[rcoe]

So over the winter I upgraded my front brakes to the 6 piston brakes off the GMPP website.

What pads am I going to want to run with these for my track days?

Last year I was running the PS track day pads and was pretty happy with their performance. Don't need anything crazy just something that will give some decent stopping power.

Fluid is already upgraded and these will only be used for track days.

[That1guy_tim]

Was going to say Hawk DTC-60's but i see you are procharged so you might want the extra bite of the 70's

[Christian1LE]

I've used the XP12, XP20, DTC 60's. Honestly the biggest difference is the amount of bite you will get at the beginning of your braking.

The XP20 doesnt slow down the car anymore than the XP12's. The DTC 60's have way more bite than both the XP20 and the XP12's. You really can't go wrong with any of the pads in my opinion. I hear the 60's are hard on the rotors but my XP12's ate through my rotors in 1 year of trackdays anyways so I can't imagine they will be much worse. I also never had any issues with pedal fade with any of the pads. And barring traffic I generally drive the car as hard as I can for the entire 25 minute session. I even did a 1 hour long session at VIR North with XP12's and never had any issues. I would take a look at getting some titanium shims though. If you're driving hard the heat will dry/crack your rubber piston boots.

[That1guy_tim]

Originally Posted by Christian1LE

I've used the XP12, XP20, DTC 60's. Honestly the biggest difference is the amount of bite you will get at the beginning of your braking.

The XP20 doesnt slow down the car anymore than the XP12's. The DTC 60's have way more bite than both the XP20 and the XP12's. You really can't go wrong with any of the pads in my opinion. I hear the 60's are hard on the rotors but my XP12's ate through my rotors in 1 year of trackdays anyways so I can't imagine they will be much worse. I also never had any issues with pedal fade with any of the pads. And barring traffic I generally drive the car as hard as I can for the entire 25 minute session. I even did a 1 hour long session at VIR North with XP12's and never had any issues. I would take a look at getting some titanium shims though. If you're driving hard the heat will dry/crack your rubber piston boots.

+1 on the titanium shims. Also look at getting the Caddie black wing brake "ducts" they are like 3x the size of the 1le

[rcoe]

I don't think I will be working them very hard, last year I got by fine on the stock SS brakes with the track day pads. Just noticed a little fade near the end of each session braking from 130 going into a hard left and even then it cleared up very fast.

I was thinking going to the larger brakes would give me a better margin of error going forward and getting a bit faster.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by rcoe

So over the winter I upgraded my front brakes to the 6 piston brakes off the GMPP website.

What pads am I going to want to run with these for my track days?

Last year I was running the PS track day pads and was pretty happy with their performance. Don't need anything crazy just something that will give some decent stopping power.

Fluid is already upgraded and these will only be used for track days.

Hawk DTC70 pads on the front and DTC60 Pads on the rear. Just mark them so that when you put them back on for a track day again they are in the same positions.

[5.M0NSTER]

Another vote for DTC60s. Lasted me 8 days total and about 8000 street miles. Rotors are well cracked but still over min thickness

[cvp33]

I ran Hawk DTC 70/60 for years, 12 at least. They are VERY hard on rotors, but I didn’t want to give up the initial bite and total lack of fade. I finally switched to g-loc after reading great reviews, especially around uncompromising stopping power that’s still rotor-friendly.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by cvp33

I ran Hawk DTC 70/60 for years, 12 at least. They are VERY hard on rotors, but I didn’t want to give up the initial bite and total lack of fade. I finally switched to g-loc after reading great reviews, especially around uncompromising stopping power that’s still rotor-friendly.

What G-LOC compound do you use that would be as good or BETTER than the DTC70/60 combo???

DO they dust LESS than the HAWKS???

DO you use them for daily driving as well????

THX

[5.M0NSTER]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

What G-LOC compound do you use that would be as good or BETTER than the DTC70/60 combo???

DO they dust LESS than the HAWKS???

DO you use them for daily driving as well????

THX

This. I used Carbotech/Glock before. XP8/10/12. 8 was weak, 10 left uneven deposits and I experienced fade, 12 felt good, but lasted 4 days. DTC for the win.

[cvp33]

R18 front, R10 rear. Lots of noise and dust, ‘bout the same as Hawk. The Hawks for me are rotor killers. Lots of heat checking/cracking even after cool down laps and cycling the pits after sessions.

[cvp33]

Sorry for the Mustang mentions on the Camaro forum………but brakes is brakes.

We did a lot of brake pad testing in our S197 Mustang over 5 seasons. We tried Hawk (HPS, HP+, and DTC copmpounds), Ferrodo, Porterfield, Carbotech and G-LOC.

Some of our earliest testing on our S197 was just autocrossing. At this 2011 ProSolo event we caught the Hawk HP+ pads on fire - well, at least they were throwing VERY bright sparks. Corner workers kept calling in that our car was on fire! This was IN A PARKING LOT.

So I would never recommend HPS/HP+ Hawks for track use, of course. We tried the HP+ on track with this car once, and some other cars numerous times, and it never worked well - if you can drive quickly. Slow people don't need to worry about their pads as much. :p

We went to the DTC track compounds and quickly realized those were not up to the capabilities of the Coyote powered Mustang at 3800 pounds with driver. We would see this "smearing" at high rotor temperatures, which some of the pads do when they get super hot. We also had multiple sets FALL APART at 1/2 pad depth, when changing between street and track pads. It sucks to see hundreds of dollars just fall on the floor... :(

We realized like many of you that brake cooling was helpful in extending pad life - and rotor life, hub life. This allowed us to push harder but we still went through a LOT of consumables on this car.

We were replacing pads after every 2 track events, and rotors didn't last much longer. Always seemed to be buying brake pads, rotors, and fluid. Sometimes I pushed the limits on pad life - this was getting out of hand.

We finally tested Carbotech pads, and had better results - they were lasting longer, and the car was getting faster. Started setting a lot of TT records soon after.

Stepping up to the larger GT500 rear brakes extended rear rotor life by 3 or 4 times. Pads were lasting 4+ weekends, double what the DTC Hawks would do. Sure, they cost a bit more, but the cost-per-lap was going down. Pagid and PFC lasted a hair longer, but they cost significantly more. We had found our best "bang per buck" pad in the Carbotech.

We had been using and even became a dealer for Carbotech for a number of years, but in February of 2016, Danny Puskar and his brother left that company - which were the only two folks at Carbotech we ever spoke to - and started G-LOC, down the road. We moved over to G-LOC and have seen even better quality and durability, with a slightly better price. This is the only pad I've run in the past 2 years (exception: Powerbrake BBKs), and our customers have also great success with G-LOC. G-LOC cleaned up at the SCCA and NASA Nationals - They seem to be on all of the podium cars and go deep into the field in most club level road racing.

For Mustang track folks we like to talk to them about their intended use, relative speed, tracks they see, and other mods on the car before recommending a pad compound package. We tend to stick with a few G-LOC compounds: track use is R12 front/R10 rear or R16 front/R12 Rear. Autocrossers are sent out with R6 for great cold bite, and very casual track day guys might get R8/R6. Street use is the GS-1. Endurance is the R14 (depending on weight of the car). The R18... its a compound we don't use much, and it isn't "in line" with the other compounds they make, but does have its uses.

So, in short: there are "cheaper" pads out there, and more expensive pads too. We've just found the best balance between price and lifespan - with 8 compounds to choose from - in G-LOC. And they don't seem to catch on fire. Talk to the dealer you trust the most, that might have relevant experience with your car and end use.

Cheers,

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by cvp33

Sorry for the Mustang mentions on the Camaro forum………but brakes is brakes.

We did a lot of brake pad testing in our S197 Mustang over 5 seasons. We tried Hawk (HPS, HP+, and DTC copmpounds), Ferrodo, Porterfield, Carbotech and G-LOC.

Some of our earliest testing on our S197 was just autocrossing. At this 2011 ProSolo event we caught the Hawk HP+ pads on fire - well, at least they were throwing VERY bright sparks. Corner workers kept calling in that our car was on fire! This was IN A PARKING LOT.

So I would never recommend HPS/HP+ Hawks for track use, of course. We tried the HP+ on track with this car once, and some other cars numerous times, and it never worked well - if you can drive quickly. Slow people don't need to worry about their pads as much. :p

We went to the DTC track compounds and quickly realized those were not up to the capabilities of the Coyote powered Mustang at 3800 pounds with driver. We would see this "smearing" at high rotor temperatures, which some of the pads do when they get super hot. We also had multiple sets FALL APART at 1/2 pad depth, when changing between street and track pads. It sucks to see hundreds of dollars just fall on the floor... :(

We realized like many of you that brake cooling was helpful in extending pad life - and rotor life, hub life. This allowed us to push harder but we still went through a LOT of consumables on this car.

We were replacing pads after every 2 track events, and rotors didn't last much longer. Always seemed to be buying brake pads, rotors, and fluid. Sometimes I pushed the limits on pad life - this was getting out of hand.

We finally tested Carbotech pads, and had better results - they were lasting longer, and the car was getting faster. Started setting a lot of TT records soon after.

Stepping up to the larger GT500 rear brakes extended rear rotor life by 3 or 4 times. Pads were lasting 4+ weekends, double what the DTC Hawks would do. Sure, they cost a bit more, but the cost-per-lap was going down. Pagid and PFC lasted a hair longer, but they cost significantly more. We had found our best "bang per buck" pad in the Carbotech.

We had been using and even became a dealer for Carbotech for a number of years, but in February of 2016, Danny Puskar and his brother left that company - which were the only two folks at Carbotech we ever spoke to - and started G-LOC, down the road. We moved over to G-LOC and have seen even better quality and durability, with a slightly better price. This is the only pad I've run in the past 2 years (exception: Powerbrake BBKs), and our customers have also great success with G-LOC. G-LOC cleaned up at the SCCA and NASA Nationals - They seem to be on all of the podium cars and go deep into the field in most club level road racing.

For Mustang track folks we like to talk to them about their intended use, relative speed, tracks they see, and other mods on the car before recommending a pad compound package. We tend to stick with a few G-LOC compounds: track use is R12 front/R10 rear or R16 front/R12 Rear. Autocrossers are sent out with R6 for great cold bite, and very casual track day guys might get R8/R6. Street use is the GS-1. Endurance is the R14 (depending on weight of the car). The R18... its a compound we don't use much, and it isn't "in line" with the other compounds they make, but does have its uses.

So, in short: there are "cheaper" pads out there, and more expensive pads too. We've just found the best balance between price and lifespan - with 8 compounds to choose from - in G-LOC. And they don't seem to catch on fire. Talk to the dealer you trust the most, that might have relevant experience with your car and end use.

Cheers,

Thanks for the detailed POST!!! Now where is the best place to buy R16/R12 pads at??? They are in your neck of the woods right???

[cvp33]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

Thanks for the detailed POST!!! Now where is the best place to buy R16/R12 pads at??? They are in your neck of the woods right???

Yes. Prices are locked in so unless one of their dealers has a coupon code, the price is the price no matter if you buy direct or through their dealer network.