[sr71bb]

Well I had AMP install a LME 416 and it made close to 700HP on the engine dyno at LME and roughly 580 to the rear wheels at AMP. This a naturally aspirated set up that I use for BOTH track and daily driving.

I pulled a small tire trailer with me to the track today and it got roughly 14.5 MPG going 80-85MPH on E85. This is a VERY efficient engine.

Engine is fully forged with both ARP lower end studs and ARP head Studs.

[Revalot]

I would LME only, how about a stock motor, and 2650R with your cam? stock boost, should give you a 150 hp boost, and cooling should will be the same if not a tad better/few degrees cooler. There has been some bad press with the other brand of motors.

[iwk2much]

Originally Posted by dbs1

I feel your pain. We ran too much ethanol and ran a couple of cylinders too lean and...not good. Happened the first part of dec and just started working on it a few weeks ago.

Thanks - good luck on your build!

[iwk2much]

I was thinking of going NA only but not sure how complex that is with all the heat exchangers in the ZL1.

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by Greg83

Gotcha. Just out of curiosity, what year ZLE? I’m wondering if the 2019 and newer cars are going to have oil pump problems.

While there's no doubt that the oil pump is the Achilles heel of the LT4, I question whether the OP actually experienced pump failure. The oil pump would not contribute in any way to the smashed plug issue. Looks to me like he swallowed a valve

[Mac7504]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

While there's no doubt that the oil pump is the Achilles heel of the LT4, I question whether the OP actually experienced pump failure. The oil pump would not contribute in any way to the smashed plug issue. Looks to me like he swallowed a valve

It appears to me like there was a preexisting issue as well, also with fouled, damaged plugs. I can't and not willing to attribute this to the oil pump....just my take.

[h018871]

Yep, something hard was banging around in that cylinder. Your plug looks familiar.
You have a chance to overbuild, as long as money is not an issue. Go forged rotating assembly with stock-ish displacement and compression. Either ported OEM blower or a larger one and a mild cam with a fuel lobe will be quite enjoyable.

Good Luck

[iwk2much]

We will now what the internals look like soon. Can in the shop for a tear down.

My oil pressure went to zero when this occured which is the reason I thought it was oil pump. What would cause the valve to break? too lean?

[Bangkok_ZL1]

Originally Posted by h018871

Yep, something hard was banging around in that cylinder. Your plug looks familiar.
You have a chance to overbuild, as long as money is not an issue. Go forged rotating assembly with stock-ish displacement and compression. Either ported OEM blower or a larger one and a mild cam with a fuel lobe will be quite enjoyable.

Good Luck

OMG, what was the cause of this?

[h018871]

Intake valve failed. It definitely was not a normal valve failure.
The head was repaired, had to replace the block and a piston

Kind of a fluke failure

[EDFHOBBIES]

Not bashing LME's work at all we know they are the best builders but that 600 700 NA number is a big JOKE. There high dyno #s come from the 5k intake manifold as it claims 50 plus hp over stock and not to mention the velocity stack attached to the not so stock TB is worth a ton as well.

a lt4 built 376 with the same compression and stroke basically all it has is a cam and ported lt4 heads doesn't make the jump from 455 hp (LT1 with 11:1 compression or there abouts) jump in to 600 plus. What I'm saying is just having forged internals with the same stroke isn't going to add any power (unless its lightweight stuff) and a cam and heads are probably worth 100 max 70 hp cam 30 hp heads. Its that bad ass intake.. so going off an even higher higher compression LT1 with 455 hp, 100 hp from cam and heads is 555 hp.. that intake is doing the magic!

I want a new motor to, I want to give the wife mine before i blow it up.. she wants more power and the LT1 just isn't safe above 630 rwhp in my opinion its like me running my stock one currently at 1044 rwhp.

I think the best bang for the buck is the stock LT4 crank (fix the main bearing issue of course) Summit rods - little insider I was looking at the K1 rods that work with an off the shelf no balance LT1 piston and called K1 about stock the guy assured me hint hint that he would use Summit racing LS/Lt rods in heart beat pretty much told me they make them for them. He said he had no worries making 1700 hp with them. I found a good deal Mahle pistons for 500.00. Ill probably take the parts to LME or use Morgan and Son in dallas they do motors for the guys on discovery channel. They are pretty affordable to.

now I just need to decide the 30lb lighter Lt8 iron block from MAST or another Aluminum block.

see pic this is my buddies motor you can see the LTX manifold, TB, and velocity stack.

[AZ_1LE]

Originally Posted by iwk2much

We will now what the internals look like soon. Can in the shop for a tear down.

My oil pressure went to zero when this occured which is the reason I thought it was oil pump. What would cause the valve to break? too lean?

Lots of things could have happened. It could have swallowed that valve which wrecked the piston, then the rod could have smash into the block and hit an oil main.

[iwk2much]

verdict in, not oil pump but valve failure.

[SSDan]

Wow! That exhaust valve had a grand ole time bouncing around on top of that piston!

As painful as that is to see at least now you know what happened and can move on. Have you settled on where and what to get for the engine replacement?

Good luck and keep us posted.