[Teneck83]

Has anyone found a permanent solution to the self loosening problem of the drivers side front end link but?

[JeromeS13]

Yes. Locktite...

[nasbagoat]

There is a GM bulletin to replace the nuts with a different style of nut and to use locktite.



Condition
Some customers may have a concern where they hear a clunk or rattle noise coming from the front of the vehicle when hitting bumps. This can typically be heard while driving at parking lot speeds and hitting imperfections or speed bumps in the road.
Cause
This noise may be caused by the front stabilizer bar end link nut(s) loosening up which may cause the stabilizer bar end link(s) to make a rattle noise. This can happen on either/both side(s) of the vehicle. This noise can easily be mistaken for a front strut and/or strut mount assembly noise.

CorrectionDealership technicians are to inspect the upper and lower stabilizer end link nuts for proper torque.
Note: To remove the end link nuts, first use an allen wrench or a hex socket to hold the internal shaft stationary. Then use a wrench to remove / reinstall the nut.

Front Stabilizer Link to Strut (upper) Attachment:

• Remove the end link nut and discard it.
• Replace it with a new nut (PN 11548382).
• Tighten the nut to 89 foot pounds (120 Nm).

Front Stabilizer Link to Stabilizer Bar (lower) Attachment:

• Remove end link nut and discard it.
• Inspect and clean the stabilizer end link ball stud threads to make sure they are not damaged. Apply high temperature/high strength thread locker (PN 89021297) to the threads.
• Replace the nut with a new one (PN 11548382).
• Tighten the nut to 96 foot pounds (130 Nm).

[Th3Beast]

Will be getting this done soon. I've used locktite on mine and tightened to all hell (and it's worked for a good while), but there is no GD way I can get those nuts to almost 100 ft lbs with needing to use an allen to stop the shaft from turning.

[Emoto]

Originally Posted by nasbagoat

There is a GM bulletin to replace the nuts with a different style of nut and to use locktite.



Condition
Some customers may have a concern where they hear a clunk or rattle noise coming from the front of the vehicle when hitting bumps. This can typically be heard while driving at parking lot speeds and hitting imperfections or speed bumps in the road.
Cause
This noise may be caused by the front stabilizer bar end link nut(s) loosening up which may cause the stabilizer bar end link(s) to make a rattle noise. This can happen on either/both side(s) of the vehicle. This noise can easily be mistaken for a front strut and/or strut mount assembly noise.

CorrectionDealership technicians are to inspect the upper and lower stabilizer end link nuts for proper torque.
Note: To remove the end link nuts, first use an allen wrench or a hex socket to hold the internal shaft stationary. Then use a wrench to remove / reinstall the nut.

Front Stabilizer Link to Strut (upper) Attachment:

• Remove the end link nut and discard it.
• Replace it with a new nut (PN 11548382).
• Tighten the nut to 89 foot pounds (120 Nm).

Front Stabilizer Link to Stabilizer Bar (lower) Attachment:

• Remove end link nut and discard it.
• Inspect and clean the stabilizer end link ball stud threads to make sure they are not damaged. Apply high temperature/high strength thread locker (PN 89021297) to the threads.
• Replace the nut with a new one (PN 11548382).
• Tighten the nut to 96 foot pounds (130 Nm).

I wish I could see the section on what those numbers apply to, but when I click, it says not authorized.

The reason is that unless I am mistaken, the different models (1LE, SS, ZL1) may use some different parts originally. I don't know if this bulletin applies ONLY to the 1LE or if it also covers others and the fix is that they all get the same parts? Sorry if this is off-topic.

[Teneck83]

I also ordered 12mm nordlock washers. Will be giving them a try as well

[nasbagoat]

The replacement nuts have washers on them I believe.

[Teneck83]

I ordered them too. Already had the dealership attempt to address the issue the first time. This go around will be doing it myself

[Boost Creep]

I'm not a locktite expert, but it looks like the locktite they are specing will make removing the end link later near impossible. That's like the permanent locktite.
You will need a torch to remove and it will make the end link unusable.

The upper gets no locktite and the lower is super locktited?

[TRZ06]

Originally Posted by Boost Creep

I'm not a locktite expert, but it looks like the locktite they are specing will make removing the end link later near impossible. That's like the permanent locktite.
You will need a torch to remove and it will make the end link unusable.

Good point. There are several different strengths of lock-tite, need to find the appropriate one for the intended use.

[Boost Creep]

Originally Posted by TRZ06

Good point. There are several different strengths of lock-tite, need to find the appropriate one for the intended use.

I tried to do a quick search of the part number to find out which locktite they wanted and it looked like the stuff that requires a torch and high torque to remove. And I don't see that scenario working out too well with 96ft/lb torque, an oxy-acetyline torch, and an allen wrench.

[kropscamaro16]

i have aftermarket endlinks but still seem to loosen over time lol sucks

[carguy55]

Mine just started making this sound after 4000 miles and 8 track days. How the heck do you torque the nut if you have to have a allen wrench in the center of it? Possible using a crowfoot or using a true changeable head torque wrench as opposed to a socket style?

[JeromeS13]

Originally Posted by carguy55

Mine just started making this sound after 4000 miles and 8 track days. How the heck do you torque the nut if you have to have a allen wrench in the center of it? Possible using a crowfoot or using a true changeable head torque wrench as opposed to a socket style?

German spec. Gudentite or ubertite....