[jw0287]

So non Adjustable upper and lower trailing arms for example


From bmr have non adjust - 1 time adjust - and fully adjustable?

So for a car to be used for the drag strip and driving around town, would I need to get the adjustable?

They cost more. But would they benefit me?

What will adjustments make?

After each adjustment is an alignment needed?

[1badrwd]

Well the non adjustable pieces would be just as described, no adjustment but are stronger and better than stock.

The single adjustment pieces are adjustable but to adjust them you have to take them off the car to do so. You might use these if you think you might plan to lower the car in the future. They will get angles back to specs.

Fully adjustable would be good for making regular changes(drag strip, track racing, etc.) and you don't have to take them off the car to adjust them.

if you know what your doing you could get to the point of being able to adjust them for different situations and be okay without an alignment. On the other hand if your not that experienced and you go adjusting 2-3 suspension parts and don't have things right you could be in a world of hurt.

i plan to get fully adjustable when i change everything. I know i want the freedom of being able to change my setup if i want and i know i don't want to have to take parts off to adjust them when i want to do that.

[bpang1234]

^^^This is basically what I have read and experienced as well (on a different car).

The one thing I would add is you need to think about what level of NVH you would be fine with in your car. The Non-adjustables still have bushings (stronger Polyurethane ones versus the stock rubber ones) whereas the other two have rod ends with no cushioning. The higher up you go (Stock to Non-Adj. to Single to Full) the more NVH you will get.

I know that in my WRX, going to the full adjustables made it pretty noisy (basically a creaking sound) so that is why I went with the Non-Adjustables that I ordered a few days ago. I don't think I could offer you a good comparison opinion as I have not experienced BMR's full adjustables and they likely have higher technology in their rod ends than the ones I had in the WRX which was more than a decade older.

[TEX1LE]

I’ve added most of the BMR parts and the NVH increase is very minimal in my opinion so I wouldn’t worry about it too much.

[7stringtheory]

i just ordered the lockout cradle bushings, rear cradle braces, sway bars / end links, double adjustable toe rods, and the fully adjustable upper / lower trailing arms and the fully adjustable upper control arm for my 1LE and I cant wait!

[bpang1234]

Originally Posted by TEX1LE

I’ve added most of the BMR parts and the NVH increase is very minimal in my opinion so I wouldn’t worry about it too much.

The fully adjustable ones?

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by jw0287

So non Adjustable upper and lower trailing arms for example


From bmr have non adjust - 1 time adjust - and fully adjustable?

So for a car to be used for the drag strip and driving around town, would I need to get the adjustable?

They cost more. But would they benefit me?

What will adjustments make?

After each adjustment is an alignment needed?

truthfully, the non adjustables will suffice. however it will make alignments easier and quicker....aka more efficient. either way, whatever you get, you will need an alignment. its just a matter of doing it via the arms or the adjustable stock hardware bolts....

something to think about however, the rear camber bolts and some of the hardware are TTY (torque to yield) meaning they should be replaced every alignment. http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=502324

naturally the cost effective way would be to get adjustable arms. mainly the upper control arm for camber adjustments and the toe rods. the other two trailing arms can stay stock/non adjustable really.

also its a no brainer, but if you plan to use em year round, and not just a garage queen/track car.... def anti-seize the hell out the threads so nothing freezes up, preventing adjustment.

Originally Posted by 7stringtheory

i just ordered the lockout cradle bushings, rear cradle braces, sway bars / end links, double adjustable toe rods, and the fully adjustable upper / lower trailing arms and the fully adjustable upper control arm for my 1LE and I cant wait!

Are the cradle lockouts an upgrade for the 1le? (never mind, reread the brochure thingy) the SS bushings are FE3 , and what the V6 upgrades to on the FE2 stock bushings.

so both the SS and V6 1LE's run the FE3 bushings.

I just ordered the cradle lockouts myself on Monday. already had the front braces...still need to get the rear one and the toe rod.

[BMR Tech]

Originally Posted by jw0287

So non Adjustable upper and lower trailing arms for example


From bmr have non adjust - 1 time adjust - and fully adjustable?

So for a car to be used for the drag strip and driving around town, would I need to get the adjustable?

They cost more. But would they benefit me?

What will adjustments make?

After each adjustment is an alignment needed?

Here are my recommendations:

Non Adjustable arms for daily driver/street strip cars that do not need any adjustment for alignment settings.

Single Adjustable arms for cars that set their alignment and leave it, for example a car that sees more race use than street use. These can be used on a street/strip car or daily driver if the increase in NVH does not concern you.

On Car Adjustable arms for auto cross/road race cars that are constantly adjusting and realigning their suspension. Again these can be used on a daily driver if the increase in NVH does not concern you.

Anytime you change suspension components an alignment is recommended. If you choose the on car adjustable arms and have the car aligned I recommend marking the adjuster after the alignment, so if you make small adjustments at the track, you can then get back to where you started after the alignment.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

[JaxChris]

Very honest response from Frank. I have the non-adjustable trailing arms and springs. Alignment is definitely needed (especially when springs are changed).

The adjustables can have a tiny click/clack to them, while the non-adjustables have slight squeak from the poly bushings when going over bumps/dips slowly, normal driving at speed you won't hear anything.

If the car is your daily driver and you don't go to competitive events with it, stick with the non-adjustable setup.

[RobbyRocketz]

Just had everything that BMR has available including the cradle bushings installed.
All the parts are of the fully adjustable variety and the noise levels are dramatic, lots of sqeeking and creaking, but the back end feels dramatically more stable even moreso than the stock 1LE setup, so im happy, i went into it knowing that it was going too get noisy so im fine with it.

[jw0287]

Thanks for all the info.

[Bluecyclone]

The cradle lockouts and 4pt. front BMR units have helped my GT Mustang greatly. Now I want the adj. toe rods.