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Old 05-31-2017, 12:02 PM   #15
FNxR3DNECK


 
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I took mine to the dealer before my 1st Auto X event, had diff fluid changed, brake fluid changed to DOT 4, and track alignment done. Cost me $287, so yea sounds like you got a little hosed...
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Old 05-31-2017, 12:57 PM   #16
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How many of those 32 ounce jugs again? 3?
2. It takes all of one and about 1/2-3/4 of the second. I used an OTC fluid transfer syringe from Amazon and it worked out well.

When it starts dripping/running out of the fill (car should be as close to parallel with the ground as possible), grab the fill plug and screw it in. Good to go.
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Old 05-31-2017, 01:24 PM   #17
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2. It takes all of one and about 1/2-3/4 of the second. I used an OTC fluid transfer syringe from Amazon and it worked out well.

When it starts dripping/running out of the fill (car should be as close to parallel with the ground as possible), grab the fill plug and screw it in. Good to go.
Thanks man!
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Old 06-01-2017, 06:19 AM   #18
SS 1LE
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2. It takes all of one and about 1/2-3/4 of the second. I used an OTC fluid transfer syringe from Amazon and it worked out well.

...car should be as close to parallel with the ground as possible...
This is my only reason for maybe having the dealer do it...I only have Race Ramps, so I have no way to have the car to be perfectly level.
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Old 06-01-2017, 02:53 PM   #19
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I'm at 2500 miles, changing the rear diff fluid for the first time. Fluid was pretty dark, and this is what my drain plug looked like -

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Old 06-01-2017, 05:38 PM   #20
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Very similar to how mine looked. Really crappy black sludgey looking stuff on the magnets.
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Old 02-13-2021, 09:55 PM   #21
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I changed out the fluid today. I’d seen a youtuber pull this off without jacking up the car and figured I’d give it a go. Lo and behold I fit, barely. Not recommended if you’re claustrophobic! 1.6q.
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Old 02-13-2021, 10:20 PM   #22
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Went to dealer to get the rear diff fluid changed. They charged me 200$ for it. Is that normal? Feels like i am getting ripped off.
About the same here. I do it myself now.
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Old 02-13-2021, 10:22 PM   #23
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Changed mine at 1500 miles and the fluid was already a grayish color. Way darker than the new fluid that I replaced it with. Not sure how it gets dirty so fast. Maybe break-in.

Haven't locked the diff up much at all yet, but will be taking it to the track soon. Ought to be interesting to see what it looks like after a couple of track days (clear vs dirty again?)
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Old 02-13-2021, 10:31 PM   #24
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For those of you guys that have owned other fun mobiles and have swapped gears in your diff before. Crown and pinion gears usually get coated with that black oxidizing coating at manufacturing. Keeps them from rusting pre install or before their destined cars are driven. That back goo is the coating wearing off. I’ve had this during break in of every car over ever had. Usually takes the third fluid change to get it all out. But I don’t think it’s destined to damage the clutches in the diff.
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Old 02-15-2021, 12:43 PM   #25
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For those of you guys that have owned other fun mobiles and have swapped gears in your diff before. Crown and pinion gears usually get coated with that black oxidizing coating at manufacturing. Keeps them from rusting pre install or before their destined cars are driven. That back goo is the coating wearing off. I’ve had this during break in of every car over ever had. Usually takes the third fluid change to get it all out. But I don’t think it’s destined to damage the clutches in the diff.
It seems to be magnetic. When I changed mine at 1247 miles it was all over the drain plug and even the fill plug (both magnetic) had a small clump. Does it make sense that the oxidizing coating have iron in it?
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Old 02-15-2021, 01:58 PM   #26
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Chevy dealership charged $150.
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Old 02-15-2021, 03:27 PM   #27
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It seems to be magnetic. When I changed mine at 1247 miles it was all over the drain plug and even the fill plug (both magnetic) had a small clump. Does it make sense that the oxidizing coating have iron in it?
Black oxide is indeed magnetic. Fe3O4

Red oxide non magnetic and corrosive Fe2O3

Honestly in the past when I’ve build a rear end for my toys, I’ve flushed the fluid 2 or 3 times during break in. I don’t think it’s super necessary but thinking of that material collecting between the clutches bugs me. Also that materiel coming off does in theory open up the lash between the pinion and crown wheel. But this is beyond any concern for a factory street car.
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Old 02-15-2021, 08:21 PM   #28
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Thanks for the info on the black oxide. That helps explain the gray/black fluid color.

When you change it yourself, it's basically just $40 in fluid (or less - 2 containers, but only 1.6 quarts), so I guess I'll just change it more frequently until it isn't turning black any more. If indeed it takes 2 or 3 changes, I'm guessing track days will likely get accelerate getting the oxide off the gears. So maybe I'll change it again after 5 hours on the track instead of 20 (currently at 1500 miles and track days will be starting in a few months).
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