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Old 01-17-2019, 02:30 AM   #29
JaxChris

 
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Center channel helps if you are trying to align both front seats and not just the driver position. In the Sierra there is a lot more depth under the opening. In the Camaro you have 1.2" of mounting depth in the corner pockets and no room to widen the spot for 2 speakers. You are limited to 2.5" max diameter.

Back to center channel, you would need to leave the factory amp in play or replace the center with a 3.5" that can handle the power from a channel on your amp in mono unbridged. Do you have a summing device to create your center channel with? This also means leaving a channel unused on your amp as well since center is mono. If you try using the factory amp and the rest of your speakers are over 30w, your center won't image correctly since it is running nominal of 20w@2ohm on the factory amp. You won't get a matching clarity if your other speakers are running 50w+.

I wish all cares with center channel systems would do real surround instead of mirrored stereo imaging in cars. High end cars do 7.1 surround sound imaging and it is so satisfying. Give me a big center grill with two 3.5" drivers underneath running a bridged mono load and I will make my car have the spatial awareness of a serious home theatre. But I'm weird, I still like PEB from the late 90's and early 00's as my cruising music. Modern derived artists of the work, like Tipper, can really make the notes dance around you with surround enabled.

I hate to say it, but the S550 Mustang has much better separation with its' 3-way fronts plus center. It's just a shame that it is laughably underpowered, even with a "premium factory amp" and the bass rolloff is crazy aggressive so you don't hear any rattles in the car. It has the 3.5" driver and 1" tweeter in parallel at 8ohm's each for a 4ohm load, but the amp is only putting out 12-15w@4ohm. And the center channel is the same 3.5" 8ohm speaker on its' own channel getting 5-6w. The base radio driving just 4 aftermarket 3-way coaxials sounds cleaner, but there is no stage near your head using just low doors and rear shelf. The radio puts out 4x15@4ohm, the Shaker amp just gives them 7x15@4ohm instead, and if you get the pro system it has an extra 35w output for the plastic trunk sub box with an 8" plain paper woofer rolled off between 80-90hz.

Bose is all about perceived sounds (aka mental trickery) instead of just delivering a balanced, separated system like you would buy from a high-end (equally priced) brand. ANC is great and all, but when you're playing negative white noise from your speakers, they aren't creating their best reproduction of the sounds you want them to make. Oooo, but we saved 50 lbs by not installing any real sound deadening in or under the car. Profit.
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Old 01-17-2019, 05:41 PM   #30
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We kept the center channel in my V, removed it in my ZL1. Both are time aligned to me (driver), never ever time aligned a setup for both front seats since I drive alone in my car 90% of the time.

As Jax mentioned, you really want a center channel that can handle a lot of power if you are going to properly set your front stage. I purchased two sets of the Legatia L3Se 3.7" drivers, and am running them in the corners and one in the center. Extra driver kept in storage for backup. I am powering the center channel with an Audison SR2, bridged, putting out about 180watts RMS, the tweeter/mid are running passively crossed over , powered by the Class A channels of the Audison 5.1K AV HD
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Old 01-18-2019, 11:40 PM   #31
Ulisses_KartunesAZ
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drfeelgood View Post
We kept the center channel in my V, removed it in my ZL1. Both are time aligned to me (driver), never ever time aligned a setup for both front seats since I drive alone in my car 90% of the time.

As Jax mentioned, you really want a center channel that can handle a lot of power if you are going to properly set your front stage. I purchased two sets of the Legatia L3Se 3.7" drivers, and am running them in the corners and one in the center. Extra driver kept in storage for backup. I am powering the center channel with an Audison SR2, bridged, putting out about 180watts RMS, the tweeter/mid are running passively crossed over , powered by the Class A channels of the Audison 5.1K AV HD
That’s a badass amp. I installed that same one with a bit one in my friends raptor. 2 way dyne audio in the front running active and a w7 in a custom box. Looking to switch to some JL shallow tw3s.


Last night I got around to installing my VXI and I ended up installing the JL Audio C7 tweet and mid. Tomorrow Ill add the 6.5 in the front doors. But so far. That sound pretty good. Defiantly a different sound from focal.
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Old 01-19-2019, 10:48 AM   #32
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I plan on keeping the Bose amp to supply the center channel. Hopefully this will work instead of using another amplifier. I have run out of channels!!
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Old 01-21-2019, 01:50 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ulisses_KartunesAZ View Post
That’s a badass amp. I installed that same one with a bit one in my friends raptor. 2 way dyne audio in the front running active and a w7 in a custom box. Looking to switch to some JL shallow tw3s.


Last night I got around to installing my VXI and I ended up installing the JL Audio C7 tweet and mid. Tomorrow Ill add the 6.5 in the front doors. But so far. That sound pretty good. Defiantly a different sound from focal.
Nice setup! And yes, that amp is awesome. My first experience with an amp with class A channels. The power and clarity of a class A amp is crazy, but it really comes to life when using high end drivers.
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'14 CTS-V Coupe - ZL1 lid - Ported TB - Ported Snout - AirRad CAI - 8.66" lower - 2.55" upper- Greenbelt - SW Headers - SW Catback - Varimax Intercooler Pump - Track Attack Intercooler-Tuned at BRC Raceworks (551rwhp/516trq)

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Old 01-21-2019, 01:51 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by headgamez View Post
I plan on keeping the Bose amp to supply the center channel. Hopefully this will work instead of using another amplifier. I have run out of channels!!
I always suggest trying it out first. It just may work out. If not, you can always add another amp later.
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'14 CTS-V Coupe - ZL1 lid - Ported TB - Ported Snout - AirRad CAI - 8.66" lower - 2.55" upper- Greenbelt - SW Headers - SW Catback - Varimax Intercooler Pump - Track Attack Intercooler-Tuned at BRC Raceworks (551rwhp/516trq)

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Old 01-31-2019, 11:17 AM   #35
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@jax_chris, so we looked at the rear quarter panels , indeed wewill NOT be able to get those subwoofers in the rear quarter panels. So, we are going to keep the 6.5" coaxials in there for rear fill, and modify the center portion between the two rear "seats" and build a fiberglass onclosure for the subs there, similar to what you see in a lot of convertibles.
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'14 CTS-V Coupe - ZL1 lid - Ported TB - Ported Snout - AirRad CAI - 8.66" lower - 2.55" upper- Greenbelt - SW Headers - SW Catback - Varimax Intercooler Pump - Track Attack Intercooler-Tuned at BRC Raceworks (551rwhp/516trq)

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