[bignaz]

Mmmhmmmm. Remember OP. People online most of the time have no idea what they are talking about. I work for a large aerospace company here in Marietta Georgia. Unlike most people I know about materials because I look at the properties. 3d printed ABS is nothing like injection molded ABS. Anyone who tells you this has no clue.

Here is a picture of some PETG. "Abs does the same thing". This was easily done when the part was exposed to very low heat. Lower then what you would see under the hood. Done on a Stratasys 450MC. It's around a $250,000 set up.


Abs has a glass transition temp of 105c or 221f. At that point it becomes soft. Due to the fact fdm printers only do a light surface bond not a sold bond like a part that is done with injection molding at that point when it hits the glass transition temp and becomes soft the layers do fail there is no way around this with fmd. The picture shows this. Keep in mind that pic is PETG with a glass transition temp of 88c. But that part was exposed to temps of 150f and the layers failed. I done this with abs and the results were the same and we decided against using that process for an application that would have the part exposed to temps of 150f.


People can say whatever they want. Facts are facts. Most people don't even know what glass transition is lol. You can't compare injection molding to fdm printing. A solid part vs a part that's composed of layers.


Then again if I was going to use a fdm printer to make a part for an engine bay. I would use PPSF or Polyphenylsulfone if you will. Glass transition of 288c head deflection of 275c. But then again. I kinda know what I'm talking about and guys with there fdm printers don't even know what that is lol.

[trublucamaro]

Originally Posted by bignaz

Mmmhmmmm. Remember OP. People online most of the time have no idea what they are talking about. I work for a large aerospace company here in Marietta Georgia. Unlike most people I know about materials because I look at the properties. 3d printed ABS is nothing like injection molded ABS. Anyone who tells you this has no clue.

Here is a picture of some PETG. "Abs does the same thing". This was easily done when the part was exposed to very low heat. Lower then what you would see under the hood. Done on a Stratasys 450MC. It's around a $250,000 set up.


Abs has a glass transition temp of 105c or 221f. At that point it becomes soft. Due to the fact fdm printers only do a light surface bond not a sold bond like a part that is done with injection molding at that point when it hits the glass transition temp and becomes soft the layers do fail there is no way around this with fmd. The picture shows this. Keep in mind that pic is PETG with a glass transition temp of 88c. But that part was exposed to temps of 150f and the layers failed. I done this with abs and the results were the same and we decided against using that process for an application that would have the part exposed to temps of 150f.


People can say whatever they want. Facts are facts. Most people don't even know what glass transition is lol. You can't compare injection molding to fdm printing. A solid part vs a part that's composed of layers.


Then again if I was going to use a fdm printer to make a part for an engine bay. I would use PPSF or Polyphenylsulfone if you will. Glass transition of 288c head deflection of 275c. But then again. I kinda know what I'm talking about and guys with there fdm printers don't even know what that is lol.

Okay, well, as long as we aren't wagging male anatomy around this thread. I simply wanted to know what people thought... how hard it would be to do, etc...

I just ordered a cover for my needs along with some other things, but the question is still out there, as I think a custom piece market for certain things is out there and I haven't come across someone who will or has done it.

[DIYguy]

3d printed ABS is nothing like injection molded ABS.

I never said it was if that was directed at me.
I do know the difference between them and know quite well what glass transition temperature is.

I actually don't think that printing the entire cover is a good idea to start with if that did not come through clearly enough before (there are other ways to customize one).

However the simple fact remains that I have not had any parts I have printed (or had printed) from ABS fail underhood, perhaps a hundred in total.
After well over 750 downloads of underhood parts I have designed and posted for Camaros and other vehicles I have not received even one complaint or comment regarding delamination or deformation.
This includes members of this very forum who have made and use them.

BTW, I typically vapor polish my ABS parts and I have found this helps layer adhesion, as does the type of internal fill pattern and nozzle temperature.
And I do not often design parts that will be used in tension, but when I do I am very careful of the layer directions when printing them.
That is similar in concept to structural woodworking. Grain direction matters.

Lighten up, don't stress.
Let's enjoy these great cars and promote an open exchange of ideas and information.