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Old 01-23-2023, 01:18 PM   #1
Pollock
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Those of you with Kooks headers and X pipe..

Do you ball and sockets leak? I tried mating my headers to my factory exhaust. The connection pipes are on a slight angle which I assume makes my ball and socket leak. Like my factory exhaust needs squeezed together.

Will using their X pipe fix the issue?

Or would I be better off welding the ball and socket then add a V Band Clamp shortly after?
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Old 01-23-2023, 01:25 PM   #2
Z OH 6


 
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Use this and you will have no issues. This is what I've been using for almost 2 years without any issues and it doesn't setup and dry like concrete like other Permatex products. This dries flexible and can be easily removed if you ever need to separate the joints.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Last edited by Z OH 6; 01-23-2023 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 01-23-2023, 02:22 PM   #3
Spaceme1117

 
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Actually, use this sealant: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8033...ve%2C75&sr=1-2

Also, do not over tighten the ball and socket clamps as this will make them leak.

And make sure to re-torque the header flange bolts after a couple of heat cycles. I forgot to do this and I was getting an O2 sensor code.
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Old 01-23-2023, 08:27 PM   #4
Pollock
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Are we just putting this inside the ball and socket? Or both inside and underneath the clamp on outside of pipe?
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Old 01-24-2023, 12:13 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pollock View Post
Are we just putting this inside the ball and socket? Or both inside and underneath the clamp on outside of pipe?
I just make a bead around the socket part of the connecting pipes, then push them on the ball end of the headers and clamp them down. Wait 90 minutes for the adhesive to dry and you'll be leak free for years.
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Old 01-24-2023, 12:49 PM   #6
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I drove Kook's headers, green cats and ex-pipe for 2 - 1/2 years. I might have some photos of the connections
__________________
'20 ZL1 1LE A10,
OEM short block, LME heads/valve train, E2650.
100+ octanes, no eth, no meth, no N2O.
2/23 - 1031/1004 wheel.
4/23 - 1.41/9.61/145 at DA 7000 ft. (only made five passes).
2/24 - LME 390, E2650, FBO, 100 oct.; 1116hp/ 1063tq; 109 oct. dyno next.
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Old 01-24-2023, 02:29 PM   #7
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I made the mistake and went crazy tightening the clamps when I threw them on. Needless to say, I had leaks. Backed it off and it still leaked. Then read somewhere online that the clamps should only be tightened down to something like 20 ft lb. I was somewhere around whatever a impact gun going till the nut stopped spinning.



Bought some new clamps, installed them correctly and had no issues. I was going to go down the copper sealant route if needed, but I lucked out and didn't have to.
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Old 01-24-2023, 06:32 PM   #8
Pollock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZIROC View Post
I made the mistake and went crazy tightening the clamps when I threw them on. Needless to say, I had leaks. Backed it off and it still leaked. Then read somewhere online that the clamps should only be tightened down to something like 20 ft lb. I was somewhere around whatever a impact gun going till the nut stopped spinning.



Bought some new clamps, installed them correctly and had no issues. I was going to go down the copper sealant route if needed, but I lucked out and didn't have to.
Yes I used a torque wrench and did 20 ft lbs. Think directions said 20 to 25 ft lbs. For ball and socket clamp. 40 to 45 for the band clamp.
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Old 01-25-2023, 04:03 PM   #9
Pollock
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Recieved my sealer. Are we following directions? Says to apply. Let sit for 30 minutes. Then run engine for 10 minutes.

Would think it wouldn't hold...
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Old 01-25-2023, 04:32 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pollock View Post
Recieved my sealer. Are we following directions? Says to apply. Let sit for 30 minutes. Then run engine for 10 minutes.

Would think it wouldn't hold...
Which sealer did you use? The stuff I posted doesn't work like that. Sure hope you didn't buy that muffler and tail pipe sealer linked above because it hardens like cement, it's made for permanent sealing of parts that you don't want to be able to separate again. The product I linked works perfectly and is no problem to separate the parts should you ever have to.
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Old 01-25-2023, 04:47 PM   #11
Pollock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z OH 6 View Post
Which sealer did you use? The stuff I posted doesn't work like that. Sure hope you didn't buy that muffler and tail pipe sealer linked above because it hardens like cement, it's made for permanent sealing of parts that you don't want to be able to separate again. The product I linked works perfectly and is no problem to separate the parts should you ever have to.
Kooks said to buy what's in post #3. Not what you said. But I think I should try what you like.
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