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Old 02-09-2022, 01:27 PM   #1
LsSwapit
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS TT
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Post What to do/get next

I have a 2010 Camaro SS with 90k miles that I just installed a AGP Twin Turbo kit, 52/57 ball bearing turbos, zl1 fuel pump, 850cc aus injectors and 3 bar map sensor as well as a kenne belle Boost-A-Pump. I just installed the TT kit before winter so have only gotten to drive it a couple times on only 6lbs of boost.

When I take it out again this spring I was wondering, am I capable of turning the boost up? Or should I build the top end of the motor and possibly a ZL1 rear-end first before raising the boost at all?

Here are some pics:
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Old 02-09-2022, 01:38 PM   #2
redcoats1976


 
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what to get next?a huge gasoline storage tank,fill it while you can afford it...
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Old 02-09-2022, 05:06 PM   #3
CamaroDreams76
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depends on power goals and what you want to do with the car.
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Old 02-10-2022, 08:12 AM   #4
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You can certainly move up from 6# without adding anything. The stock valvetrain is capable of spinning up to 7k and you can make a lot of power well under that. A ZL1 pump with a BAP should be good to 700-750hp on 93. If the FPCM is not tuned for boost, you will want to do that. If you are not going to be launching on sticky tires, the stock diff could be fine for quite a while and even if it gives up you could move to a TruTrack carrier or ZL1 at that time. If you beat on it at high hp, the axles and clutch might be the first things to give up. If you have not done anything to the rear suspension to prevent wheel hop, that is probably where you should start.
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2010 SS - On3 kit with downpipe cutout, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1/1LE brakes.

2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes.
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Old 02-10-2022, 11:39 AM   #5
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Imo it really doesnt hurt to cam the car, you already are making decent power with that TT kit, camming it and building that valvetrain will only open up more potential for power and it will ensure youre not gonna have any issues with your motor as far as valvetrain goes. Id definitely work on building up that rear end tho, one piece drive shaft and some good axles and youre honestly set for a while, the diff should be fine unless youre putting strain on it by doing burnouts or digs in the car.
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Old 02-10-2022, 10:01 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by CamaroCracka View Post
You can certainly move up from 6# without adding anything. The stock valvetrain is capable of spinning up to 7k and you can make a lot of power well under that. A ZL1 pump with a BAP should be good to 700-750hp on 93. If the FPCM is not tuned for boost, you will want to do that. If you are not going to be launching on sticky tires, the stock diff could be fine for quite a while and even if it gives up you could move to a TruTrack carrier or ZL1 at that time. If you beat on it at high hp, the axles and clutch might be the first things to give up. If you have not done anything to the rear suspension to prevent wheel hop, that is probably where you should start.
Thanks for all the responses guys! Any recommendations on what to do first for rear suspension to prevent wheel hop? I forgot to mention also I do have the upgraded FPCM and it is all tuned.

Also, any ideas what kind of gains I would get if I add meth?
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Old 02-11-2022, 08:07 AM   #7
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I never dyno'd without the meth. It's hot here, so I use meth to cool the intake charge. It's more for safety than power gains. I had the boost reference come out of the wastegate at NCM and it was running wide open boost all day without me realizing it. The turbo flange gasket exited the area and the manifold gasket gave up sealing as well. I'm pretty sure the forged bottom end and meth saved the motor. I could have kept running with it as is. It just had blow by coming out of the valve cover filter, but it had a rear main leak too, so I pulled it and fixed the cylinders that were down on compression.

For the rear, solid cradle bushings, or at least poly, BMR toe rods, and trailing arms. Toe rods and trailing arms are easier, so guys usually start there. If you need to replace the cradle bushings you can replace the inner UCA bushing while you are dropping the cradle. Diff bushings are a PITA, but they help too.
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2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes.
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Old 02-11-2022, 04:09 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by LsSwapit View Post
Thanks for all the responses guys! Any recommendations on what to do first for rear suspension to prevent wheel hop? I forgot to mention also I do have the upgraded FPCM and it is all tuned.

Also, any ideas what kind of gains I would get if I add meth?
Trailing arms, toe links and solid subframe bushings.


Id guess another 50-75whp with meth. Maybe more
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Old 02-16-2022, 06:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LsSwapit View Post
I have a 2010 Camaro SS with 90k miles that I just installed a AGP Twin Turbo kit, 52/57 ball bearing turbos, zl1 fuel pump, 850cc aus injectors and 3 bar map sensor as well as a kenne belle Boost-A-Pump. I just installed the TT kit before winter so have only gotten to drive it a couple times on only 6lbs of boost.

When I take it out again this spring I was wondering, am I capable of turning the boost up? Or should I build the top end of the motor and possibly a ZL1 rear-end first before raising the boost at all?

Here are some pics:

Awesome bro. This is my goal once I get right. How much did you spend total ?
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Old 02-16-2022, 07:32 PM   #10
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Take a look at my signature for suspension mods. Zero wheel hop. Dead hook on track. 10 second car. Still on stock manifold, stock heads, bottom end, tranny, axles, and rear. This car is driven to its limits on the track. So far, so good. 18 months on build. 12lbs. boost.
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Old 02-20-2022, 10:44 PM   #11
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Drives: 2010 Camaro SS TT
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Awesome bro. This is my goal once I get right. How much did you spend total ?
Thanks again for all the responses guys, And so far I have about 12k or so into the car in mods but about 6k of that was cosmetic
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