Shortblock vs. Engine Rebuild? Help?

[47AJV8]

I've been looking around a fair bit online, I want to make about double stock HP (with a centrifugal supercharger) and was wondering if it would be cheaper to buy a stroker short block than to rebuild my current engine? (6.2 V8) And I'm not super knowledgeable, so I was wondering what else you need when you but a shortblock? If you keep your current engine can you swap a bunch of the components over or...? Really, what is required? Thanks! I know you a lot of you guys have beastly motors so I hope you can help me out!

[ModernMuscle]

It would be cheaper to build off your current block other wise you would be paying extra for all the core charges IE: Block Heads ect....

Yes you can switch all the other components over which ever route you take

[Chris82xx]

I've done some research as well, there are a few aspects that came to light. If you buy a short block, some places do not require a core, so you would have an extra short block which you could keep as a spare or sell to help reduce costs.

[ModernMuscle]

I am sure that the core charge is built into the price of the short block then, nobody gives a block away for free.

[Mchlgrrsn]

if you go the stroker route it will run 10k by the time everything is done. You will get a ton of torque, and peak torque drops down into the useable range (4500rpms). There is a lot of planning that nees to be done, specially when adding a supercharger. Bigger fuel injectors, fuel pump, new cam, the list is pretty long. Then the drive line. Dont make quick decisions. When you add that much power, the power finds your "weak links". Make sure you have time and money, a lot of money. A stroked motor is a ton of fun to drive

[Chris82xx]

Originally Posted by ModernMuscle

I am sure that the core charge is built into the price of the short block then, nobody gives a block away for free.

Without a doubt!! I'm just saying, I've gotten quotes from a few vendor sponsors on here using the exact same parts, and the best deal I've found for a short block is approx. $4,800 and I keep my core. If I return my core I'm only saving about $1K and at that point I could sell it for more. Maybe not by much, but a little more. Not to mention that by the time you calculate shipping charges, you're still spending the same, so might as well keep the core as a spare.

[47AJV8]

Thanks for the input everyone, so it would still be cheaper the have the block machined and buy a full rotating assembly than go with a shortblock?

[Mchlgrrsn]

Originally Posted by Chris82xx

Without a doubt!! I'm just saying, I've gotten quotes from a few vendor sponsors on here using the exact same parts, and the best deal I've found for a short block is approx. $4,800 and I keep my core. If I return my core I'm only saving about $1K and at that point I could sell it for more. Maybe not by much, but a little more. Not to mention that by the time you calculate shipping charges, you're still spending the same, so might as well keep the core as a spare.

Your price sounds like the core charge is built in.

[Chris82xx]

It probably is, the thing that I'm saying is that it may be good to keep the core and sell it. If I sell the core for $1500-$2000 I think that would be less expensive than to buy the parts and pay for machining. To be honest, I'm not entirely certain. I just know that when I was shopping around, it seemed like a good route to go. If you had a better deal, please share. When priced my build, it was for a 416 with diamond pistons, callies rods and crank, assembled. A little more pricey, but with the hp I'm heading towards, the extra may be worth it.

[K32 Camaro]

There is usually an option when picking them out near the bottom or top saying:
No core exchange (+1200)
or
Core exchange

By the way, it depends on how much work you want to put into your block. Such as if you have a shop do an ls3 conversion, Forged pisons n rods, stroker crank, arp bolts, c5r timing chain, melling oil pump, ls7 lifters.. then you might as well just buy a fully built long block b/c the price with labor ends up about the same.. (if you can install the engine yourself.) And a bonus, you have a ls3 sitting in your garage.

[2SS45th]

Not many people have done projects like this (not to offend those of us that have), but you will get some answers from people with zero experience. The ONLY reason I went with a new block is because I was shooting for 1000rwhp and I am gonna beat on it. If you only want to make 800-900whp then use the stock block. There isn't a real reason to throw money at something that doesn't need to be changed. Secondly, your LS3 block is not worth 1k when you can buy it new for $1600, and you aren't getting the block free when there isn't a core charge. There will be a ton of little things to add to a shortblock as well, it isn't as simple as it may sound. Put in the time and do some serious research, it will save you time, money, and effort. In my opinion, you will spend more on the short block, the only down side is the added time investment of rebuilding the stock motor. I'd rebuild the stocker, you aren't getting any stronger of a motor anyways.

Your motor is the tip of the iceberg for the whole car, like stated above, you will replace weak link after weak link. Have you figured in the cost of the supporting stuff too? Drivetrain and suspension can cost just as much as the motor. So, price out what you think you want to spend; DOUBLE it. Then add in another 1k for the incidentals, because you always need another little something. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you want. Last thing, these things take a long time so don't rush into it.

[UNRIVALED SS]

2SS45th has pretty much told it as accurately as possible. Personally I have the ability to do a project like the one you mention but it gave me peace of mind to go with a professional shop that I knew would put a package together that met my expectations. So what I did is get several estimates and then factor in location and perceived quality and value for what I was getting and made a decision. Is addition to what has been said, do it right the first time or you'll just pay twice.
I went with building my current engine using my block which was fully prepped of course. Which ever route you decide just ensure you have factored everything in so you don't get surprised after you've committed to the project.

[Mchlgrrsn]

Originally Posted by Chris82xx

It probably is, the thing that I'm saying is that it may be good to keep the core and sell it. If I sell the core for $1500-$2000 I think that would be less expensive than to buy the parts and pay for machining. To be honest, I'm not entirely certain. I just know that when I was shopping around, it seemed like a good route to go. If you had a better deal, please share. When priced my build, it was for a 416 with diamond pistons, callies rods and crank, assembled. A little more pricey, but with the hp I'm heading towards, the extra may be worth it.

i paid 10k heres what i got .. labor and a loaner car ... blower cam ... nice timing set ... better lifters ... better oil pump ... dual fuel pump .. everything assembled and blueprinted ... shipping and back into my car ... my tuner hit me up for some pullies ... 10k in the blink of an eye. Because you add that much power and torque, you have "issues" with clutch (non debatable) tranny (highly debatable) and rear end (axles non debatable) (differential debatable). Rebuild a tranny with stronger parts is 2k a dss rear is 5k clutch is 1k (or more). Thats pretty much what it costs. If you add a lot of power (no matter how you do it) the other "issues" pop up.

as far as time goes ... been working on this since august and its still not done

dollar amounts are "rough numbers" not to the penny numbers.

the nice thing about a strocker is not the HP ... its the torque, and peak torque being dropped down from the 6000rpm range down into the 4000 RPM range ... on the street it becomes a very fun car to drive

[SSE 4 2SS]

Several people in here have given good advice...

It will cost substantially more than you expect, the supporting mods are what eat you up...

It will take longer than you expect... Yes I've driven my car some during the process, but i'm two years into this project in Feb.

My suggestion is to find a builder you trust, and sit down and plan the whole thing out from start to finish. This will give you a better estimate than just say, "I want to forge it and add a blower..."

Also consider that you may want more down the road... It is an addiction... Ask me how I know... and will what you are doing today support what you may want tomorrow...

There were some comments about debatable items.... I can almost guarantee as you progress through this, you will find the weakest link at every point... I went to the Texas Mile with 1370 RWHP, and found the weak link... In this case it was my heads...

Not too expensive, until... you factor in, R&R the motor, ship it back to Indiana, have them do the repairs to the block, hone it 5 thousandths, throw a new set of pistons in it, ship it back etc...... My motor left my car at the first part of Nov, and it still isn't back... and I'm down to 48 days left to the next running of the Texas mile...

We need the motor, build it up, install it, install all the supporting items, turbo's, boost piping, etc... break it in, and then tune it... and we still do not have a delivery date...

People told me as I started this that I needed to be patient... OMG did they know what they were talking about...

Me... and cost...

3rd motor, Factory, Forged Short block, and then the rebuilt forged shortblock,

5th Trans, added improved parts until we decided to scrap the factory trans and paid three times what a factory trans cost but it works...

3rd Clutch... factory, twin disc that sucked, and now a triple disc carbon clutch that works...

3rd driveshaft, factory, aftermarket, and then a new one for the modified high dollar trans...

3rd shifter, factory, MGW and then the new one with the high dollar aftermarket trans,

2nd diff, factory, and the DSS nine inch,

Third set of axles.. factory, DSS to go with the factory diff, and then a set for the nine inch...

Numerous suspension components, to support and put the power down... etc...etc...etc...

Everything was adequate along the way for what I had, but it kept snowballing... Like before... It's addictive....