Tilton clutch

[cdb95z28]

OK fellas, here's some pics......










I talked to a guy at Tilton before I pulled the trigger. He said they put an ST246 in a Gen6 SS 1LE and they all took turns beating on it. It took all of their abuse. EDIT: I actually weighed my OE LS3 clutch at 58.4lbs and my Tilton at 46.8. That was the flywheel, pressure plate, disc, and flywheel and pressure plate bolts.
That is an 11.6lb difference.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by bottletalk

what route of engagement are you guys going? sticking with the traditional slave cylinder or hydraulic throw out bearing?
This winter I’m doing as much as I can on underneath upgrades. So far I’m holding a monster lt1-sc clutch, full bmr pro street bushings with trailing arms, lower control and toes. Waiting for a bmr sway bar set that I ordered 3/4 months ago....called them the other day...umm, no comment. Also picked up a stainless works 3” retro cat back with dual tips and performance connections.
Trying to either pick up a zl1 diff(373) with axles or beefing up my stock diff with a 3.73 truetrac and an undecided cover.
Also going with some cheap coil overs, BC racing or pedders..

Anybody using a tilton hyd throw out bearing or any other hyd throw out?
I’d love to get this figured out before Boxing Day

The kit comes with a Tilton throw out bearing. I bought a new GM OE clutch master for a all new setup. I think I'll be able to add my Tick remote bleeder line to this Tilton setup.

BTW, cheap coilovers will give you cheap results. And it will handle like crap. The magic is in the dampening. Spend a little more and get RideTechs, they are excellent quality, and a lifetime warranty. Pedders ort BC can't match all that and IIRC, they are way oversprung.

[SIM GhostrdrZ]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

The kit comes with a Tilton throw out bearing. I bought a new GM OE clutch master for a all new setup. I think I'll be able to add my Tick remote bleeder line to this Tilton setup.

BTW, cheap coilovers will give you cheap results. And it will handle like crap. The magic is in the dampening. Spend a little more and get RideTechs, they are excellent quality, and a lifetime warranty. Pedders ort BC can't match all that and IIRC, they are way oversprung.

Thanks for the clutch info and thanks for the weight info on it. Very nice of you to take the time to share.
I have a ride tech question since you mentioned ridetech coilovers. Have you used or know of anyone that does use the ridetech rear suspension arms. I really like their adjustability and lightweight design. I had the BMR adjustable arms including lca on my V6 and it easy to align, held the alignment. My concern is there isn’t a lot of folks using the ridetech arms so it’s either the price or there’s issues with them. I’d have to add the suspension position sensor mount to the lca since they don’t offer them for the FEA suspensions.
Any experience or thoughts is greatly appreciated.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by SIM GhostrdrZ

Thanks for the clutch info and thanks for the weight info on it. Very nice of you to take the time to share.
I have a ride tech question since you mentioned ridetech coilovers. Have you used or know of anyone that does use the ridetech rear suspension arms. I really like their adjustability and lightweight design. I had the BMR adjustable arms including lca on my V6 and it easy to align, held the alignment. My concern is there isn’t a lot of folks using the ridetech arms so it’s either the price or there’s issues with them. I’d have to add the suspension position sensor mount to the lca since they don’t offer them for the FEA suspensions.
Any experience or thoughts is greatly appreciated.

I have seen the RideTech kit but do not know of anyone who has them. I think the price is going to push alot of people away. I have no doubt the RideTech stuff is high quality, and as you mentioned, lightweight! To compare with other high quality components, like buying the Detroit Speed (DSE) toe rods (which I have), a quality set of trailing arms like the UMI trailing arms with the Rotor-Joint (which I have) and replacing the OE lower control arm (LCA) with the DSE ones will only cost about $1175.

Realistically, the OE Z/28 toe rods, which are the same on the 1LE's, are excellent. They have a durable rose joint with excellent articulation and no bind. IMO, adding more poly anywhere at the rear where there already is alot of articulation, is a step back. I moved onto the DSE toe rods because I thought they would be easier to adjust the toe than the OE eccentric. And, they do have a similar type of rose joint, so really, they are just a little bit better when we consider we can remove the eccentric and help keep the toe where we want.

On the trailing arms, I moved to the Roto-Joint UMI's, so there is more articulation and less bind than with the OE arm, which is the same between the Z/28 and the 1LE. Now, whether more articulation/less bind is needed there is debatable. Realistically, I had a few bucks to burn on my car and I chose the trailing arms to do so. The Roto-Joint has not made any noise on my car.

I still have the OE LCA, which is also the same on the Z and the 1LE. I've contemplated getting the DSE LCA, but at $575, I'm not sure it's worth it. And I suspect they are a lot heavier than the OE ones. The weak link on the OE LCA is probably the one bushing. Sticky Motorsports used to have a Delrin replacement, which would allow bind free movement. I've moved the LCA by itself while bolted to the cradle, but not the knuckle, and no spring/damper attached, and it does have some resistance (as it is engineered to have), it was not much, so I think it's not a big deal. It is just part of the engineered in roll resistance. The rear suspension on our Gen5's do a better job than the Gen6's at holding alignment specs, and it can, with the right alignment, help the rear tires wear evenly with road course use. I've never had my toe or camber move at the rear, and I run the curbs hard at my track.

I edited the weights on the clutches on the previous post. That previous info was what I found on the interwebs, but I got to weigh my actual components today.

[saluki]

Isn't this the same clutch that lazermonta used on his 5th gen before he got the corvette?

[SIM GhostrdrZ]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

I have seen the RideTech kit but do not know of anyone who has them. I think the price is going to push alot of people away. I have no doubt the RideTech stuff is high quality, and as you mentioned, lightweight! To compare with other high quality components, like buying the Detroit Speed (DSE) toe rods (which I have), a quality set of trailing arms like the UMI trailing arms with the Rotor-Joint (which I have) and replacing the OE lower control arm (LCA) with the DSE ones will only cost about $1175.

Realistically, the OE Z/28 toe rods, which are the same on the 1LE's, are excellent. They have a durable rose joint with excellent articulation and no bind. IMO, adding more poly anywhere at the rear where there already is alot of articulation, is a step back. I moved onto the DSE toe rods because I thought they would be easier to adjust the toe than the OE eccentric. And, they do have a similar type of rose joint, so really, they are just a little bit better when we consider we can remove the eccentric and help keep the toe where we want.

On the trailing arms, I moved to the Roto-Joint UMI's, so there is more articulation and less bind than with the OE arm, which is the same between the Z/28 and the 1LE. Now, whether more articulation/less bind is needed there is debatable. Realistically, I had a few bucks to burn on my car and I chose the trailing arms to do so. The Roto-Joint has not made any noise on my car.

I still have the OE LCA, which is also the same on the Z and the 1LE. I've contemplated getting the DSE LCA, but at $575, I'm not sure it's worth it. And I suspect they are a lot heavier than the OE ones. The weak link on the OE LCA is probably the one bushing. Sticky Motorsports used to have a Delrin replacement, which would allow bind free movement. I've moved the LCA by itself while bolted to the cradle, but not the knuckle, and no spring/damper attached, and it does have some resistance (as it is engineered to have), it was not much, so I think it's not a big deal. It is just part of the engineered in roll resistance. The rear suspension on our Gen5's do a better job than the Gen6's at holding alignment specs, and it can, with the right alignment, help the rear tires wear evenly with road course use. I've never had my toe or camber move at the rear, and I run the curbs hard at my track.

I edited the weights on the clutches on the previous post. That previous info was what I found on the interwebs, but I got to weigh my actual components today.

You nailed where my thoughts were. I appreciate your knowledge and sharing it.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by SIM GhostrdrZ

You nailed where my thoughts were. I appreciate your knowledge and sharing it.

You're Welcome, Do you run your Z/28 on the road course? I see you are in Ohio, I run at Pitt Race, near the PA/Oh border.

[SIM GhostrdrZ]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

You're Welcome, Do you run your Z/28 on the road course? I see you are in Ohio, I run at Pitt Race, near the PA/Oh border.

Someday I may get to one of 3, Pitt, Nelson ledges or mid Ohio just for a fun run.
It’s what our cars were built for.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by SIM GhostrdrZ

Someday I may get to one of 3, Pitt, Nelson ledges or mid Ohio just for a fun run.
It’s what our cars were built for.

It's a blast.
I'd love to see a SIM Z/28 in person. If I was to buy a Z, it would be in SIM. I really love my 1LE and it's sorted out. It also wears the scars of 5 years of track use. But I'm always thinking of getting a Gen6. I'd hate to do that to another hot rod. Lately I've been thinking of getting a second Camaro, either a Z/28 or a Gen6 SS 1LE for just the street. Then I could have no compromises on my 1LE.

[Scotty D]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

The kit comes with a Tilton throw out bearing. I bought a new GM OE clutch master for a all new setup. I think I'll be able to add my Tick remote bleeder line to this Tilton setup.

BTW, cheap coilovers will give you cheap results. And it will handle like crap. The magic is in the dampening. Spend a little more and get RideTechs, they are excellent quality, and a lifetime warranty. Pedders ort BC can't match all that and IIRC, they are way oversprung.

Did you install this yet and if so how does it feel?

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Scotty D

Did you install this yet and if so how does it feel?

I have the clutch installed but waiting on my trans from Bowler. It's going to be a couple months till I can I drive it, hopefully winter will be done by then.

[Scotty D]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

I have the clutch installed but waiting on my trans from Bowler. It's going to be a couple months till I can I drive it, hopefully winter will be done by then.

Ahhh ok we’ll definitely keep us posted thanks !!
Really interested to see how you like it !
Looking at either this one or the Monster triple organic

[xc_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by saluki

Isn't this the same clutch that lazermonta used on his 5th gen before he got the corvette?

Nope I think he had a 5.5" Tilton twin or triple on his 5th gen

[Sharp406]

Any update on the clutch?!