09-26-2021, 12:10 AM | #15 | |
Drives: 2017 SS 1LE, 2016 1SS (previous) Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Metro-Detroit
Posts: 1,863
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Quote:
I don’t get your position: If its not X-Tracker bearings they’re garbage, but if they are, they aren’t regardless of the fact the bearings aren’t an “issue” on these cars? |
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09-26-2021, 05:07 AM | #16 |
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09-26-2021, 05:41 PM | #17 | |
Drives: Track prepped 2018 Camaro ZL1 (a10) Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,384
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Quote:
https://centricparts.com/part-detail...t&model=camaro https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-512399 Moog says theirs are billet steel instead of cast
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2018 ZL1; Mag 2650 and 2 inch LT Headers , every SPL suspension upgrade, MCS 2 way coilovers, sway bars, square SC3R 325's all the way around, and multiple brake cooling upgrades
Last edited by GunMetalGrey; 09-26-2021 at 05:53 PM. |
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09-26-2021, 05:45 PM | #18 | |
Drives: Track prepped 2018 Camaro ZL1 (a10) Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,384
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Quote:
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2018 ZL1; Mag 2650 and 2 inch LT Headers , every SPL suspension upgrade, MCS 2 way coilovers, sway bars, square SC3R 325's all the way around, and multiple brake cooling upgrades
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09-26-2021, 08:50 PM | #19 | |
Drives: Chevrolet SS 1LE Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: St. Charles, MO
Posts: 1,446
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Quote:
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Matt Miller
2020 SS 1LE |
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09-27-2021, 07:41 AM | #20 | |
Drives: 2016 2SS BLK A8 Vert Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: MA
Posts: 1,029
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Quote:
I'll add, that I had some uneven rolling resistance from them. Which is why I originally bought mine to replace. They certainly get loaded up (G-force/weight), and see a ton of heat. With all the other metal fatigue, it was definitely time. Hope you get them in your hands soon...
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NPP, MRC, Tinted side & rear reflectors, OEM ZL1 Rockers / 3rd Brake / Darken tail lights, OEM Blk rear splash guards, Satin hood wrap, Fuse pull, Sound tube delete, Cat delete, Ported 95 TB, Ported MSD IM, Dry RotoFab, ARH 1 7/8 headers, E85, "Performance Dyno" Tune, BMR "pieces", "Track" alignment, Hawk DCT-70/70's w/SRF, Goodridge lines, Ti shims, Red powdered calipers, 18" APEX SM-10's w/ Pirelli DH's, FE4 Vert swaybars, Brake cooling ducts, ATI 10% UD, Vorshlag camber plates, OEM 1LE Splitter w/APR Ext., Velossa BIG MOUTH Ram Air, CF QA1, ZLE brakes(F)
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09-27-2021, 08:41 AM | #21 | ||
Drives: 2017 1SS 1LE Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,001
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Quote:
Quote:
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2017 SS 1LE.
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09-27-2021, 10:44 AM | #22 | ||
Drives: 2017 Blue Camaro 1SS 1LE with PDR Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 960
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Well I was surprised to find a lot of play in one of my rear wheels a few days ago when doing the usual wheel wiggle test with each corner jacked up. The car has around 40k miles and about 30 track days plus around 10 autocross days from my 3 years of ownership and the previous owner probably tracked the car too judging by the heat checks that were on the front rotors when I bought it. I do usually drive over/on curbs on track in places where it helps generate faster laps since the FE4 suspension soaks them up...that may have accelerated the wheel bearing's failure. 7 of those days were at NOLA which has a lot of right hand turns but specifically turn 8 is entered above 120mph while on the gas and then I use the curbing on the right with my right tires before braking which is probably asking a lot from the left side wheel bearings.
I just installed an OEM replacement hub and it fixed the issue. I am now planning to start doing the wheel wiggle test a few weeks before every track/autocross event even though most organizer's tech forms do not list wheel bearing checks. I think it had been several months since I last checked, partially since the Harbor Freight 1.5 ton aluminum jack I brought with me on my track road trip stopped working after the first event and I figured I would hear or feel symptoms of a wheel bearing going bad while driving on track but I didn't. Quote:
I suspect that the unsettling feeling of the car occasionally doing a rear end shake/wobble side to side for several seconds before going back to normal on its own was my early warning symptom. It happened a few times while on cruise control and light to moderate throttle on the highway over uneven roads and once while going full throttle in 2nd gear to pass on an uneven 2 lane road. It happened once while I was speeding and it was more sketchy than at normal highway speeds that I drove at for most of the trip. That started about 4 months ago but the car was packed full with tools and a spare set of 4 wheels with tires mounted for my roadtrip so I figured it was just from the weight balance being shifted rearwards and I never noticed it while driving on track without all of the added weight in the car. After the trip it happened again a few times on a nearby on ramp with the car empty but I increased the rear tire pressure from 28 to 32psi and that "fixed" it after repeated additional tests. I'll post here if the shake/wobble comes back but I doubt it will. Quote:
Did anyone check rear alignment after replacing a rear wheel bearing to see if it was off? It is mentioned in the shop manual after reconnecting the rear links. I'm thinking it might be a good idea to do the other side preventatively before getting the alignment checked but not looking forward to doing the job again. Also there was no evidence of red threadlocker on the 2 brake caliper bolts or 3 hub bolts but the shop manual says to use it on them during reassembly. Does anyone know if that is normal from the factory or possibly an indication that the previous owner already replaced the same hub without using the threadlocker? These bolts were all uniformly tight with no evidence of being under torqued when I removed them. Also the 5 year/60k mile powertrain warranty excludes hubs/bearings which I expected. I think they would be covered by the 3 year/36k mile bumper to bumper warranty though. Instead of removing the links, the shop manual recommends removing and discarding the 6 bolts and lock washers going into the eDiff, using an axle puller to remove it from that end for hub/bearing replacement, and reinstalling it with 6 new replacement bolts and lock washers but I didn't try this method. Last edited by cdrptrks; 09-27-2021 at 01:29 PM. |
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09-27-2021, 04:04 PM | #23 | |
Drives: 2017 Blue Camaro 1SS 1LE with PDR Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 960
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Here's how you check the wheel bearings...didn't even need to use both hands to get obvious movement and noise from the wheel with it jacked up in the air!
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09-27-2021, 09:37 PM | #24 | |
Drives: Chevrolet SS 1LE Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: St. Charles, MO
Posts: 1,446
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Quote:
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Matt Miller
2020 SS 1LE |
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09-27-2021, 10:08 PM | #25 |
Drives: 98 Firebird CMC Race Car Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Avon, IN
Posts: 10
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I'll just throw out some old school info since I'm still shopping for my first Gen6.
4th gen F-bodys had the same set up for front wheels. Had a stick axle, so no rear "hubs". Anyway, on the race car, front hubs were considered a consumable, lasting 3-6 race weekends using OEM junk yard hubs. I always carried a few in the trailer. The problem was GM didn't make the hubs any more. So you had a choice of new Chinese "OEM" parts or junk yard parts. We (meaning all the f-body guys in our group) always chose junk yard over brand new Auto Zone parts. The name brand stuff would not even last 1 weekend without failing. Eventually, someone made an adapter for Corvette SKF hubs and Coleman even made a traditional snout/bearing set up: http://www.colemanracing.com/Gen-IV-...tor-P6256.aspx 5/6 gen will eventually run into this same issue when GM stops making the hubs. Until then, my experience says always buy OEM hubs. HTH |
09-28-2021, 01:03 AM | #26 |
Drives: 2017 Blue Camaro 1SS 1LE with PDR Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 960
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Went for my first drive outside of the neighborhood on the new hub tonight and realized another symptom of the bad wheel bearing was more brake pedal travel before engagement and less initial bite. I noticed it after a track night at Harris Hill in June and a full brake fluid flush with fresh fluid did not fix the issue which was strange. But the car still stopped fine even under theshold braking on track so I thought it may have been caused by tapered pad wear and stopped thinking about it, but the issue is now gone with the new hub installed and the old tapered pads still in place.
I saw the brake pads were loose when I removed them which I never saw during past pad thickness checks and replacements. They were probably knocked back away from the rotor by the slop in the bad hub every time I released the brake pedal. For reference I did successfully resolve a similar feeling soft brake pedal issue in March at NOLA by flushing the front calipers after trying G3R tires for 2 sessions and overheating my StopTech pads and slightly boiling my brake fluid. In that case I had PDR video showing decreased stopping g forces with the same (or more) brake pedal pressure applied. |
09-28-2021, 07:53 AM | #27 | |
Drives: Chevrolet SS 1LE Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: St. Charles, MO
Posts: 1,446
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Quote:
__________________
Matt Miller
2020 SS 1LE |
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10-06-2021, 05:02 PM | #28 |
Drives: Track prepped 2018 Camaro ZL1 (a10) Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,384
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I purchased wheel hubs from Moog for around $200 a piece because they are in stock, unlike the OEM ones which (according to my dealership) are back ordered with no ETA
If this turns out to be the solution to the issue I’m having, I’ll be interested to see how long these wheel hubs last in comparison to the stock ones.
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2018 ZL1; Mag 2650 and 2 inch LT Headers , every SPL suspension upgrade, MCS 2 way coilovers, sway bars, square SC3R 325's all the way around, and multiple brake cooling upgrades
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