[psycotroop]

Hey guys, I know there are a lot of posts about this type of thing all over these forums, and I've read most of them and they have helped me get to the point I am now. I bought this car a year ago and it had just over 40k miles on it. have never had a single issue until I took it to have new tires mounted. Now I don't think they caused the issues with the battery since they shouldn't have messed with anything of that nature for the purpose of changing the tires. Anyway, I took the car and it was behaving fine. drove about 20 miles and stopped at the store to pick up some things. Came out, car started fine so I drove for about another 15 to 20 miles and stopped to pick up a couple more items. was in the store no longer than 10 minutes. Came out and the battery was completely dead. Just clicks. Got boosted and drove the 3 miles home. Let it run for a few minutes then shut it off. Drove for over a week and put about 400 miles on it. Its my daily and I drive it to work. No issues. Got put on leave on Monday due to being exposed to Covid, and was sent home. next day, Tuesday, I drove out to my local store to pick up some things for my little vacation, and when I got out, dead battery. Now during none of this did I ever receive any warnings that something was wrong with the battery or charging system. Got boosted again. Got home and charged the battery over night. Was on full charge. Took it to have the battery and alternator tested and both passed. So I came home. Hoped that maybe it had fixed itself. Fast forward two day and the battery was dead again. Just by setting. I checked all connections and such then began searching to find solutions. I did the parasitic leech test and the power drain was right around 3.5 amps, which is well above the danger zone. So I got my brother to help me test all the fuses and modules to see which ones were drawing significant power. All the ones that appeared to have the biggest drop in usage had to do with the radio and entertainment system. None of the fuses and modules under the hood had any effect. They were all in the trunk, which I had the latch closed to make it think it was closed. My question is, what exactly can I do about the radio system not going to sleep properly when the car is shut off? If it helps I will list the fuse numbers that had the biggest drop in power #16 - Display #45 - AMP #47 - Shunt #55 Radio Control. All of these had at least a .7 or higher drop in Amps when pulled. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[discgolf01]

Just to clarify when you say "dead battery" - you go to push start and crank and the dash lights up but engine can't turn over or everything electrical is dead? I'm assuming its the first since you were able to get into the car without manually cycling the door key/lock and used the FOB.

[ctrlz]

Is this the original battery on a 2017? If so, I would consider replacing it. You really did not post much info about the battery, such as resting or charging voltage.

the 3.5 amp draw sounds very high for infotainment equipment at rest. If you have a 2SS with Bose, I would consider unplugging the Bose amp in the trunk. I think the head unit will still work with that unplugged. that may reduce parasitic draw.

A borderline battery can cause a lot of weird problems. If voltage is low, it may not be letting infotainment sleep properly.

Also, I believe the SS has battery with an RC rating of 120. That means it can last 120 minutes with a 25 amp drain. Sounds like that should have lasted for your shopping trip, assuming the battery was recharged by the car.

[Rock-It Man]

The radio, displays, and DC socket will stay on for 10 or 15 minutes after your shut off the car, unless you open the door first. For some people, there has been a problem with the sensor that detects an open door...but then again' if the window drops an inch when you open the door, the switch is working.

Other electrical gremlins include aftermarket radios and LED bulbs replacing incandescent, like the license plate illumination.