LH Exhaust colder than RH Side - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

'10CamaroDude · 05-16-2020, 12:27 AM

I ran the car 400 miles, the muffler and tailpipe on the RH side are hot
to the touch. I can put the palm of my hand on the LH muffler, and
it's barely warm, same with the tailpipe.

We have a thermal imager, like how "The Predator" sees in Infrared.
There was more than a 30 degree difference at the mufflers. There
was 100+ degrees difference at the secondary cats.

I thought maybe the secondary cat was clogged, because it was
partially crushed, and was like that when I picked the car up on
Feb 1st. SO, I cut it out. Well, turns out, was just the opposite,
there was no cat material in the LH side secondary cat. These were
supposed to be new cats put on in January. Along with O2 sensors, and
well, the LH one has holes drilled in the tip of it, and P0430 code from
the LH side since I bought it. Was both side (P0420), and that was
cleared up with the supposedly new cats and spacers on the O2.

That was alarming, because at least if it were clogged, the low flow might
have been causing the P0430, SO, a straight pipe would not help now,
even three spacers deep...

So, I cut the RH side out, and was normal, cat material through and
through, no cracks or pieces missing.

I welded in straight pipe to replace the secondary cats, and the TEMPs
are still much hotter on the passenger side. Not knowing how the baffles
are on the mufflers, but maybe cat material all blew out, and is clogging
the muffler? I do get flow on both sides, just that LH side being barely
warm -vs- Hot.

All new plugs too, and the car runs good...

Would retarded exhaust cam timing effect the temps?
What else is left? Has anyone else checked their exhaust
temps, and it's the same?

'10CamaroDude · 05-17-2020, 12:23 AM

Looked at some "inside" pictures of the mufflers, if it was clogged, it would be
really clogged. The passenger side pipe, has a crush spot in it for clearance
for the driveshaft mount. So, that's maybe why it runs hotter on that side.

alice · 05-17-2020, 06:18 AM

I have a 2010 Camaro with a 2014 LFX engine and rear mount twin turbochargers. No mufflers. I have left and right wide band AFR's & EGT probes at each outlet of the cylinder heads and they are located in the exact same position. As you have indicated, the drivers bank runs 150-200 degrees hotter than the passenger bank. The wide bands indicated exact fuel ratios on both banks. I cannot explain the difference in EGT readings when the AFR readings are the same. Makes no sense to me and have been like this since the installation of a brand new LFX engine.

I, too, am perplexed by this and would also like to have an explanation as to why this happens. When the AFR readings are the same, it would seem to me that the EGT readings would also be very, very close. Just does not make any sense.

'10CamaroDude · 05-18-2020, 03:17 AM

Mine is running hotter exhaust on the passenger side.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Me

ran the car 400 miles, the muffler and tailpipe on the RH side are hot
to the touch. I can put the palm of my hand on the LH muffler, and
it's barely warm, same with the tailpipe.

We have a thermal imager, like how "The Predator" sees in Infrared.
There was more than a 30 degree difference at the mufflers. There
was 100+ degrees difference at the secondary cats.

I ran it 376 miles today, and the first two stops, at 48 miles, then at ~157, I touched
the tails and mufflers and they were about the same, warm, but not skin burning
hot. Later, on the way back to PGH, two stops, the right was hotter than the left.
Then checked again when I got home, hotter right.

There is a clearance crush in the exhaust on the passenger side, to clear the
driveshaft bracket. Maybe it's a flow issue, slower flow, so the gasses are in
the pipe longer. Each side also has a crushed flat spot in the exhaust
right in between the first and second bends in the exhaust, after the downpipes.
So, those are even. There is another one, as I said, it's just before the right
side resonator.

alice · 05-18-2020, 06:16 AM

Honestly, I wouldn't worry about it. As long as A/F ratios are in specification, that should be the gold standard of engine operation and performance. There are too many variables when trying to compare left and right EGT's. This would be my opinion. My EGT's are perfect, so I disregard the left and right EGT discrepancy.

'10CamaroDude · 05-18-2020, 04:03 PM

I am just hoping I do not have a chain issue on bank 2 causing retarded exhaust timing.
That will never allow the P0430 to clear unless I use a simulator. I have a junk
O2 sensor LH side, downstream, and have two OEM ones coming, so I can put it
in, and see what happens. The RH side is fine, with the spacers, that got rid of
the P0420 code, and is an OE sensor. The LH side is not OE, the wire is way too long,
wrapped and zip-tied. Someone also drilled two holes in the tip of the sensor, but it's
supposed to be new... I am three spacers deep on the LH side, it should not be
seeing too much oxygen, but it's not an OE sensor. Two spacers on the RH side, it's
fine. I also got a low voltage code, and a heater code on the LH side.

P0161 was the latest.

I got a P2099 when in sport mode, 5th, lugging up a hill with my foot to the floor,
that was before the second cats were cut out.

'10CamaroDude · 05-19-2020, 05:03 PM

Replaced the crap sensor with an OEM sensor, will run the 376 miles tonight
and see what's up. Left side tail and muffler was actually cold yesterday after
running it all night. IF all fails, will try signal jumping... Then tune them out, if
it will pass emissions.

'10CamaroDude · 05-20-2020, 05:57 AM

Still got the P0430 code, with a real spacer, and not two anti-foulers.
I have done everything to try and fix this, and have till the end if June
before emissions is up.

'10CamaroDude · 05-20-2020, 02:43 PM

P0420 returned with a factory sensor in the driver side...

DSX_Camaro · 05-20-2020, 04:58 PM

Have you taken the downpipes off the car and checked the primary cats? 420 and 430 are primary cat low efficiency codes and you already know one of the secondary cats had no material in it so you know they haven't been replaced.

'10CamaroDude · 05-20-2020, 05:31 PM

They were replaced, they're not the factory down-pipes. They're hi-flow cats,
they said. They knew what they put on were not factory. They had the cat
codes from the beginning. They were able to get P0420 to go away with spacers.
There is a factory sensor in the passenger side, and a junk Bosch sensor in the
driver side, for the continued P0430 code. So, I bought two factory sensors from
a 40,000 mile car, that WAS working just fine. I put a factory sensor back in the
driver side, P0430 remained, there was no P0420. I ran it last night, and both
P0420 and P0430 were stored when I checked today. There was no P0420 when
I got it back, and all I did was change the driver side sensor, and now P0420 returned.
I have been chasing this down for 3 months, one week at a time, due to my work
schedule.

When we took the secondary cats off, there was material in both Primary cats.
Only ONE secondary cat had no material. Could it have gotten blown into the
exhaust, and it's partially clogging the passenger side?

I will be having the data looked at tomorrow or Friday, to see what the sensors
are doing.

I also pulled #5 and #20 fuse to reset the ECU Keep Alive Memory. Made a huge difference
on how the car runs. I changed the plugs, and VVT Solenoids, and it ran like crap.
It still back-pops cold, and was not doing that before the plug change. However,
the P0430 was always there, even with the plugs that were in it. It didn't start
back-popping till I changed the Bank 2 exhaust cam VVT solenoid. I put the
factory one back in, and it still does it.

Now, when at hard acceleration, I am getting a real fast sounding "whawhawhawhawhawha"
oscillation in the driver side exhaust, that was NOT there before pulling ECU power, and it pulls much
better than it did prior.

dookie454 · 05-21-2020, 11:51 AM

regarding the difference in temperature but "identical" AFR readings.. keep in mind the AFR readings are an average of the 4 cylinders.

One or two could be rich, the other two could be lean, and the rich cylinders could be cooling the exhaust air.

The opposite bank's cylinders could be closer together in individual AFR, making for a hotter exhaust temp.

'10CamaroDude · 05-21-2020, 06:07 PM

Finally got it sorted out, and NO CODES. I had to go farther out of the
exhaust stream on the driver side. So, I have a stainless spacer that is
the length of two anti-foulers, and then put one anti-fouler in front of
that. Passed PA Emissions earlier this afternoon.

It had to be an OE sensor, as I had it out that far with the one those
idiots used.

SPACERS:

DIDN'T WORK:

Passenger side has been fine, so just the driver side was the issue.

DRIVER SIDE 2NDary CAT:

EMPTY!

PASSENGER SIDE:

In tact!

This was how it was returned to me:

They damaged it after installing the down-pipes, somehow. So, either
they gutted it, or it all shot out the exhaust, or some is stuck in the
muffler.

Anyhow, I have another year on the clock before next emissions and inspection.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dookie454

regarding the difference in temperature but "identical" AFR readings.. keep in mind the AFR readings are an average of the 4 cylinders.

One or two could be rich, the other two could be lean, and the rich cylinders could be cooling the exhaust air.

The opposite bank's cylinders could be closer together in individual AFR, making for a hotter exhaust temp.

LLT V6...

05-16-2020, 12:27 AM	#1
'10CamaroDude Account Suspended Drives: 2010 Camaro LS Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Pgh Posts: 739 View My Garage	LH Exhaust colder than RH Side I ran the car 400 miles, the muffler and tailpipe on the RH side are hot to the touch. I can put the palm of my hand on the LH muffler, and it's barely warm, same with the tailpipe. We have a thermal imager, like how "The Predator" sees in Infrared. There was more than a 30 degree difference at the mufflers. There was 100+ degrees difference at the secondary cats. I thought maybe the secondary cat was clogged, because it was partially crushed, and was like that when I picked the car up on Feb 1st. SO, I cut it out. Well, turns out, was just the opposite, there was no cat material in the LH side secondary cat. These were supposed to be new cats put on in January. Along with O2 sensors, and well, the LH one has holes drilled in the tip of it, and P0430 code from the LH side since I bought it. Was both side (P0420), and that was cleared up with the supposedly new cats and spacers on the O2. That was alarming, because at least if it were clogged, the low flow might have been causing the P0430, SO, a straight pipe would not help now, even three spacers deep... So, I cut the RH side out, and was normal, cat material through and through, no cracks or pieces missing. I welded in straight pipe to replace the secondary cats, and the TEMPs are still much hotter on the passenger side. Not knowing how the baffles are on the mufflers, but maybe cat material all blew out, and is clogging the muffler? I do get flow on both sides, just that LH side being barely warm -vs- Hot. All new plugs too, and the car runs good... Would retarded exhaust cam timing effect the temps? What else is left? Has anyone else checked their exhaust temps, and it's the same?

05-20-2020, 04:58 PM	#10
DSX_Camaro Drives: 2013 SW 2LT/RS LFX/AY6 Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 1,741	Have you taken the downpipes off the car and checked the primary cats? 420 and 430 are primary cat low efficiency codes and you already know one of the secondary cats had no material in it so you know they haven't been replaced. __________________ K&N CAI, 1LE Strut Tower Brace, Elite Engineering Catch Can and Clean Side Separator, Apex Scoop w/ Washer Relocation Kit, CTS Front Calipers and Rotors, JacFab Ported Intake Manifold, JacFab Intake Manifold Spacer, 80mm Overkill Throttle Body, SS Brake Lines, Ideal Garage Master Cylinder, Monster Twin Disc Clutch, NPP Retrofit w/ Magnaflow Resonated X, ARH Catless Downpipes, JRE Built 3.45 Diff, 1LE Axles, 1LE Hubs, Overkill Tuned, BMR Anti Wheel-hop Kit Stage I, ACS TL1 Hood Insert, ZL1 Spoiler

05-17-2020, 12:23 AM	#2
'10CamaroDude Account Suspended Drives: 2010 Camaro LS Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Pgh Posts: 739 View My Garage	Looked at some "inside" pictures of the mufflers, if it was clogged, it would be really clogged. The passenger side pipe, has a crush spot in it for clearance for the driveshaft mount. So, that's maybe why it runs hotter on that side.

05-17-2020, 06:18 AM	#3
alice Drives: 2010 camaro limited edition turbo Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: saint petersburg, florida Posts: 499 View My Garage	I have a 2010 Camaro with a 2014 LFX engine and rear mount twin turbochargers. No mufflers. I have left and right wide band AFR's & EGT probes at each outlet of the cylinder heads and they are located in the exact same position. As you have indicated, the drivers bank runs 150-200 degrees hotter than the passenger bank. The wide bands indicated exact fuel ratios on both banks. I cannot explain the difference in EGT readings when the AFR readings are the same. Makes no sense to me and have been like this since the installation of a brand new LFX engine. I, too, am perplexed by this and would also like to have an explanation as to why this happens. When the AFR readings are the same, it would seem to me that the EGT readings would also be very, very close. Just does not make any sense.

05-18-2020, 06:16 AM	#5
alice Drives: 2010 camaro limited edition turbo Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: saint petersburg, florida Posts: 499 View My Garage	Honestly, I wouldn't worry about it. As long as A/F ratios are in specification, that should be the gold standard of engine operation and performance. There are too many variables when trying to compare left and right EGT's. This would be my opinion. My EGT's are perfect, so I disregard the left and right EGT discrepancy.

05-18-2020, 04:03 PM	#6
'10CamaroDude Account Suspended Drives: 2010 Camaro LS Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Pgh Posts: 739 View My Garage	I am just hoping I do not have a chain issue on bank 2 causing retarded exhaust timing. That will never allow the P0430 to clear unless I use a simulator. I have a junk O2 sensor LH side, downstream, and have two OEM ones coming, so I can put it in, and see what happens. The RH side is fine, with the spacers, that got rid of the P0420 code, and is an OE sensor. The LH side is not OE, the wire is way too long, wrapped and zip-tied. Someone also drilled two holes in the tip of the sensor, but it's supposed to be new... I am three spacers deep on the LH side, it should not be seeing too much oxygen, but it's not an OE sensor. Two spacers on the RH side, it's fine. I also got a low voltage code, and a heater code on the LH side. P0161 was the latest. I got a P2099 when in sport mode, 5th, lugging up a hill with my foot to the floor, that was before the second cats were cut out.

05-19-2020, 05:03 PM	#7
'10CamaroDude Account Suspended Drives: 2010 Camaro LS Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Pgh Posts: 739 View My Garage	Replaced the crap sensor with an OEM sensor, will run the 376 miles tonight and see what's up. Left side tail and muffler was actually cold yesterday after running it all night. IF all fails, will try signal jumping... Then tune them out, if it will pass emissions.

05-20-2020, 05:57 AM	#8
'10CamaroDude Account Suspended Drives: 2010 Camaro LS Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Pgh Posts: 739 View My Garage	Still got the P0430 code, with a real spacer, and not two anti-foulers. I have done everything to try and fix this, and have till the end if June before emissions is up.

05-20-2020, 02:43 PM	#9
'10CamaroDude Account Suspended Drives: 2010 Camaro LS Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Pgh Posts: 739 View My Garage	P0420 returned with a factory sensor in the driver side...

05-20-2020, 05:31 PM	#11
'10CamaroDude Account Suspended Drives: 2010 Camaro LS Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Pgh Posts: 739 View My Garage	They were replaced, they're not the factory down-pipes. They're hi-flow cats, they said. They knew what they put on were not factory. They had the cat codes from the beginning. They were able to get P0420 to go away with spacers. There is a factory sensor in the passenger side, and a junk Bosch sensor in the driver side, for the continued P0430 code. So, I bought two factory sensors from a 40,000 mile car, that WAS working just fine. I put a factory sensor back in the driver side, P0430 remained, there was no P0420. I ran it last night, and both P0420 and P0430 were stored when I checked today. There was no P0420 when I got it back, and all I did was change the driver side sensor, and now P0420 returned. I have been chasing this down for 3 months, one week at a time, due to my work schedule. When we took the secondary cats off, there was material in both Primary cats. Only ONE secondary cat had no material. Could it have gotten blown into the exhaust, and it's partially clogging the passenger side? I will be having the data looked at tomorrow or Friday, to see what the sensors are doing. I also pulled #5 and #20 fuse to reset the ECU Keep Alive Memory. Made a huge difference on how the car runs. I changed the plugs, and VVT Solenoids, and it ran like crap. It still back-pops cold, and was not doing that before the plug change. However, the P0430 was always there, even with the plugs that were in it. It didn't start back-popping till I changed the Bank 2 exhaust cam VVT solenoid. I put the factory one back in, and it still does it. Now, when at hard acceleration, I am getting a real fast sounding "whawhawhawhawhawha" oscillation in the driver side exhaust, that was NOT there before pulling ECU power, and it pulls much better than it did prior.

05-21-2020, 11:51 AM	#12
dookie454 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS LS3 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Michigan Posts: 143	regarding the difference in temperature but "identical" AFR readings.. keep in mind the AFR readings are an average of the 4 cylinders. One or two could be rich, the other two could be lean, and the rich cylinders could be cooling the exhaust air. The opposite bank's cylinders could be closer together in individual AFR, making for a hotter exhaust temp.