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Old 08-25-2022, 07:13 AM   #15
Joshinator99


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyinmach1 View Post
Looks like you overcome the lack of instructions and a properly designed kit, very nice install results, looks great! Just a thought on the drainage for adding ice, but what if you installed 1/4 turn ball valve(s) on the inlet and outlet lines coming from the pump, to hold the water from draining the lines and inter cooler bricks when you drain water to add more ice? There's already 1 for the main tank drain, inline ball valves could actually be lower profile depending on the type selected. If you're already planning to weld on an additional custom made riser, that would essentially solve your problem. Just thinking how others might resolve this issue if they didn't have the resources to modify the tank to overcome the whole issue with gravity that you already identified. Bummer, what a poorly designed system. At least you have plans that will make it work!
That’s not a bad idea… thanks! We could get away with a one way check valve on the pump discharge line, so I’d only need a valve on the return line that goes into the tank. That was definitely be a lot cheaper that modifying the tank…
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Old 08-25-2022, 07:50 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by laynlo15 View Post
It seems that a lot of companies don't have good instructions or no instructions as in Josh's case. Its rare to even get paper instructions anymore, usually companies have you download instructions from there website and are usually poorly written.
You certainly cannot place your former employer, Magnuson, in this category. I was really impressed with the oem caliber fit & finish of my 2300 kit. The instruction book was extremely well done also
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Old 08-25-2022, 07:56 AM   #17
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Dude... that sucks. I'm sorry you had to go through all of that. While I know it wasn't free, at least your shop seems VERY MUCH on top of things, and is getting you squared away, proper. KUDOS to them for actually using their brains (what you pay them for), but more just being a business in it to do good work.

I would have never thought of most of the stuff about the intercooler brick-height relative to draining the tank and all of that. I'm not, and never claimed to be an expert, but it's just amazing the thought the care these good shops put into their customer's builds.
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Old 08-25-2022, 08:24 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Joshinator99 View Post
Here’s where it gets crappy. The design of the tank is simply not designed to work with an ice system…! An Interchiller maybe, since you can leave the tank closed all the time. BUT, THE BIG PROBLEM IS THE TANK IS NEARLY A FOOT LOWER IN ELEVATION THAN THE BLOWER BRICKS! This is a massive design flaw for an advertised ice tank!!! Any attempt to drain down the tank results in the bricks draining out and filling with air…. This would be a nightmare to purge out every single time you tried to add ice. That’s why the Synergy tank is designed the way it is, with a MUCH higher fill point! The Synergy fill point is nearly a whopping 18” higher than the WX tank, which makes it a much better design for an ice tank.

Furthermore, my shop will need to fabricate an ice screen for the pump inlet so that a chip of ice doesn’t clog the inlet tube. I can’t believe this WX tank is advertised as an ice tank.
Now you've got me scurrying away to confirm that my fill cap is higher than the manifold CL. Believe it is.
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Old 08-25-2022, 08:43 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by radz28 View Post
Dude... that sucks. I'm sorry you had to go through all of that. While I know it wasn't free, at least your shop seems VERY MUCH on top of things, and is getting you squared away, proper. KUDOS to them for actually using their brains (what you pay them for), but more just being a business in it to do good work.

I would have never thought of most of the stuff about the intercooler brick-height relative to draining the tank and all of that. I'm not, and never claimed to be an expert, but it's just amazing the thought the care these good shops put into their customer's builds.
Every time there is a hiccup with an install they call me. I’ll usually drag my brother with me against his will and we all review it together. We’ll bounce a few ideas off each other and come up with the absolute best way to do it. It slows the process down and makes for a pricey install, but every project on my car has come out great thankfully. For example, when we did the Whipple my guy was not impressed with the IC pump wiring harness so he made one up using the OEM connectors and tool. He never uses self tappers either, everything is bolted to the car like OEM! Virtually every bracket is custom fit to my car. Most shops slam stuff in with self tappers and these guys won’t do it. They’re not perfect and they’ll be the first to say it, but they try hard to give a guy like me (with OCD) exactly what I want.
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Old 08-25-2022, 09:21 AM   #20
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I would hit LMP-maryland up if I was in the market for an ice tank. Just putting that out there for those that might be looking into one.
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Old 08-25-2022, 09:50 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by KingLT1 View Post
I would hit LMP-maryland up if I was in the market for an ice tank. Just putting that out there for those that might be looking into one.
I saw that new tank, too. I hadn't, yet, checked to see if it was available though. I almost said something, but you beat me to it.
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Old 08-25-2022, 11:46 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingLT1 View Post
I would hit LMP-maryland up if I was in the market for an ice tank. Just putting that out there for those that might be looking into one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by radz28 View Post
I saw that new tank, too. I hadn't, yet, checked to see if it was available though. I almost said something, but you beat me to it.
All I can find is the front bumper tank: https://lmpofmd.com/i-30504567-lmp-g...-ice-tank.html Not sure if they offer a trunk tank? I was trying to pull the weight off the front end and relocate it over the rear tires preferably.
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Old 08-25-2022, 11:57 AM   #23
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We've got pumps on supply and return so a small elevation difference is not a critical issue. And we have screened the supply line, but I don't see me putting ice in it very often.
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'20 ZL1 1LE A10,
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100+ octanes, no eth, no meth, no N2O.
2/23 - 1031/1004 wheel.
4/23 - 1.41/9.61/145 at DA 7000 ft. (only made five passes).
2/24 - LME 390, E2650, FBO, 100 oct.; 1116hp/ 1063tq; 109 oct. dyno next.
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Old 08-25-2022, 12:56 PM   #24
radz28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshinator99 View Post
All I can find is the front bumper tank: https://lmpofmd.com/i-30504567-lmp-g...-ice-tank.html Not sure if they offer a trunk tank? I was trying to pull the weight off the front end and relocate it over the rear tires preferably.

14:20 is the trunk tank
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Old 08-25-2022, 02:36 PM   #25
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Lot of good ideas there, except adding a bunch of weight to the nose will tend to hurt traction. I didn't hear him say how many gal. On the other hand, my Eddie probably added 10-15 lbs. and my tank adds 70 lbs to the rear
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'20 ZL1 1LE A10,
OEM short block, LME heads/valve train, E2650.
100+ octanes, no eth, no meth, no N2O.
2/23 - 1031/1004 wheel.
4/23 - 1.41/9.61/145 at DA 7000 ft. (only made five passes).
2/24 - LME 390, E2650, FBO, 100 oct.; 1116hp/ 1063tq; 109 oct. dyno next.
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Old 08-25-2022, 03:33 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSH View Post
We've got pumps on supply and return so a small elevation difference is not a critical issue. And we have screened the supply line, but I don't see me putting ice in it very often.
Nothing to do with pumps. The pumps are off when you’re trying to drain the tank down to add ice. Lower tank will receive water from the bricks when you drain the lower tank and send air up to the bricks. If you never add ice than you’ll be fine assuming you can get all the air out…tough to do if the bricks are higher up than the purge point.
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Old 08-25-2022, 05:27 PM   #27
JSH


 
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Originally Posted by Joshinator99 View Post
Nothing to do with pumps. The pumps are off when you’re trying to drain the tank down to add ice. Lower tank will receive water from the bricks when you drain the lower tank and send air up to the bricks. If you never add ice than you’ll be fine assuming you can get all the air out…tough to do if the bricks are higher up than the purge point.
Yep, I'm too lazy to run ice.
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'20 ZL1 1LE A10,
OEM short block, LME heads/valve train, E2650.
100+ octanes, no eth, no meth, no N2O.
2/23 - 1031/1004 wheel.
4/23 - 1.41/9.61/145 at DA 7000 ft. (only made five passes).
2/24 - LME 390, E2650, FBO, 100 oct.; 1116hp/ 1063tq; 109 oct. dyno next.
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Old 08-26-2022, 12:59 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshinator99 View Post
Here’s where it gets crappy. The design of the tank is simply not designed to work with an ice system…! An Interchiller maybe, since you can leave the tank closed all the time. BUT, THE BIG PROBLEM IS THE TANK IS NEARLY A FOOT LOWER IN ELEVATION THAN THE BLOWER BRICKS! This is a massive design flaw for an advertised ice tank!!! Any attempt to drain down the tank results in the bricks draining out and filling with air…. This would be a nightmare to purge out every single time you tried to add ice. That’s why the Synergy tank is designed the way it is, with a MUCH higher fill point! The Synergy fill point is nearly a whopping 18” higher than the WX tank, which makes it a much better design for an ice tank.

Furthermore, my shop will need to fabricate an ice screen for the pump inlet so that a chip of ice doesn’t clog the inlet tube. I can’t believe this WX tank is advertised as an ice tank.
This is not necessarily true. In an ideal system, yes the tank has to be higher than the highest point in the system. With in-car packaging, this is not always the case. Typically you run a very high flow pump (such as an emp) that flows so much water, that every time you start the car, it will pump so much water through the system and remove the air in the process.

If you are concerned with air in the system, you can add some ball valves (mechanical or electronic) and plum them in your system, so you can close them before draining, and reopen them after filling.
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