09-22-2021, 11:44 AM | #99 |
Drives: 2016 Chevy Camaro 2SS Convertible Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Indiana
Posts: 3
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Curiously, has anyone tried to just cut a small hole in the old regulator for the new clip? I was thinking of taking a dremel and routing out the hole for the new trim clip, but I wondered if someone else had tried and failed, or someone smarter than me knew why that was a really terrible idea. I figured worst case I'd have to have it replaced, which as of now I'm going to have to do anyhow.
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09-22-2021, 11:45 AM | #100 |
Drives: 2016 Chevy Camaro 2SS Convertible Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Indiana
Posts: 3
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09-22-2021, 04:48 PM | #101 | |
Drives: 2016 2SS Convertible Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 200
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Quote:
My issue was the arm that holds the spring broke off the trim panel door on the LH side. But, I replaced both sides. I figured if the LH side failed, the RH side, being the old design, would probably fail soon too. Anyway, after looking at it, you might could drill a pilot hole, then using a Dremel, shape it into a slot for that new 3rd clip. But it's close, I suspect the new regulators are shaped a little differently to accommodate the additional 3rd retaining clip. Regardless, you don't have anything to loose by trying. I can see how the additional retaining clip gives the quarter trim panel a little more support, but I didn't think I needed the 3rd clip because my issue was the arm the holds the spring broke off the trim panel door. Photo 1: Yellow circle shows the additional reinforcement on the arm that retains the spring. Green circle is the new 3rd retaining clip. Photo 2: New quarter upper trim panel installed. Red circle is what remains of the 3rd retaining clip mount. Photo 3: Regulator panel with the red circle showing about where a slot would be needed to accommodate the new 3rd retaining clip. --KLG--
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2016 2SS Convertible; SIM; Black & Ceramic White interior; M6; NPP; DD LED side marker lamps & back-up lamps; LED trunk lamps, license plate lamps & front T/S lamps; 3rd brake light pulser; Skip-shift eliminator; Borla s-type non-npp axle backs; Weather-Tech floor mats, trunk mat, rear license plate frame/cover; GM fuel door; ZL1addons rock guards; Removed fender badges, front & rear SS badges; JLT CAI, tune, oil separator; RP Synchromax in transmission; RP MaxGear in rear differential; GM Lowering Suspension Upgrade; Dimple oil filter magnets & magnetic oil drain plug; 3M Ceramic window tint.
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09-22-2021, 05:24 PM | #102 |
Drives: 2017 ZL1 Vert M6 Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 477
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09-27-2021, 01:05 PM | #103 | ||
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My photo follows, showing the old and new parts (of course the spring and mount are gone from the old one, yet to be located!). Will post back if the new design fails! |
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10-13-2021, 06:32 PM | #104 | |
Drives: 2016 Chevy Camaro 2SS Convertible Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Indiana
Posts: 3
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Thanks! I have the trim piece coming in the next few days and will dry making the hole with a dremel and see. We're very well connected to several Chevy dealerships through a family member, and even leaning in for favors, absolutely no assistance from GM on this. Really, really ridiculous on a $50k car with less than 20k miles, but here we are...
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12-12-2021, 10:02 PM | #105 | |
Drives: 2017 ZL1 Vert M6 Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 477
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Quote:
Last edited by Plasar; 12-16-2021 at 10:20 PM. |
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07-30-2022, 03:14 PM | #106 |
Drives: 2017 ZL1 6spd Convertible NFG Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 109
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Did anyone ever try making a slot in the original regulator for the extra clip?
Nevermind. After taking the panel off my 2017, I found that it has the extra clip and slot in the regulator, but not the reinforcement for the spring. The tab that gets pushed is on the side of the panel, not in the middle, and that creates torque. If I push in the middle of the sliding panel it easily opens, pushing on the tab makes it want to twist. That seems like another poor choice in this design. Last edited by L98 Z28; 07-30-2022 at 03:52 PM. |
07-30-2022, 05:34 PM | #107 | |
Drives: 2016 1LT 'Vert Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: Midwest
Posts: 171
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Made my own slot
Quote:
I had actually purchased a new regulator as a replacement, but when I saw how involved it would be to replace it, I decided to create the slot in the old regulator while it was still in the vehicle. If it didn't work, no worries, I'd just replace the regulator, but I felt milling the hole would be quicker and easier. First I created a cardboard template using the new regulator as a guide. The template is located by the two vertical studs on the top of the reg. I used a sharpie to transfer the slot positions onto the cardboard and an xacto to cut them out. At the vehicle I lremoved the trim to gain access to the regulator and placed the template over the vertical studs and nuts. Again using a sharpie to "transfer" the position of the new slot to the old regulator. I used a center punch to mark the center of the radii at the ends of the slot and drilled through. I had a shop vac nozzle trained on the bit to pick up loose fragments and chips of metal to minimize risk of them getting into the linkages and elswhere. Still quite messy. I hogged out the remainder of the slot using a dremel and an appropriate attachments. I made the slot undersize initially and fine-tuned the size with the dremel until I was happy with it. So far, upon replacing the linkages & rail (all of which were bent to hell), the slider and the closeout panel (which was also broken beyond use), all seems to be working as excpected. I'm sure I have several dozen operations on the top since the repair. I will say the passenger side is silent, the driver's side continues to creak as the top articulates. I'm keeping an eye on it. When the driver's finally side gives up, I plan to use the template again, but upside down... As a side note, when I replaced the linkage that is attached with two rivets, I used screws and lock nuts. The rivets provided have a larger shank than my rivet tool was able to accomodate. This seemed to be the case unless I wanted to spend $$$ for a more "professional" tool. Less than $10 at the local hardware store for screws and nuts seemed like a better option. |
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10-16-2022, 04:23 PM | #108 |
Welp, here it is roughly a year later, and the driver side just failed. I should have replaced both last year. Oh well. Here I go again. Got Part # 84797935 on order.
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10-07-2023, 10:53 PM | #109 |
Drives: 2017 2LT Garnet Red Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Streamwood, IL
Posts: 125
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Well better than never to the party, well my 2017 Camaro on the driver side broke and today took that top cover off and saw the spring clamp part was broke and that caused the sound I herd and of course the new GM top cover has 3 clips and like others see a few drilling a slot and if that fails I am thinking ordering a new "2016-2023 CHEVY CAMARO REAR LEFT SIDE QUARTER WINDOW REGULATOR W/ MOTOR" and instead of removing and not sure how hard that would be and so far found no video on how to remove those quarter windows regulators, anyone have a video or step by step guide? I am not going to pay GM that much money for a design defect! With a TSB doc GM should cover this!!
My other idea is remove that top metal part that has the 3 holes/slots and replace it with the 2 holes/slots plate? WHY NOT? I see 5 bolts/nuts to remove and that plate should just come up and off and then put the 3 new plate back on? Anyone done or tried this? Looks like a loctite has been used at least on the top 2 nuts with a yellow paint, like a DON'T REMOVE WARNING, but from what I see that top plate holds the window/regulator in place and before I remove the 2 top nuts and measure with a digital callper and get say 23mm for the left bolt and 24mm on the right and gust set them for that but from the pics that top plate just tighten until it's tight right? Any thoughts on just replacing the top plate? Thanks Christopher Last edited by cengell; 10-07-2023 at 11:11 PM. Reason: added pic |
10-11-2023, 11:11 PM | #110 |
Drives: 2017 2LT Garnet Red Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Streamwood, IL
Posts: 125
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I guess no one has done to tried to replace just the top plate, instead of replacing the whole Regulator?
Christopher |
11-06-2023, 07:43 PM | #111 |
Thank you Al Oppenheiser!
Drives: Red Hot A10 ZL1 Convertible Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 4,973
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Well after 6-1/2 years and 9800 miles, my number came up. The springs on both panels popped at the exact same time, one got snagged and broke, and I was able to slide the other in. Ordered both top panels and a pair of pusher arms. Fortunately my build date is May'17 so regulators are not needed.
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11-21-2023, 07:52 PM | #112 |
Thank you Al Oppenheiser!
Drives: Red Hot A10 ZL1 Convertible Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 4,973
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New parts arrived from gmpartsdirect aka flow automotive after a 2 week wait, including a few days extra for VIN & part # verification. My failures were identical to what Argus shows above. Removed the broken bits and reinstalled the new without issue.
Back on the road and making lots of smiles per mile! |
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