only does it remove the bulky and heavy phaser with a single cam gear it but also looks sweet =].


Katech said a few more weeks on the oil pump.

Nice thanks for pointing that out. I am not a turbo guy, always NA and nitrous. I just might have to read your entire post and pick up a few things. Knowledge is the key closely followed by tools and desire.

[Choda]

Katech emailed me that the oil pump is shipping. Finally.

Bought a new meth pump and changing hose.
Cleaning up the brake booster / vac pump hoses
More Heat protectant
Break in oil. Br30 5w30
O2 sensor extensions and sensor for the turbo header.
Ground strap
Second garage heater lol
Vac/boost dist block
Msd 2step wire clean up
New Plug wires

[Choda]

There is a ground strap thread for hot cranking slowness. Most use the water pump bolt and neg post by the fuse box.

Chevy has a ground from that to the engine already and I don’t want a ground strap on my water pump.

I’m going from the front clip bolt/body to the back of the passenger head. I buzzed the paint off the body and underside of the head of the bolt.

[SSDan]

Originally Posted by Choda

There is a ground strap thread for hot cranking slowness. Most use the water pump bolt and neg post by the fuse box.

Chevy has a ground from that to the engine already and I don’t want a ground strap on my water pump.

I’m going from the front clip bolt/body to the back of the passenger head. I buzzed the paint off the body and underside of the head of the bolt.

I've enjoyed following your journey for big hp. I like to follow these engine build threads even though I don't have the skills, tools or the desire to do such a thing for my own car - it's still cool to watch others and see the results.

If you don't mind - once you finish the ground cable installation - could you post a couple of photos in my thread about hot cranking slowness? I'm hoping to keep that thread alive with fresh ideas and several different solutions for where and how to attach the ground cable. I know that there still are many people out there dealing with this. Thanks