[GirlyNFG]

I put about 12000 miles and a LOT of passes on my car.
It dynoed at 806. Ive replaced it with a new style DYAD (i forget what they called it) and it is working well.

[RobbyRocketz]

Hows it feel when compared too the O.E.M clutch as far as pedal feel, shifting action, and engagement. is it grabby?

[Getinthur]

Originally Posted by exxit

ZL1 clutch will not slip on 600hp bruv. He said he is 600hp and doesn't plan on going any wilder.

No one needs to drop a grand on a clutch if there is a 300 dollar version that is factory rated to hold that type of power.

If you going through the trouble of installing a clutch (7 hours +), spend that little bit of extra money for a nice one. The ZL1 will handle the power but it wont handle the aggressive driving. I replaced my ZL1 clutch at 5k miles with a ACT Twin Disc, when we pulled the OEM one out it looked like it came from a 92 Honda civic it was so beat up.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by exxit

ZL1 clutch will not slip on 600hp bruv. He said he is 600hp and doesn't plan on going any wilder.

No one needs to drop a grand on a clutch if there is a 300 dollar version that is factory rated to hold that type of power.

The Ignorance runs strong on this forum...carry on.

[ZNix]

I would try to get as much weight out of the clutch as I could. The stock clutch is insanely heavy.

My .02

[exxit]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

The Ignorance runs strong on this forum...carry on.

Educate where there is ignorance instead of wasting your time to drop a one liner that helps no one but your ego.

As far as weight goes, however, that makes perfect sense too.

If it wasn't absolutely obvious what the logic there was; for some the 700 dollar price difference is enough to make or break the decision. I'm not saying I would skimp out on a clutch, I'm already past where this would be a viable option, I'm saying someone who has no plans to go above 600hp could use a zl1 clutch without it failing on him. I'll wait to hear where I'm wrong, or the next clever one liner. Whatever you can spare.

[ZNix]

Originally Posted by exxit

Educate where there is ignorance instead of wasting your time to drop a one liner that helps no one but your ego.

As far as weight goes, however, that makes perfect sense too.

If it wasn't absolutely obvious what the logic there was; for some the 700 dollar price difference is enough to make or break the decision. I'm not saying I would skimp out on a clutch, I'm already past where this would be a viable option, I'm saying someone who has no plans to go above 600hp could use a zl1 clutch without it failing on him. I'll wait to hear where I'm wrong, or the next clever one liner. Whatever you can spare.

This is what I would do, in your case. Google RPS clutch and look for the company that sells the GM versions. I do not think I can post this due to sponsor rules and whatnot. The initials are CC. Call them. Do your research on the RPS Billet Carbon Twin. This will support up to 800wtq.

The price will make you squirm. But lets put it into perspective. You might already have 8 or 9 thousand into your build. You might have more, I do not know. Its a worth while investment if you really want to race and enjoy the car.

The benefits:

You have two flywheel options and two hydraulic options.

You can use a steel flywheel in the ~35lb range, or the aluminum in the ~25lb range. Your stock clutch + flywheel is somewhere around 65lbs. You will be dropping an enormous amount of weight off your crankshaft with either choice. That leads to more acceleration. Now a clutch mod is not just for holding power, but making the car faster! Aluminum will be lighter and more rev happy, but may be more of a challenge to drive. The steel will be easier to drive, but won't be as rev happy.

You have stock hydraulics, or a Tilton Adjustable HRB setup. The tilton is going to have shorter travel and probably a nicer overall unit. The stock will have closer to stock drive-ability, but longer travel. Shorter travel will be faster on shifts, longer might be a little easier to drive. You can probably get used to both relatively quick.

Now just imagine how your shifts will feel after dropping all that stupid weight off the crank and trans. Smoother, easier. Better high RPM shifts as well when the inevitable cam goes in. Its an all around great upgrade.

Now, you do not HAVE to buy the one I mentioned above. It just happens to be a fantastic unit. But any clutch that can save you 30 or more pounds, will be awesome. Other high end units will be nice. But I do not think (as of right now) there is any other brand / unit that can be as light as the RPS Billet Carbon Twin.

If you don't think you want to go as light as aluminum, or as heavy as the steel flywheel, a certain Cylinder Head guru offers a ported steel flywheel for the RPS clutches that lands somewhere in the middle of the 25 and 35lbs.

I don't have any skin in the game, if you buy one of these clutches or not idc. But spend your money wisely. Putting another junk 65+ pound clutch in your car because its cheap and will just kinda work, isn't the best way to go about things.

HTH

[exxit]

Originally Posted by ZNix

This is what I would do, in your case. Google RPS clutch and look for the company that sells the GM versions. I do not think I can post this due to sponsor rules and whatnot. The initials are CC. Call them. Do your research on the RPS Billet Carbon Twin. This will support up to 800wtq.

The price will make you squirm. But lets put it into perspective. You might already have 8 or 9 thousand into your build. You might have more, I do not know. Its a worth while investment if you really want to race and enjoy the car.

The benefits:

You have two flywheel options and two hydraulic options.

You can use a steel flywheel in the ~35lb range, or the aluminum in the ~25lb range. Your stock clutch + flywheel is somewhere around 65lbs. You will be dropping an enormous amount of weight off your crankshaft with either choice. That leads to more acceleration. Now a clutch mod is not just for holding power, but making the car faster! Aluminum will be lighter and more rev happy, but may be more of a challenge to drive. The steel will be easier to drive, but won't be as rev happy.

You have stock hydraulics, or a Tilton Adjustable HRB setup. The tilton is going to have shorter travel and probably a nicer overall unit. The stock will have closer to stock drive-ability, but longer travel. Shorter travel will be faster on shifts, longer might be a little easier to drive. You can probably get used to both relatively quick.

Now just imagine how your shifts will feel after dropping all that stupid weight off the crank and trans. Smoother, easier. Better high RPM shifts as well when the inevitable cam goes in. Its an all around great upgrade.

Now, you do not HAVE to buy the one I mentioned above. It just happens to be a fantastic unit. But any clutch that can save you 30 or more pounds, will be awesome. Other high end units will be nice. But I do not think (as of right now) there is any other brand / unit that can be as light as the RPS Billet Carbon Twin.

If you don't think you want to go as light as aluminum, or as heavy as the steel flywheel, a certain Cylinder Head guru offers a ported steel flywheel for the RPS clutches that lands somewhere in the middle of the 25 and 35lbs.

I don't have any skin in the game, if you buy one of these clutches or not idc. But spend your money wisely. Putting another junk 65+ pound clutch in your car because its cheap and will just kinda work, isn't the best way to go about things.

HTH

Thanks for all that info! I learned a few things, and if I were to spend my cash, I would definitely look into other options before cheaping out on stock. With great power comes great responsibility lol.

By "just kinda work" you mean; not provide the added benefit while still costing you the same amount of time in labor, correct? Because the ZL1 clutch will definitely, fully, work. Which was the premise of my initial statement or re-statement of what I said earlier. If your argument is that the better designed product is better, I can't and won't argue with that haha. Makes perfect logical sense.


I simply stated the painfully obvious point, that someone strapped for cash in a, lets say 1SS, and isn't going to be able to drop an extra 700 dollars on a clutch because it is better; A ZL1 clutch which fits and is superior (one would think) to the OEM clutch in an SS, is an option. Calling me ignorant for that (which I know you specifically didn't even hint towards it) is idiotic imo.

[ZNix]

Originally Posted by exxit

I simply stated the painfully obvious point, that someone strapped for cash in a, lets say 1SS, and isn't going to be able to drop an extra 700 dollars on a clutch because it is better; A ZL1 clutch which fits and is superior (one would think) to the OEM clutch in an SS, is an option. Calling me ignorant for that (which I know you specifically didn't even hint towards it) is idiotic imo.

Will it work? Yes. It will do the job.

If you are modding one of these cars, you really shouldn't be strapped for cash in the first place. Especially at the 700+ wtq range. Not trying to be a dick here, but it would sound like someone is working a little too tight on budget in that case.

My bolt on 1SS will be getting one of these clutches in the near future. 25lb unit with the tilton HRB.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by exxit

Educate where there is ignorance instead of wasting your time to drop a one liner that helps no one but your ego.

As far as weight goes, however, that makes perfect sense too.

If it wasn't absolutely obvious what the logic there was; for some the 700 dollar price difference is enough to make or break the decision. I'm not saying I would skimp out on a clutch, I'm already past where this would be a viable option, I'm saying someone who has no plans to go above 600hp could use a zl1 clutch without it failing on him. I'll wait to hear where I'm wrong, or the next clever one liner. Whatever you can spare.

I gave a respectful answer in my first post before you tried to tell me otherwise...Guys with Zl1's are trashing the clutch with stock power and aggressive driving. Either way, The clutch is the last place to go cheap..a Zl1 owner confirmed the same.

Your strapped for cash logic makes no sense here. Who in the right mind spends the kind the kind of money it takes to get one of these cars to 6-700whp all to go cheap on a clutch because they are strapped for cash? That makes no sense at all.

[exxit]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I gave a respectful answer in my first post before you tried to tell me otherwise...Guys with Zl1's are trashing the clutch with stock power and aggressive driving. Either way, The clutch is the last place to go cheap..a Zl1 owner confirmed the same.

Your strapped for cash logic makes no sense here. Who in the right mind spends the kind the kind of money it takes to get one of these cars to 6-700whp all to go cheap on a clutch because they are strapped for cash? That makes no sense at all.

Financially irresponsible people, lol.


I disagreed and gave the reason why I disagreed... If that triggers your one liner ego trip post, cool.

Hadn't heard of people complaining about that clutch at stock power and hard driving, maybe launching hard is what makes the difference?

I'm still waiting for my clutch to slip or die. Stock SS clutch, 630whp, 29k miles and still kicking without a hiccup. Granted I don't beat the snot out of the car off the line (not that I could with the throttle body bog) After that I'm eyeing either a centerforce or the RPS suggested above.... Hopefully I get rid of this thing before then.

[DatBrotato]

I've always been a fan of using a clutch that can barely hold the power, with minimal slip. If you get a fancy twin-disk & sticky tires your weak point just became the rear-end.
I'd much rather eat through a LT1/LT4 clutch every 2-3 years than a diff.

[DFW1LE]

Originally Posted by DatBrotato

I've always been a fan of using a clutch that can barely hold the power, with minimal slip. If you get a fancy twin-disk & sticky tires your weak point just became the rear-end.
I'd much rather eat through a LT1/LT4 clutch every 2-3 years than a diff.

Trying to launch these M6 cars with sticky tires will also mean replacing the DS and axles at some point.

[LesBaer]

I'm going with the ZL1 clutch this winter. I've got 21k miles and actually learned to drive to stick on this car (took a lesson on another car first). I launched the car a lot last year but got bored, changed tires from DR's to R888R's and haven't launched at all this year. It's only slipped a few times in 2nd so far, so I'll make it through the year. What I've heard is that the aftermarket parts in this area aren't perfect and the ZL1 clutch is over-engineered and therefore has worked great in high HP applications. IMO this is a maintenance thing, so go GM...wash, rinse, repeat.