Rear main seal blew out - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

SKI-LAXN · 03-25-2017, 05:25 PM

I have a 2010 Camaro l99 that is not stock anymore bought it with motor blown and out of car. List of what's done
Ls3 heads with dual springs
Ls7 lifters
Eagle rods
Diamond pistons
Tick stage 3 turbo cam
Dyno tuned at 620 hp on pump gas
Turbonetics turbo
13# of boost
Spent some time driving with pcv to atmosphere. Put one catch can on and drove about 12 miles and she smoked really bad also noticed a leak. Vented back to atmosphere and no problems. Put a second catch can design on from elite and piped all hoses as per instructions drove 30 miles no smoke all good.
On way home got into it with a corvette we were on them hard I blew out the rearmain seal. To much pressure or pre damage.

Trob85 · 03-25-2017, 08:05 PM

Had the same problem with a different brand of catch can went to the Mighty Mouse draft can with oil cap fitting haven't had a problem since and it has caught some nasty NASTY stuff since I run e85. As for your question it could be both I'm sure most of the damage was already done but if what you had couldn't completely evacuate the pressure it would just open old wounds. I'm sure someone will chime in against them but I know I had damage from the other setup as was skeptical about Mighty Mouse but it did great and held up until I was able to change it a few months ago.

Kiwi_Camaro_2010 · 03-26-2017, 12:27 AM

These engines under boost need room to breath from bottom end, had same prob, now run a spring loaded valve breather that releases pressure under boost only, when normal driving normal PCV system is at work with catch can, this stopped my rear main seal pushing oil out.

stevieturbo · 03-26-2017, 04:56 AM

Either you are not installing it correctly, or it is crap.

Vent to atmosphere is simple and reliable. What more could you ask for ? lol

Elite Engineering · 03-26-2017, 08:45 AM

Do as Turbonetics has suggested and tested extensivly:

This is using our E2-X Ultra system with cleanside and -8 lines. It pulls evacuation suction from 2 separate sources to always pull suction on your crankcase and never allowing pressure to build so far better than allowing pressure to build and vent. Forced induction creates far more blow-by than NA, and the piston rings need suction below and pressure above to seal properly and maintain stability. If you allow pressure to build and vent, then you create these issues explained in technical detail:

http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories...-ring-tension/

http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories...en-horsepower/

and this example on the dyno. First pull is just venting, second is pulling suction/vacuum:

So choosing the correct solution for your build is critical, and the E2-X Ultra system is designed just for boosted to 1200 plus HP.

SKI-LAXN · 03-26-2017, 09:05 AM

It is setup like that. Using those diagrams. Looking at it I could have blue and green backwards. I also used 1/2 inch hose from breather to turbo. Worked great until was very hard into it and rear main blew out.

SKI-LAXN · 03-26-2017, 09:06 AM

Sorry light blue hose to air filter

Elite Engineering · 03-26-2017, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SKI-LAXN

It is setup like that. Using those diagrams. Looking at it I could have blue and green backwards. I also used 1/2 inch hose from breather to turbo. Worked great until was very hard into it and rear main blew out.

Something doesn't seem right. A system installed as the diagrams show, with proper clean-side cannot cause any pressure to build as it would vent just like the breathers out the clean-side and into the main air filter. It might be an error in check valves or hose routing.

Our tech team can assist even if you are running a different can than our E2-X Ultra

shoot us an email at:

tech@eliteengineeringusa.com

Trob85 · 03-26-2017, 11:09 AM

http://www.mightymousesolutions.com its worth a look.

jman123 · 03-27-2017, 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevieturbo

Either you are not installing it correctly, or it is crap.

Vent to atmosphere is simple and reliable. What more could you ask for ? lol

How would you go about venting to atmosphere? I would like to do the same

hillshooter · 03-27-2017, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jman123

How would you go about venting to atmosphere? I would like to do the same

you just vent directly on the valve cover. They make oil filler neck vents and other thing to help to this. you can also modify valve covers.

I ran it this way for like two weeks and couldn't stand it. It stinks literally. I would always smell oil vapor inside the car.

Spend the money and get a mighty mouse. I just got mine two weeks ago and it is bad ass.

Elite Engineering · 03-27-2017, 10:04 AM

If you vent to the atmosphere, you are allowing pressure to always be present when not at idle, light cruise, or deceleration. This causes piston rings to become unstable and "Ring Flutter" occurs. Also, your leaving most of the contaminates in the crankcase to accumulate VS evacuating them....engine life goes down substantially and the increased blow-by is never good. The OP has an issue with routing it appears and may not be running the E2-X Ultra (required for forced induction builds like this). So you can shorten engine life and increase blow-by by venting, or do it correctly. While we take the time to supply all technical data n all of this and detailed explanations, the "trolls" just say "do this". We feel your investment in your car and build is far to valuable to revert to technology from the 1960's and earlier, but it is a personal choice. Watch how the OP's situation turns out to see first hand here.

stevieturbo · 03-27-2017, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

If you vent to the atmosphere, you are allowing pressure to always be present when not at idle, light cruise, or deceleration. This causes piston rings to become unstable and "Ring Flutter" occurs. Also, your leaving most of the contaminates in the crankcase to accumulate VS evacuating them....engine life goes down substantially and the increased blow-by is never good. The OP has an issue with routing it appears and may not be running the E2-X Ultra (required for forced induction builds like this). So you can shorten engine life and increase blow-by by venting, or do it correctly. While we take the time to supply all technical data n all of this and detailed explanations, the "trolls" just say "do this". We feel your investment in your car and build is far to valuable to revert to technology from the 1960's and earlier, but it is a personal choice. Watch how the OP's situation turns out to see first hand here.

Show me a single engine where venting the crankcase to atmosphere has caused a problem, caused it to fail at unreasonable age/mileage or where it has hurt performance ?

It aint happening.

Unless you mean shorten it to 200...300..400k vs 210k...310...410k...

AGP Turbo · 03-27-2017, 01:11 PM

I knew what catch can you had just by reading the title. When in boost, those cans don't work right. Been down this road dozens of time with customers. With a forged piston V8 and FI, you need 3x the venting at WOT over what you have. Fixing a rear main seal is so much work, can ruin parts, ugh, get a can from MM.

03-25-2017, 05:25 PM	#1
SKI-LAXN Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: colorado Posts: 19	Rear main seal blew out I have a 2010 Camaro l99 that is not stock anymore bought it with motor blown and out of car. List of what's done Ls3 heads with dual springs Ls7 lifters Eagle rods Diamond pistons Tick stage 3 turbo cam Dyno tuned at 620 hp on pump gas Turbonetics turbo 13# of boost Spent some time driving with pcv to atmosphere. Put one catch can on and drove about 12 miles and she smoked really bad also noticed a leak. Vented back to atmosphere and no problems. Put a second catch can design on from elite and piped all hoses as per instructions drove 30 miles no smoke all good. On way home got into it with a corvette we were on them hard I blew out the rearmain seal. To much pressure or pre damage.

03-25-2017, 08:05 PM	#2
Trob85 Svt lol Drives: 2011 ss inferno orange blown Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Topeka Posts: 2,312	Had the same problem with a different brand of catch can went to the Mighty Mouse draft can with oil cap fitting haven't had a problem since and it has caught some nasty NASTY stuff since I run e85. As for your question it could be both I'm sure most of the damage was already done but if what you had couldn't completely evacuate the pressure it would just open old wounds. I'm sure someone will chime in against them but I know I had damage from the other setup as was skeptical about Mighty Mouse but it did great and held up until I was able to change it a few months ago. __________________ plasti dip is not a mod.......and a cold air intake doesn't make you fast!

03-26-2017, 12:27 AM	#3
Kiwi_Camaro_2010 Drives: Camaro 2SS/RS 2010 L99 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: New Zealand Posts: 173 View My Garage	These engines under boost need room to breath from bottom end, had same prob, now run a spring loaded valve breather that releases pressure under boost only, when normal driving normal PCV system is at work with catch can, this stopped my rear main seal pushing oil out. __________________ Camaro 2SS/RS 2010 / L99 / Whipple SC /Dynatech Headers & Catts (gutted), ID 850 injectors, ZL1 fuel pump +BAP & ADM pump controller, ZR1 3Bar MAP, Dual Elite Catch Cans, 91 octane ,Eibach sway bar kit , Driveshaft loop, oil cooler delete, ADM dual gauges (AFR/Boost) LC1 wideband controller, D/D, ARP stud kit ,Callies forged slayer crank 3.622", callies ultra rods, wiseco forged pistons, L99-LS3, rollmaster double row steel timing set & comps cam timing cover,blower cam 630/660 lift,3/8 pushrods, pac gear 8deg, yella terra ultra lites. LS9 head gaskets. Texas speed custom oil pump. Asm by me.

03-26-2017, 11:09 AM	#9
Trob85 Svt lol Drives: 2011 ss inferno orange blown Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Topeka Posts: 2,312	http://www.mightymousesolutions.com its worth a look. __________________ plasti dip is not a mod.......and a cold air intake doesn't make you fast!

03-26-2017, 04:56 AM	#4
stevieturbo Drives: it changes Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1,126	Either you are not installing it correctly, or it is crap. Vent to atmosphere is simple and reliable. What more could you ask for ? lol

03-26-2017, 09:05 AM	#6
SKI-LAXN Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: colorado Posts: 19	It is setup like that. Using those diagrams. Looking at it I could have blue and green backwards. I also used 1/2 inch hose from breather to turbo. Worked great until was very hard into it and rear main blew out.

03-26-2017, 09:06 AM	#7
SKI-LAXN Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: colorado Posts: 19	Sorry light blue hose to air filter

03-27-2017, 10:04 AM	#12
Elite Engineering Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Denver Posts: 1,382	If you vent to the atmosphere, you are allowing pressure to always be present when not at idle, light cruise, or deceleration. This causes piston rings to become unstable and "Ring Flutter" occurs. Also, your leaving most of the contaminates in the crankcase to accumulate VS evacuating them....engine life goes down substantially and the increased blow-by is never good. The OP has an issue with routing it appears and may not be running the E2-X Ultra (required for forced induction builds like this). So you can shorten engine life and increase blow-by by venting, or do it correctly. While we take the time to supply all technical data n all of this and detailed explanations, the "trolls" just say "do this". We feel your investment in your car and build is far to valuable to revert to technology from the 1960's and earlier, but it is a personal choice. Watch how the OP's situation turns out to see first hand here.

03-27-2017, 01:11 PM	#14
AGP Turbo Drives: All things Turbocharged Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: AZ Posts: 1,199	I knew what catch can you had just by reading the title. When in boost, those cans don't work right. Been down this road dozens of time with customers. With a forged piston V8 and FI, you need 3x the venting at WOT over what you have. Fixing a rear main seal is so much work, can ruin parts, ugh, get a can from MM.