[MackSteelPrivateEye]

Originally Posted by mr_lance2015

Hey everyone, so my 2017 SS Camaro might be time to get a new clutch. I'm at about 30,000 mi on it, it's been my daily / fun car no major big upgrades except for mishimoto intake and I just got me a set of borla attack carbon fiber dual mode axle-back mufflers I was hoping to put on first, but I might need to do a clutch job before that.
I think the last straw was when we were trying to go up to the mountains this last weekend and it was 2 hours of uphill stop and go traffic, I didn't think anything of it at first but an hour and a half later we started smelling some burning pulled off to the side of the road open the hood and there was smoke coming from the clutch area. Waiting for it to cool down and it was working okay. next day we tried another mountain ran into some stop and go, only spent 5 minutes before I decided to turn around this time but then I started to smell a faint burning smell again not as bad as before , went away shortly but has me wondering if the clutch is probably on its last leg. I figure it's going to be a 2k+ job, but I don't know if I want to go stock OEM again for the clutch, was wondering if there's any better options out there for the SS Camaro. I looked and saw phastek has a nice twin disc kit for around 1300 or so but curious if it's a good upgrade over stock

43k on my 17' Clutch still works good.

[MackSteelPrivateEye]

So easy to test it...launch from a stop and go through all the gears aggressively....well at least through 3rd gear....any higher and you will be in triple digits. If no slip it should be good.

[UnknownJinX]

Originally Posted by Alpha1BC

Be more "digital" with the clutch. If you do creep forward with traffic, try to always fully release the clutch pedal any time you move and not half-depressed to let it creep slower. Especially on a grade, driving with a partially pressed clutch pedal will fry any clutch with ease in stop/go traffic since that's when the clutch is actually slipping and generating the most heat.

I will add, if it's flat ground, you could just slip the clutch a little bit to get the car moving, then immediately push the clutch back in and use the inertia to creep forward. That can also save clutch life.

Originally Posted by MackSteelPrivateEye

So easy to test it...launch from a stop and go through all the gears aggressively....well at least through 3rd gear....any higher and you will be in triple digits. If no slip it should be good.

I have heard that usually you test a slipping clutch by putting the car in higher gears and depress the gas a bit when cruising. Supposedly that's when slippage will become more apparent. Not sure if it's true, as I have never had issues with a slipping clutch myself.

[kropscamaro16]

my cavalier had over 100k still on stock clutch and my cobalt ss had over 75k and still on stock clutch lol never actually replaced a clutch in any of my cars

[mr_lance2015]

Good news it sounds like it's not fried after all , it sounds like it might have taken some life off but it's still doing ok, actually it's funny cuz it feels a little firmer than it did before almost like I burnt it in or something, but yeah no more uphill stop and go like that that was retarded, that's what happens when it it snows in SoCal, everyone under the sun wants to go up and see at the same time, I'm bringing the wife's auto next time around ��

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by mr_lance2015

Good news it sounds like it's not fried after all , it sounds like it might have taken some life off but it's still doing ok, actually it's funny cuz it feels a little firmer than it did before almost like I burnt it in or something, but yeah no more uphill stop and go like that that was retarded,

Good, it sounds like you heated up the clutch and, yes, took, some life off of it. You want to avoid that.
If you heat it up too much you risk glazing the clutch/flywheel. It takes a lot of heat/abuse to do that, so I think you are fine.
After a few weeks of normal driving, you can give it a little test. Get it up to like 40 mph in 4th gear, then give it some gas. If the rpm's shoot up and the car lags you have slippage.
You don't even need to do this if everything seems fine (no slip). But if you are loosing sleep over the possibility of glazing, this should ease your mind.

[Camrochris]

Originally Posted by mr_lance2015

Hey everyone, so my 2017 SS Camaro might be time to get a new clutch. I'm at about 30,000 mi on it, it's been my daily / fun car no major big upgrades except for mishimoto intake and I just got me a set of borla attack carbon fiber dual mode axle-back mufflers I was hoping to put on first, but I might need to do a clutch job before that.
I think the last straw was when we were trying to go up to the mountains this last weekend and it was 2 hours of uphill stop and go traffic, I didn't think anything of it at first but an hour and a half later we started smelling some burning pulled off to the side of the road open the hood and there was smoke coming from the clutch area. Waiting for it to cool down and it was working okay. next day we tried another mountain ran into some stop and go, only spent 5 minutes before I decided to turn around this time but then I started to smell a faint burning smell again not as bad as before , went away shortly but has me wondering if the clutch is probably on its last leg. I figure it's going to be a 2k+ job, but I don't know if I want to go stock OEM again for the clutch, was wondering if there's any better options out there for the SS Camaro. I looked and saw phastek has a nice twin disc kit for around 1300 or so but curious if it's a good upgrade over stock

You should have got a "clutch overuse warning" before this level of damage happened. Did you get that warning in the LCD part of your I/P.
Frankly, you did good getting it to 30k on one clutch
Going uphill in the mountains in stop snd got is not a good place for a clutch failure. I smelled ot in mine at 3700 miles, replaced everything OEM....and my clutch is giving me h**l again.
I am putting an HD XTS clutch with a heavy duty pressure plate to make up for the 1/15th of an inch defect between the clutch and the flywheel causing a lack of pressure against it and the clutch.
Are you aware that instead of sharing the master cylinder with steering and brakes, it is now shared between the brakes and the clutch. Turning off trac and stab ctrl. By pressing trac off for 10 secs it also turns off b4nn,h and press$$"çure plate that will have it's own fuid. $399 for it, plus $1000+ to install.
B: Just trade it as is for a Jetta GLI, Civic Si, Kia Optima turbo....or even a Honda Accord Sport turbo.

You will need to clear any codes with a OBD2 code reader and reset and clear any MIL'S. A Lainch brand Code or Creader is cheap, portable, and will clear the codes . Yeah...I love my little LAUNCH Creader 3001 2022 version
Its like $25 including shipping and tax.

[Coded4SS]

These clutches will hold the power but they won't last if you track them and drive hard a lot. A lot of people have had clutches go around 20-50k miles even not driving hard. They are hit and miss on top of that the throw out bearing sits in a plastic housing and it feels like trash and has many premature failures. I def won't be putting OEM clutch in. I'll go aftermarket throw out bearing maybe ACT or one of the other good brand clutches.